Sarah Brodwall on fri 13 oct 06
Hello to all,
So, if I'm gonna post, I figure I'll go ahead and introduce myself.
My name is Sarah Brodwall, and I'm an American expat living in Norway.
I'm 30 years old and getting into pottery for the second time in my
life now. I rent 6 hours a week of workshop time at Liv i leire
(http://www.livileire.no/) in Gr=FCnerl=F8kka, Oslo, Norway. I'm most
interested in wheel throwing and Asian forms and glazes. -I- think I
am doing pretty well so far. When I can get the clay centered, at
least. You can see some of the stuff I made in my first six months at
http://brodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/ if you're interested.
Now, my question: Is this (small image at
http://brodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/chun-sm.jpg, different and
large, detailed image at
http://brodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/chun-lg.jpg) what a Chun glaze
is supposed to look like? (Crappy pot, I know, but it was just meant
as a glaze test.) I did this with Pottery Crafts' Chun Base and Basic
Chun glazes. The result doesn't look like anything I see when I
google "Chun glaze", that's for sure. I don't get much guidance in
the lab, so I'm really flying by the seat of my pants here. This does
seem to be a little like some of what's described in the archives, but
I want someone to look at my pot and give me guidance. :) What can I
do to make this glaze look better? Or is this just what I'm going to
get?
Also, is this kind of "look at my pot" post unwelcome here?
~Sarah
Janine Roubik on fri 13 oct 06
Hello Sarah,=0AMost Chun glazes I've seen have been in the light blue famil=
y. A few quick questions - Is "pottery crafts" a type of commercial glaze =
or do you have the recipe? Also, what cone are you firing to in what atmos=
phere? The more we know about the situation, the easier it is for us to gu=
ess : )=0AJanine=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Sarah Brodwall jbrodwall@GMAIL.COM>=0ATo: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0ASent: Friday, October=
13, 2006 4:07:04 AM=0ASubject: Introduction and Chun Glaze Question=0A=0A=
=0AHello to all,=0A=0ASo, if I'm gonna post, I figure I'll go ahead and int=
roduce myself.=0AMy name is Sarah Brodwall, and I'm an American expat livin=
g in Norway.=0AI'm 30 years old and getting into pottery for the second tim=
e in my=0Alife now. I rent 6 hours a week of workshop time at Liv i leire=
=0A(http://www.livileire.no/) in Gr=FCnerl=F8kka, Oslo, Norway. I'm most=
=0Ainterested in wheel throwing and Asian forms and glazes. -I- think I=0A=
am doing pretty well so far. When I can get the clay centered, at=0Aleast.=
You can see some of the stuff I made in my first six months at=0Ahttp://b=
rodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/ if you're interested.=0A=0ANow, my question:=
Is this (small image at=0Ahttp://brodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/chun-sm.jp=
g, different and=0Alarge, detailed image at=0Ahttp://brodwall.com/sarah/im=
ages/pots/chun-lg.jpg) what a Chun glaze=0Ais supposed to look like? (Crap=
py pot, I know, but it was just meant=0Aas a glaze test.) I did this with =
Pottery Crafts' Chun Base and Basic=0AChun glazes. The result doesn't look=
like anything I see when I=0Agoogle "Chun glaze", that's for sure. I don'=
t get much guidance in=0Athe lab, so I'm really flying by the seat of my pa=
nts here. This does=0Aseem to be a little like some of what's described in=
the archives, but=0AI want someone to look at my pot and give me guidance.=
:) What can I=0Ado to make this glaze look better? Or is this just what=
I'm going to=0Aget?=0A=0AAlso, is this kind of "look at my pot" post unwel=
come here?=0A=0A~Sarah=0A=0A_______________________________________________=
_______________________________=0ASend postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org=
=0A=0AYou may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription=
=0Asettings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/=0A=0AModerator of the lis=
t is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Des & Jan Howard on fri 13 oct 06
Sarah
Go to:
Look under "Oriental Mystery"
Now that is a Jun!!
