Hilltop Pottery on tue 31 oct 06
Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to work
at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
destroyer!
Nancy
Barbara Lewis on tue 31 oct 06
Hi Nancy: I used the Rustoleum epoxy floor paint with the sprinkles. These
"sprinkles" serve to give some traction. This paint isn't cheap, but it is
extremely durable. Periodically my floor gets flooded with salt water from
the creek with no signs of wear or chipping. I would highly recommend this
product. Barbara
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hilltop Pottery"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:49 AM
Subject: Painting the studio floor
> Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to work
> at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
> concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
> walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
> it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
> destroyer!
>
> Nancy
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
WJ Seidl on tue 31 oct 06
Nancy:
Painting your floor will not make it much easier on your mops. To do that,
you will have to remove anything rough on the surface. You can do that with
an angle grinder, if you're of a mind. That said, it will make it easier
for you to mop, since the paint will fill in a lot of the smaller rough
areas, and the mop will slide easier across a painted surface (less
friction). Just a small distinction, I know.
For paint, we did our carport (where I had my setup for years) with a paint
available at Home Depot. The name of the paint is "BEHR One part epoxy
acrylic Concrete and Garage Floor Paint". It is remarkably long-lasting, as
it is an epoxy, and cleans with a garden hose. This stuff is permanent. No
changing your mind later . Available in a wide range of colors too, and
not all that expensive. Be sure the surface of the concrete is well-cleaned
and completely dry first, and use the primer sold for the paint (same brand,
located next to it on the shelf). While long lasting and easy to clean, the
paint doesn't much like to let go of grease ground into the surface. I put
a coat on two years ago, then just this year pressure washed it and coated
it again to make it "pretty" at the request of DP with a nudge from our
realtor.
Hope that helps,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Hilltop Pottery
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:50 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Painting the studio floor
Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to work
at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
destroyer!
Nancy
Charan Sachar on tue 31 oct 06
Hi Nancy,
I painted my concrete floors one and half years back with Behr's one-part
epoxy paint. Make sure you follow all the steps of etching the surface
with acid, clean it well and then apply the paint. Then let it dry for at
least 1 week to 10 days... it might look dry but could be soft.
My floors still look great with no wear or chipping. And they are a breeze
to clean. I use a soaking mop to clean up all the dry clay/glaze on the
floor. Then move all the nasty water with a big sqeezee to one area and
just pick that up with a big sponge.
You can see the process I went through to finish my floors. Go to my
website www.creativewithclay.com -> Studio Tour -> Studio floor.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Charan
www.creativewithclay.com
Federal Way, WA
On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 00:49:34 -0500, Hilltop Pottery
wrote:
>Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to work
>at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
>concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
>walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
>it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
>destroyer!
>
>Nancy
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on tue 31 oct 06
> Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to
> work
> at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
> concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
> walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
> it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
> destroyer!
>
> Nancy
I used deck paint on my concrete floor. It really helped with
mopping, and a lot of the crud didn't get imbedded in the first
place, the way it used to. I used grey, but if you use a nice color
it ought to hold up for a few years.
Lynn
Lynn Goodman
Fine Porcelain Pottery
Cell 347-526-9805
www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
Reynolds, Phil on wed 1 nov 06
I want to start by saying I don't have a studio at home (YET) but I just =
bought
my wheel this week and so I will have one soon. Since you have a =
concrete floor
I will tell you what my teacher says he does. He bought a Wet/Dry Vac =
and
mounted it on the wall. He then uses a pressurized weed sprayer and =
fills it
will water and sprays his work area after every session and then sucks =
it up
with the Wet/Dry vacuum. Just thought I would let you know.
Phil Reynolds
-----Original Message-----
From: Hilltop Pottery [mailto:nbraches@HILLTOPPOTTERY.COM]=20
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:50 PM
Subject: Painting the studio floor
Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to work
at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
destroyer!
