Jared Stutesman on sat 28 oct 06
Here are some pictures from my first firing with glazes from Mastering
Cone 6 Glazes.
http://www.angelfire.com/planet/stutesmanpottery/mc6g_test_fire/
From the book i used Bright Sky Blue, Waterfall Brown, and licorice. The
other glazes are Floating Blue and Deep Purple(you can find the recipes on
this forum).
Overall im pleased with how things came out. My Bright Sky Blue came
out looking more like the Powder Blue, anyone have an idea why? I'm
wondering if its the rutile. I had a choice of light or dark and wasnt
sure which to pick so i went with the light.
I used what i thought was a thin coat of the Waterfall brown but i think
ill go even thinner in the future. I put the Waterfall Brown on pretty
thick in a few places hoping to grow some crystals but i got some pretty
nasty bubbles and blisters instead.
Im kinda new to all this and this forum has been a huge help to me so far.
I can thank you all enough.
sacredclay on sun 29 oct 06
My Powder Blue came out a cold off white color. In asking others
aroundme, I've learned two things. One, the materials could have
been mined from a differnt place than what the authors had used. the
second-the tap water you use can affect out the glaze will turn out
because of the minerrals in it. This is where I learned that using
distilled water bought in grocery stores and such like are the best
to use. sometimes you have to play around with the colorants ,
increasing or decreasing. It's more fun to experiment that way
anyway. I think the authors will have better answers than me. Good
luck! Kathryn in NC where the goblins are about--- In
clayart@yahoogroups.com, Jared Stutesman wrote:
>
> Here are some pictures from my first firing with glazes from
Mastering
> Cone 6 Glazes.
>
> http://www.angelfire.com/planet/stutesmanpottery/mc6g_test_fire/
>
> From the book i used Bright Sky Blue, Waterfall Brown, and
licorice. The
> other glazes are Floating Blue and Deep Purple(you can find the
recipes on
> this forum).
> Overall im pleased with how things came out. My Bright Sky Blue
came
> out looking more like the Powder Blue, anyone have an idea why? I'm
> wondering if its the rutile. I had a choice of light or dark and
wasnt
> sure which to pick so i went with the light.
> I used what i thought was a thin coat of the Waterfall brown but
i think
> ill go even thinner in the future. I put the Waterfall Brown on
pretty
> thick in a few places hoping to grow some crystals but i got some
pretty
> nasty bubbles and blisters instead.
>
> Im kinda new to all this and this forum has been a huge help to me
so far.
> I can thank you all enough.
>
>
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Fred Parker on sun 29 oct 06
Hi Jared:
Thought I'd offer a couple of suggestions re MC6G glazes. The greater
part of what I know about glazes came from Ron and John's book. It's a
great resource.
I am a big fan of Bright Sky Blue, but it seems to be happier with some
variation in thickness. Thicker, it tends to be a very fresh sky blue.
Thinner, like Variagated Blue, it drifts somewhat toward browns. This is
a very good trait when it comes to breaks over texture, but if you apply
too thinly it can turn out very different from what you expected. If I
spray, I make it a point to avoid absolutely even coats in favor of
variation. Thicker at the top and thinner at the bottom always leaves
room for some glaze movement. If the right amounts are applied, it won't
blob at the bottom.
"Firing down" is extremely important for Waterfall Brown. Maybe for
Bright Sky Blue also, but I don't think it's quite as important as it is
for WB. In case you don't know, "firing down" means controlling (slowing)
the cooling rate of your kiln through certain critical temperature
ranges. I believe a procedure is shown in the book's appendix. If not,
see John's website (www.frogpondpottery.com). This allows the magic
things to happen in the glaze, and it also might do something for the
bubbling you mentioned. Like Bright Sky Blue, I'd apply WB thicker at the
top so it can move a little. This is part of what makes it so
interesting. If it's too thin it will be more homogeneous and less
interesting.
Go back to the book and reread the sections describing the glazes you use
AFTER EACH FIRING. You will be amazed at how much pertinent info you will
pick up once you have actual firing experience under your belt --
especially info re application guidelines.
My first firing of Variagated Blue came out brown, with small areas of
blue where it puddled. I was very disappointed at first, and even added
another 0.5% of cobalt. Then I realized it was all in my too-thin
application and even firing. Once I got with the program on those two
points, the improvement was amazing!
One other "non-MC6G" item: Although I have never used it I have read
that "Floating Blue" demands firing only to cone 5, followed by an
immediate kiln shutdown and natural cooling -- no "firing down." Others
with experience with that glaze can be more specific, but from what I have
heard, firing it to cone 6 and giving it a slow cool is a guarantee for
disaster. I believe the term used by those who have done it is "snot
green."
Best regards,
Fred Parker
On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 16:01:08 -0400, Jared Stutesman
wrote:
>Here are some pictures from my first firing with glazes from Mastering
>Cone 6 Glazes.
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/planet/stutesmanpottery/mc6g_test_fire/
>
>From the book i used Bright Sky Blue, Waterfall Brown, and licorice. The
>other glazes are Floating Blue and Deep Purple(you can find the recipes on
>this forum).
> Overall im pleased with how things came out. My Bright Sky Blue came
>out looking more like the Powder Blue, anyone have an idea why? I'm
>wondering if its the rutile. I had a choice of light or dark and wasnt
>sure which to pick so i went with the light.
> I used what i thought was a thin coat of the Waterfall brown but i think
>ill go even thinner in the future...
Alisa Liskin Clausen on tue 31 oct 06
On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 16:01:08 -0400, Jared Stutesman
wrote:
>Here are some pictures from my first firing with glazes from Mastering
>Cone 6 Glazes.
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/planet/stutesmanpottery/mc6g_test_fire/
>
> Dear Jared,
What is your firing schedule? I think some of the glazes appear to be
very fluid, especially where they are making drips at the base of some of
the mugs. I found the schedule in the book to be too much heat for my
kiln and altered it. I use MC6G with good results, just with a different
firing schedule than John and Ron's. The pots look otherwise fine and I
am glad to see your work and glazes.
Best regards, Alisa in Denmark
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