Eat your heart out. I do every time I check it out.
His recipe using Norwegian potash feldspar is a good starting point.
Try Orton C10 1/2 - 11 Reduction.
Your Jun glaze appears to be over a iron glaze, usually a good combo.
In this case it appears to be a tad runny, the Jun effect does appear
where the glaze roll is quite thick.
A couple of clues here. Apply Jun glazes thicker than you would think
needed & try a slightly lower firing or a cooler spot in your usual
firing schedule.
If you can get UK commercial stoneware glazes in Norway see if
Derek Emms's Tagg's Yard Chun is still available.
Des
ps No! I don't live in a beanie, it's pronounced Looee.
Sarah Brodwall wrote:
> Now, my question: Is this (small image at
> http://brodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/chun-sm.jpg, different and
> large, detailed image at
> http://brodwall.com/sarah/images/pots/chun-lg.jpg) what a Chun glaze
> is supposed to look like? (Crappy pot, I know, but it was just meant
> as a glaze test.) I did this with Pottery Crafts' Chun Base and Basic
> Chun glazes. The result doesn't look like anything I see when I
> google "Chun glaze", that's for sure. I don't get much guidance in
> the lab, so I'm really flying by the seat of my pants here. This does
> seem to be a little like some of what's described in the archives, but
> I want someone to look at my pot and give me guidance. :) What can I
> do to make this glaze look better? Or is this just what I'm going to
> get?
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
Lee Love on fri 13 oct 06
The phosporus in the glaze makes tiny bubbles which makes the
properties of the glaze behave the way the sky gets its blue color.
The effect is called Rayleigh scattering. Read about it here:
http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/sky_blue.html
To get a good sky blue, you need to put the glaze on porcelain
or a white stoneware.
Here is an example I have always enjoyed from the Minneapolis Institute of art:
http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=2&id=5188
-- .____________________________________________________
| Lee Love ^/(o\| Practice
before theory. |
| Akitajin@hachiko.com |\o)/v - Sotetsu Yanagi - |
`~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~'
"All weaves one fabric; all things give
Power unto all things to work and live." - Goethe -
"When we all do better. We ALL do better." -Paul Wellstone
Sarah Brodwall on fri 13 oct 06
Hi, Janine and Des,
Eating my heart out now--that Chun (or is Jun the preferred spelling?)
is beautiful, and nothing like what I achieved.
Pottery crafts is a brand of glaze (listed toward the bottom of
http://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/content/index.asp?GroupID=3D113&CatID=3D0&ba=
nnerID=3D168§ion=3Dg.m).
This is one of the first times I have used powdered glaze -ever-,
actually. I have not mixed my own glaze from a recipe yet, but I'm
dying to do so because I love chemicals and lab glassware and that
kind of stuff. Nobody in the workshop where I rent space mixes their
own glazes. As suggested by the catalogue from which I bought the
glazes, I got really wild and added some CaCl2 as a flocculent. What
effects might that have had on the final result?
I have not been able to get any info from the workshop owner about
what cone the kiln fires at--she just says that we fire at 1250=B0. She
always glaze fires the kiln at 1250=B0, so I'm not going to have any
control over that, unfortunately. It's an electric kiln, but I don't
know what atmosphere. I'm a total newbie--it's so embarrassing not to
know this basic information! I understand that certain chemicals can
be added to glazes to change the temperatures at which they mature and
to adapt them to different firing cycles. Generally, am I going to be
able to use these chemicals to adapt powdered glazes and homemade
glaze recipes so that they work in my workshop's 1250=B0 kiln?
I can get Taggs Yard and Derek Emms glazes, so I'll give those a whirl.
~Sarah
On 10/13/06, Janine Roubik wrote:
> Most Chun glazes I've seen have been in the light blue family. A few qui=
ck questions - Is "pottery crafts" a type of commercial glaze or do you hav=
e the recipe? Also, what cone are you firing to in what atmosphere? The m=
ore we know about the situation, the easier it is for us to guess : )
On 10/13/06, Des & Jan Howard wrote:
>
> Look under "Oriental Mystery"
> Now that is a Jun!!