Nancy
The information transmitted (including attachments) is
covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act,
18 U.S.C. 2510-2521, is intended only for the person(s) or
entity/entities to which it is addressed and may contain
confidential and/or privileged material. Any review,
retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking
of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons
or entities other than the intended recipient(s) is prohibited.
If you received this in error, please contact the sender and
delete the material from any computer.
=0D
Carl Finch on thu 2 nov 06
At 09:49 PM 10/30/2006, Hilltop Pottery wrote:
>Does anyone paint their concrete studio floors? A studio I used to work
>at several years ago painted their floor with some type of high gloss
>concrete paint. While it made cleaning a breeze, you wouldn't want to
>walk around if water and clay spilled on it. I'm thinking it may make
>it easier on my mops if I painted the floor as the concrete is a mop
>destroyer!
Here is a detailed description of 2-part epoxy application posted (not by
me) to the alt.home.repair news group in February, 2004:
===========from alt.home.repair==============
I've lurked and learned from this newsgroup so want to give back by relaying
my experience and tips after epoxying my garage floor.
I epoxied my garage floor with Benjamin Moore's Industrial Maintenance
Coatings, 2-part epoxy, M36/M39 Polyamide Epoxy Gloss Coating .
The results were spectacular in terms of finish and I have had no hot-tire
lifting at all. Most dirt just sweeps off. Oils just come up with a paper
towel. This is impressive given that I had a previous 'paint' (supposedly
some new type of epoxy) done by a contractor. Not only did it lift under
car tires, it lifted under a bicycle tire!
Here is what I did and learned.
1. Prep is critical, as all the brochures say. While my prior coating came
up easily in some places, it did not in others. I ended up renting a Hilti
hand-held grinder-vac at Sunbelt Rental and grinding the entire floor. It's
a hands-and-knees job, and time consuming, but it took me down to bare
concrete and also removed some of the bumps and splotches from a lousy
concrete job. Wear knee pads and ear protection. I actually used the small
foam ear plugs underneath a noise-attenuating headset. And wear eye
protection because of the concrete dust thrown by the grinder.
My hope for your sake is that you don't have any prior paint and don't
have to go through a similar grinding step.
2. Then I washed with TSP and rinsed several times.
3. Then came the muriatic acid etch. It's not as scary as you'd think;
just follow the directions.
But here's a TIP for an issue that I've not seen described anywhere.
Move all iron and steel things out of the garage. If you can't do that wrap
them in plastic. Even the fumes of the muriatic acid makes steel rust very
badly. Tools I had hanging on the wall were covered with rust the following
day.
The second part of the wash with muriatic acid is to neutralize it with
a solution of baking soda. For the concentration mixtures of the acid and
baking soda solution follow instructions provided with the muriatic acid, or
seek someone with experience in a paint store.
3. Then let it dry several days. Use the trick of taping a piece of
plastic over a couple square feet of floor overnight. If it's completely
dry in the morning the floor is probably dry enough. (If water never ceases
to appear under the plastic you've got a water source coming up through the
concrete. If so, paint or epoxy are not going to work, so hang it up.)
4. Then I thought the floor was sufficiently prepared as I was down to bare
concrete everywhere. I was wrong. The test of adequately clean concrete is
to put a drop of water on the surface. It should quickly spread out and be
absorbed. In my several tests I did the water drops penetrated instantly.
A day later I buy the epoxy (which I had tinted). I got home and did the
water drop test again for no reason other than that it made me feel great to
see the water drops instantly penetrate the concrete, given the horrible
condition of the floor I started with. I tapped a few drops on and suddenly
one of them just sat there on the surface. Panic! I then proceeded to get
on my hands and knees and do the droplet test every couple of inches over
the entire garage floor. More places where it didn't absorb, and I put
pieces of sticky notes in each location. When I was done the sticky notes
mapped out areas corresponding almost exactly to where the car tires rest.
