Gay Judson on sun 5 nov 06
ox. and 24 colorant tests
HI, Alisa!
You are incredible--all those tests! I have trouble getting 2 or 3 done and
you've done 2 dozen on one whack!
I am a little confused. The base recipe is in 'parts' which Brian explains
well on his web site. And I am assuming that you are also using parts, not
grams, in your reports for the variations. But the record for #13, tenmoku,
says 10 parts RIO, that seems extreme! That would be more than twice the
frit or china clay. On Brian's site it suggests adding 1 part RIO for
tenmoku. So I wonder if the 10 was a typo? I would love to get a tenmoku
type glaze at mid-fire, so am eager to try out your suggestion.
I really appreciate the work you do and so generously share!
Gay Judson in San Antonio, TX
brian on mon 6 nov 06
ox. and 24 colorant tests
On 5/11/06 Gay wrote ....
>HI, Alisa!
>You are incredible--all those tests! I have trouble getting 2 or 3 done and
>you've done 2 dozen on one whack!
Yes Gay........it is overwhelming.....that is my reliable glaze she
is talking about and I have never done so many additions.....just to
repeat her page
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/alisapots/albums
I depend on ceramic stains a lot and get very colourful results
especially when overlaying the Iron oxide base. when adding stains
and oxides i always revert to percentages
with regard to adding iron oxide into that base I find that up to 14% is fine.
Another factor is that it is a "good natured" glaze that does not
depend on a precise firing tempoerature.
My preference is to use a white clay.....this further enhances colour response.
Readers might like to reference the basic glaze page
http://www.gartside.info/briansbasicglaze.htm
Also I have to mention that I use local NZ and Australian materials
that might vary a bit from the American kaolin, feldpsar, talc etc.
(frit 4108 is called 3134 in the USA for instance )
thanks to Alisa for all the work
Brian
--
Brian Gartside
main site http://www.gartside.info
sales/store http://gartsidesignz.com
Pukekohe, New Zealand
Alisa Liskin Clausen on mon 6 nov 06
ox. and 24 colorant tests
>I am a little confused. The base recipe is in 'parts' which Brian
explains
>well on his web site. And I am assuming that you are also using parts,
not
>grams, in your reports for the variations. But the record for #13,
tenmoku,
>says 10 parts RIO, that seems extreme!
Hi Gay
Please be careful to note that the recipe is in parts,
and the coloring oxides are in grams.
After the recipe on the tests, it also says that all oxides are measured
in grams, thus percent of 100 batches. 10 RIO is the same as 10% RIO to a
100 gram batch, which all of the tests are, always. In this case as well,
the 10 RIO, and all of the amounts of added colorants, are in grams.
The Tenmoku is a fine example of a cone 6 Tenmoku.
If you are making 2 tests, you can make 25 fairly easily. The key is to
keep it systematic. One base, 25 cups, coloring oxides and a pen and
paper.
Fill your cups with 100 grams.
Label the cups from 1 to 25.
Say cup #1 is going to have 2 Cobalt Oxide added.
Add the oxide
Record it as #1 2 Cobalt Oxide
and so on.
Do not loose the piece of paper you recorded all of your cup numbers.
You can, of course record your oxides on the cup and tile, but usually it
is too much writing and can be confusing after the firing if you write
like I do, quickly. Also glaze can run over and hide your writing.
Your cup has the #1 on it.
When all of the tests are mixed and sieved, begin to dip the tiles.
As you go along, write, for example, #1 on your test tile, dip.
Write #2 on your test tile, dip.
Should go pretty smoothly without any mistakes.
After the firing, look at each test tile and compare to your notes.
Write with something waterproof, the oxide on the tile. Now you have 25
tiles to look at and compare.
Hope this helps,
Regards from Alisa in Denmark
Gay Judson on mon 6 nov 06
ox. and 24 colorant tests
On Mon, 6 Nov 2006 03:09:34 -0500, Alisa Liskin Clausen
wrote:
>Please be careful to note that the recipe is in parts,
>and the coloring oxides are in grams.
>After the recipe on the tests, it also says that all oxides are measured
>in grams, thus percent of 100 batches. 10 RIO is the same as 10% RIO to a
>100 gram batch, which all of the tests are, always. In this case as well,
>the 10 RIO, and all of the amounts of added colorants, are in grams.
Thanks for the clarification, Alisa, I did not notice in the instructions
that the oxides were in grams. Careless reading on my part.
And I appreciate the tutorial on making the many tests on one base glaze.
You do make it sound easy--at least easier!
Now off to the glaze kitchen! Gay
Donna Kat on tue 7 nov 06
ox. and 24 colorant tests
On Mon, 6 Nov 2006 03:09:34 -0500, Alisa Liskin Clausen
wrote:
>>I am a little confused. The base recipe is in 'parts' which Brian
>explains
>>well on his web site. And I am assuming that you are also using parts,
>not
>>grams, in your reports for the variations. But the record for #13,
>tenmoku,
>>says 10 parts RIO, that seems extreme!
>
>Hi Gay
>
>Please be careful to note that the recipe is in parts,
>and the coloring oxides are in grams.
>
>
>After the recipe on the tests, it also says that all oxides are measured
>in grams, thus percent of 100 batches. 10 RIO is the same as 10% RIO to a
>100 gram batch, which all of the tests are, always. In this case as well,
>the 10 RIO, and all of the amounts of added colorants, are in grams.
>
>The Tenmoku is a fine example of a cone 6 Tenmoku.
>
>If you are making 2 tests, you can make 25 fairly easily. The key is to
>keep it systematic. One base, 25 cups, coloring oxides and a pen and
>paper.
>
>Fill your cups with 100 grams.
Is that 100 grams dry weight or after you have added the water. I'm
assuming dry weight but I just want to make sure. If so, how do you make
sure that the dry ingredients are entirely mixed?
Thanks and thanks again for the work.
Donna
Alisa Liskin Clausen on wed 8 nov 06
ox. and 24 colorant tests
On Tue, 7 Nov 2006 15:44:20 -0500, Donna Kat wrote:
>>Fill your cups with 100 grams.
>
>Is that 100 grams dry weight or after you have added the water. I'm
>assuming dry weight but I just want to make sure. If so, how do you make
>sure that the dry ingredients are entirely mixed?
>
>Thanks and thanks again for the work.
>
>Donna
>
Dear Donna
In most cases, for no other reason than easing calculation, recipes in all
forms will add up to 100.
Brian adds water as one of the parts of his otherwise, part recipe.
However, most recipes in grams are dry weight.
Water is added depending on the slurry one desires.
Beginners making test should use the disappearing tests when adding
materials. You tare weight your scale with the addition of every
ingredient. As you add each ingredient, say 10 Whiting, you go to next,
zeroing your scale. Always add each material directly over the last, in a
hill up against the glass' side. If you forget what you have done, you have
a chance to see if there is a color difference in the material added from
the last, so that you know you have not repeated the last material.
As you increase your skills, it is best to put a little water in the base of
the cup, and add each material. It is harder to remove materials with this
method, but it does increase the ease of mixing your materials later.
As far as all ingredients well mixed, with 100 grams, that is easy as well.
Mix well with a brush or spoon, making sure you scrape the sides and hit the
bottom.
Sieve each test afterwards.
Good luck
Alisa in Denmark
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