Bruce Girrell on fri 13 oct 06
Des Howard wrote:
> Apply Jun glazes thicker than you would think needed &
> try a slightly lower firing or a cooler spot in your usual
> firing schedule.
Thicker makes sense, but cooler? The glazes on the page that you cite were
fired to cone 14.(?)
Bruce "just wondering" Girrell
dwichman@frontiernet.net on fri 13 oct 06
Hi Sarah,
I looked at your pictures and really like the glaze on picture 488 - is
it a commercial glaze? Do you mind sharing what it is? I guess I
better ask what cone it is fired to? It looks as if it is red brown
where it edges on the speckled tan type clay.....
I don't know anything about Chun glazes and so can't answer you
there...... I enjoyed looking at these pieces, thanks for sharing....
Debi Wichman
Cookeville, TN
http://www.elementterra.com
Sarah Brodwall on fri 13 oct 06
On 10/13/06, Lee Love wrote:
> The phosporus in the glaze makes tiny bubbles which makes the
> properties of the glaze behave the way the sky gets its blue color.
> The effect is called Rayleigh scattering.
Ooooh! The glaze is blue for the same reason the sky is blue! That's
so cool! Which begs the question--can we use the Rayleigh effect with
bubbles to produce other colors in glazes?
Debi: The glaze on picture 488 is called "Ancient Red". It's a
commercial glaze by Imagine, ordered from the Potterycrafts catalogue.
The pot is made of a kind of clay called "Ironstone", also by
Potterycrafts. As for the cone, I don't know since I'm not the one
who fired it--the workshop owner says she fires things to 1250=B0.
~Sarah
Janine Roubik on fri 13 oct 06
Hello again Sarah,=0ALet's go over a few things - and forgive me if you kno=
w this stuff, I'm just going to try to make it easy to explain/understand..=
.anyone else feel free to chime in if my explanations are not that great : =
)=0ACommercial "pre-made" glazes are often difficult to add stuff to to alt=
er the color/maturation temp because you don't know exactly what's in them =
to begin with. I don't know if it's different in Europe or not, but you us=
ually can't get the recipes for commercial glazes/glays/slips here, because=
the manufacturers know that if you had that info you could probably mix it=
up at home for way way less than they charge you. Perhaps you can contact=
the Pottery Craft people (is there a telephone number on the jar or box?) =
and ask them why your test does not match the test chip in the catalouge yo=
u ordered from. But it might be a question of reduction/oxidation or firin=
g temp.=0AAn electric kiln is *usually* an oxidation/neutral atmosphere. F=
or ease of explanation let's say that the electric kiln is a big oven and j=
ust kind of bakes stuff as-is. It uses radiant heat (from the elements) to=
fire things, instead of burning a fuel. A reduction atmosphere is done in=
a kiln that uses a fuel (gas, oil, wood, etc..) to burn. Oxygen is needed=
to burn things, right? When a kiln is put into reduction there is not eno=
ugh oxygen to burn the fuel in the kiln chamber. So since this fuel really=
wants to burn, oxygen molecules are actually pulled from the claybody and =
glazes - causing major changes. For instance a Copper glaze in oxidation mi=
ght turn out blue or green, but in a reduction firing it could be the fabul=
ous bright copper red. A small amount of iron would be pukey brownish in o=
x., but could be blue (There's your chun) or green in reduction. Of course,=
there are many many factors to a glaze that effect the final outcome, but =
I'm just being real
general here. =0AI'm guessing your temp is Celsius so 1250 would be cone =
7? 8? See if that temp matches the glaze manuf. instructions.=0AAlso doubl=
e check if the amount of water you added to the dry glaze material was appr=
opriate.=0ACaCl2? I guess if you call the glaze company you can ask them w=
hy they suggested you add this to your glaze...I dunno...=0AWell good luck =
with everything. As Ms. Lili suggested once, check out your libraries and =