In those places water did not absorb. This was shocking because not only
did the concrete look like knew I had ground off the surface with the
grinder. It appears that the petroleum products that are either in the
tires or are picked up from the roads are then pressed onto the concrete and
absorbed. I subsequently did research and read in places that oils and
paints may penetrate to as deep as 3/4 inch in some circumstances.
So I ground those places deeper with little effect but I wasn't about to
grind 3/4 of an inch because then I'd have to patch with concrete, and if I
did that I'd have to wait about 90 days (as I recall) for curing before
applying the epoxy. Finally, not knowing what else to try, I got some
garage floor degreaser at Home Depot and treated those tire areas several
times, as per the label, scrubbing, rinsing well, etc. After several
degreasing cycles the water drops would absorb somewhat in those areas. Not
as well as in all the non-tire areas, but much better than before. For
example, a drop might appear to sit there for 2 seconds, then slowly spread
out and be absorbed. Believing I couldn't improve it further and not really
having any alternatives, I moved on.
[But before doing so, I did another muriatic acid etch (with a higher
concentration) and a baking soda rinse in those areas I had degreased. Then
I waited a few days again for it to dry.]
5. Now time to epoxy. As I said, I used Benjamin Moore's M36+M39. The
paint store may give you 'local wisdom', or experience, or vague guesses.
If you want to double check, Benjamin Moore has corporate technical support
people whom you can call about these products. As it turns out, the owner
of my local Benjamin Moore store had a lot of experience with the product
and was a good source, whereas his employees were not.
You need to know that 2 coats are really recommended to give a good finish.
You may not find this out if you don't talk to the right people, so here's
another tip. As it turns out, the pigment particles in colored epoxies are
larger than the solvent molecules. Epoxy is a strong finish because it
penetrates the crevices (which were caused by the muriatic acid etch) and
when it hardens it 'hooks' into the crevices, which is why it adheres so
well and doesn't lift. But if the penetration into the crevices is impeded,
the epoxy doesn't grab as well so is more likely to lift off. And the
pigment impedes the penetration.
So the officially recommended course is to use a pigment-free first coat.
However, 2 color coats are necessary to give a good finish, so know you'd be
talking about 3 applications (one 'primer' and two color coats) which means
more work and expense.
TIP: You can save one coat by skipping the 'primer' coat and thinning the
1st color coat with epoxy thinner (xylene). [Benjamin Moore sells epoxy
thinner as M95, but I'm pretty sure it's nothing more than straight xylene.]
This is what the owner of the Benjamin Moore store told me. I called the
B/M tech support line and they wouldn't recommend it and said the proper
procedure was the separate 'primer' coat. I went back to the B/M store and
talked to the owner who said that new federal regulations to control
volatile organic compounds (VOCs) don't allow B/M to endorse thinning with
xylene, but that doing so would work just as well as a separate 'primer'
coat. Then I called tech support who admitted they couldn't say much
because of the VOC regulations. So I asked: "If I had come to you before
the VOC regulations and had said that I wanted to thin the first pigmented
coat with xylene and asked you if that would be just as good as using a
separate primer coat would you have said yes?" He said that he would have
said yes. So I got my answer and he remained legal.
My recollection is that I thinned with 1 quart of epoxy thinner (xylene) for
each 2 gallons of epoxy (1 gal of M36 + 1 gal of M39), but I suggest you
check with your paint store.
6. The first application. The obvious means of applying it is rolling it
on, however you can also squeegee it on, which is what I did. The advantage
of using a squeegee is that if you have pits and holes in the concrete
surface you can more nearly fill those with the squeegee than with a roller.
It's fairly easy, but with a fairly smooth concrete surface a roller would
be faster.
Another tip: There is a range of recommended thickness for each coat,
but how do you know you're applying to that thickness and not too thin, or
too thick (which would have the added risk of running out)? I basically
marked out areas along one wall with sticky notes every 4 feet, and along a
perpendicular wall every 5 feet, allowing me to estimate 5'x4' sections, or
20 sq ft. I don't remember the recommended coverage for the 2 mixed
gallons, but let's say for example it should cover 600 square feet. So I
have 2 gallons, or 256 ounces to cover 30 20-sq.ft. sections. So, if I
apply 8 ounces per 4'x5' section I'd use 240 ounces, with just 16 ounces
left over -- pretty close to the exact recommended coverage. (I
intentionally neglected to account for 32 ounces of thinner in the first
coat, as I didn't know if it would add exactly that much volume, and I
wanted to be conservative so I didn't run out.) Anyway, you get the idea.
Do the math to your particular situation.
Then I scooped 8 ounces in a glass cup and drizzled it around each 4'x5'
section and then squeegeed it to cover. (Or in the case of the 2nd coat,
rolled it to cover.) Use a glass cup because xylene eats through plastic.
7. Second coat. It should be ready for a second coat the next day. I
waited until the 2nd day for the second coat. This one I rolled on. I did
not add particulate matter to create an anti-skid surface. I live in the
south where snow and ice are not an issue. Slight wetness hasn't caused a
problem, thought I can see that if you had standing water with smooth-soled
shoes it might be. The downside of sand or some other anti-skid material is
the high points will show wear sooner as the epoxy is abraided from the
points of the sand.
That's it. Wake up the morning after your second coat and go be stunned by
your great garage floor.
Now I feel like I've given something back. I hope this helps someone.
============end============
--Carl
in Medford, Oregon
Larry Kruzan on thu 27 may 10
Hi Gang,
My kids and wife are taking advantage of the time I'm out of commission to
spruce up Lost Creek Pottery for dear ole Dad. One thing we are not too
certain about is what kind of paint to use on the studio floor. Most of the
rest of the building has ceramic tile but I'm not doing that in the studio.
I have looked at several floor paints including oil base, latex and epoxy
paints. Of those I'm torn between the rustoleum garage epoxy paint and the
Sherwin Williams Industrial Epoxy floor paint. I wonder if any of you have
tried these and how have they held up for you.
In the way of a small update - my surgery is scheduled for June 25th. Thank=
s
to all for the kind notes, cards and emails. Clayarters are the best people=
.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
(Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.15080)
http://www.pctools.com/
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
James Freeman on fri 28 may 10
Larry...
I used the Rustoleum epoxy paint in both my studio and my old chicken
coop / goat palace. It has held up remarkably well in both
applications.
In the studio, the floor is never slippery, and spills wipe up with
ease. It is not showing any wear at all. My studio is in what used
to be a barn. I did NOT clean nor prep the floor other than sweeping
it very well and blowing the years of crud out of the saw cuts with
compressed air. There was not much oil spotting on the concrete, but
the Rustoleum covered what little there was just fine. Before
painting the floor I filled the saw cuts and the point where two slabs
met with Quikrete crack filler, a liquid that comes in quart squeeze
bottles. One caveat: Don't use the Rustoleum paint over green
concrete. In one area, where the slab had only cured for a couple of
months, moisture beaded up through the slab and caused the uncured
paint to bubble and peel.
The floor of the chicken coop survived about five years of chicken
poop, goat pee, and all the rest of the foulness associated with
animals, with no sign of deterioration. It then survived repeated
power washings, scrubbings with various harsh cleaners, and flooding
with gallons of bleach to remove every last molecule of animal ooze.
Good luck with both the project and the surgery.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 1:48 AM, Larry Kruzan wr=
ote:
> Hi Gang,
>
>
>
> My kids and wife are taking advantage of the time I'm out of commission t=
o
> spruce up Lost Creek Pottery for dear ole Dad. One thing we are not too
> certain about is what kind of paint to use on the studio floor. Most of t=
he
> rest of the building has ceramic tile but I'm not doing that in the studi=
o.
>
>
>
> I have looked at several floor paints including oil base, latex and epoxy
> paints. Of those I'm torn between the rustoleum garage epoxy paint and th=
e
> Sherwin Williams Industrial Epoxy floor paint. I wonder if any of you hav=
e
> tried these and how have they held up for you.