used book internet sites to get as many books as you possibly can and read =
read read. Some stuff may seem really difficult at first, but you'll get th=
e hang of it! : )=0ASave my address and feel free to contact me off list if=
you have anymore questions in the future.=0AWelcome to clay!=0AJanine =0A=
=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Sarah Brodwall COM>=0ATo: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0ASent: Friday, October 13, 2006 9:31:0=
3 AM=0ASubject: Re: Introduction and Chun Glaze Question=0A=0A=0AHi, Janine=
and Des,=0A=0AEating my heart out now--that Chun (or is Jun the preferred =
spelling?)=0Ais beautiful, and nothing like what I achieved.=0A=0APottery c=
rafts is a brand of glaze (listed toward the bottom of=0Ahttp://www.pottery=
crafts.co.uk/content/index.asp?GroupID=3D113&CatID=3D0&bannerID=3D168§i=
on=3Dg.m).=0A This is one of the first times I have used powdered glaze -=
ever-,=0Aactually. I have not mixed my own glaze from a recipe yet, but I'=
m=0Adying to do so because I love chemicals and lab glassware and that=0Aki=
nd of stuff. Nobody in the workshop where I rent space mixes their=0Aown g=
lazes. As suggested by the catalogue from which I bought the=0Aglazes, I g=
ot really wild and added some CaCl2 as a flocculent. What=0Aeffects might =
that have had on the final result?=0A=0AI have not been able to get any inf=
o from the workshop owner about=0Awhat cone the kiln fires at--she just say=
s that we fire at 1250=B0. She=0Aalways glaze fires the kiln at 1250=B0, s=
o I'm not going to have any=0Acontrol over that, unfortunately. It's an el=
ectric kiln, but I don't=0Aknow what atmosphere. I'm a total newbie--it's =
so embarrassing not to=0Aknow this basic information! I understand that ce=
rtain chemicals can=0Abe added to glazes to change the temperatures at whic=
h they mature and=0Ato adapt them to different firing cycles. Generally, a=
m I going to be=0Aable to use these chemicals to adapt powdered glazes and =
homemade=0Aglaze recipes so that they work in my workshop's 1250=B0 kiln?=
=0A=0AI can get Taggs Yard and Derek Emms glazes, so I'll give those a whir=
l.=0A=0A~Sarah
Sarah Brodwall on sat 14 oct 06
On 10/13/06, Janine Roubik wrote:
> Let's go over a few things - and forgive me if you know this stuff, I'm j=
ust going to try to make it easy to explain/understand...
Very easy to understand--thank you! My knowledge about ceramics is
incredibly patchy because I'm basically teaching myself via books,
magazines, 'net resources, etc. It looks like this list is going to
be a great way to fill out my knowledge...not in the least by offering
me information that I never would have sought out myself (Toast racks!
Who knew? :=DE).
Good to know about the difficulties in adding ingredients to pre-made
glazes. That makes perfect sense. If that's the case, I figure I may
as well throw myself into mixing my own glazes pretty soon, control
freak that I am. Perhaps I was just looking for an excuse!
Anyway, thanks again. I really appreciate the time you took to
explain things so clearly.
~Sarah
Des & Jan Howard on sat 14 oct 06
Bruce
Wonder no more!
The recipe of Fry's made with my materials/kiln/cycle prefers Orton C10
1/2 - 11.
The referred glazed pot of Sarah's needs the Jun to be thicker & cooler,
(though this prolly won't do much for her underneath iron glaze).
I think D.Fry's figures are rubbery anyway, he is a tad full of himself.
Luv the glazes 'tennyrate.
Des
Bruce Girrell wrote:
>Des Howard wrote:
>
>
>>Apply Jun glazes thicker than you would think needed &
>>try a slightly lower firing or a cooler spot in your usual
>>firing schedule.
>>
>>
>
>
>Thicker makes sense, but cooler? The glazes on the page that you cite were
>fired to cone 14.(?)
>
>
>Bruce "just wondering" Girrell
>
>
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
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