>
>
>
> In the way of a small update - my surgery is scheduled for June 25th. Tha=
nks
> to all for the kind notes, cards and emails. Clayarters are the best peop=
le.
>
>
>
> Larry Kruzan
>
> Lost Creek Pottery
>
> www.lostcreekpottery.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.15080)
> http://www.pctools.com/
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Snail Scott on sat 29 may 10
On May 28, 2010, at 12:48 AM, Larry Kruzan wrote:
> ...One thing we are not too
> certain about is what kind of paint to use on the studio floor...I
> have looked at several floor paints including oil base, latex and
> epoxy
> paints...
What's there now, and in what condition?
The durability of any paint is heavily affected by
the substrate and its condition/prep.
When we were given permission to finally rip the
carpet (!) out of the sculpture studio where I teach,
we were given a budget that allowed us to rent a
floor grinder to get the carpet adhesive up. We were
diligent, perhaps too much so, because we wore
out the grinding disc before we were fully finished
and the budget didn't stretch to buying another, so
the later sections still showed traces of adhesive.
In spite of that, the epoxy paint we applied (a real
two-part variety, not the bogus 'one-part epoxy')
has held up very well for three years of moderate
student use. We aren't a big enough program to
really test its limits in that time, but it seems to have
been worth the higher price, especially since the
hidden cost is our labor in having to re-do it someday.
That said, I still prefer plain uncoated concrete in
my own studio. I find the absorbency useful.
-Snail
phil on sun 30 may 10
Another variation is simply to polish the Concrete...and maybe apply a
Sealer to prevent any stains thereafter.
Good traction, easy to sweep or mop...looks really nice...nothing to go
wrong once in use ( unless one really blew the Sealer step somehow ).
Too, any high grade Industrial Oil Base Enamel Paint will work very well on
rightly prepared Concrete, and be durable enough for any reasonable use
short of dragging heavy sharp things over it all the time, or Breaking
Rocks all day on it with a Sledge Hammer..
Untill the advent of the 'epoxies', those are what would have been used,
and, Historically, they held up very well in all kinds of Commercial or
Manufacturing or Warehouse situations, where, about the worst that could
happen over time, is that high traction areas would wear thin...which,
generally, was or is a whole lotta 'who cares'?
I myself would not elect any of the 'Epoxy' or other sophisticated
Paint-like things for a Workshop Floor or Garage Floor or other.
I would just do a good prep, do whatever is needed for the Concrete surface
to be smooth and nice ( just as for any other sort of thing one was
intending to Paint, as if one cared ) , and, either Paint it with a good
Industrial Enamel, or, Polish and Seal it.
Phil
Lv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
> On May 28, 2010, at 12:48 AM, Larry Kruzan wrote:
>> ...One thing we are not too
>> certain about is what kind of paint to use on the studio floor...I
>> have looked at several floor paints including oil base, latex and
>> epoxy
>> paints...
>
>
> What's there now, and in what condition?
>
> The durability of any paint is heavily affected by
> the substrate and its condition/prep.
>
> When we were given permission to finally rip the
> carpet (!) out of the sculpture studio where I teach,
> we were given a budget that allowed us to rent a
> floor grinder to get the carpet adhesive up. We were
> diligent, perhaps too much so, because we wore
> out the grinding disc before we were fully finished
> and the budget didn't stretch to buying another, so
> the later sections still showed traces of adhesive.
> In spite of that, the epoxy paint we applied (a real
> two-part variety, not the bogus 'one-part epoxy')
> has held up very well for three years of moderate
> student use. We aren't a big enough program to
> really test its limits in that time, but it seems to have
> been worth the higher price, especially since the
> hidden cost is our labor in having to re-do it someday.
>
> That said, I still prefer plain uncoated concrete in
> my own studio. I find the absorbency useful.
>
> -Snail
---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2906 - Release Date: 05/30/10
02:21:00
| |
|
