john elder on mon 20 nov 06
Hello all,
This week I need to cast the plugs for the side stoke holes for the anagama
here at Shorter College.
I have the castable and the stainless steel needles to mix with it. I have
the metal handles to put into the castable.
I was thinking of putting a plastic bag in the port and supporting it from
the inside and then raming the castable into the bag and around the handle.
NOW, anyone out there have advice or a better idea, please share it.
Thanks,
j. elder
Rome, ga
_________________________________________________________________
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Taylor Hendrix on tue 21 nov 06
How about casting the plugs in plastic containers such as whip cream
containers, something with a sufficient taper. Once it is set up use
the plug plus container when forming the port. The little thickness of
the plastic should help with wiggle room, yes? Thickness of plug and
depth of seat should be easy to work out, no?
Just some late night thunking.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
Andy Misner on tue 21 nov 06
You probably won't be happy with the results. The plastic will leave ridges
in the final casting. What we do is use sheetmetal turn it into the shape of
a cone and then cast it that way. Basicly anything you can use to make a
separation will work.
Andy
www.indfirebrick.com
On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:22:52 -0600, john elder wrote:
>Hello all,
>This week I need to cast the plugs for the side stoke holes for the anagama
>here at Shorter College.
>I have the castable and the stainless steel needles to mix with it. I have
>the metal handles to put into the castable.
>I was thinking of putting a plastic bag in the port and supporting it from
>the inside and then raming the castable into the bag and around the handle.
>NOW, anyone out there have advice or a better idea, please share it.
>
>Thanks,
>j. elder
>Rome, ga
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Buy, Load, Play. The new Sympatico / MSN Music Store works seamlessly with
>Windows Media Player. Just Click PLAY.
>http://musicstore.sympatico.msn.ca/content/viewer.aspx?cid=SMS_Sept192006
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
W J Seidl on tue 21 nov 06
John:
How much shrinkage do you expect from that castable? :>)
Best
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of john elder
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 3:23 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: casting side ports
Hello all,
This week I need to cast the plugs for the side stoke holes for the anagama
here at Shorter College.
I have the castable and the stainless steel needles to mix with it. I have
the metal handles to put into the castable.
I was thinking of putting a plastic bag in the port and supporting it from
the inside and then raming the castable into the bag and around the handle.
NOW, anyone out there have advice or a better idea, please share it.
Thanks,
j. elder
Rome, ga
andrew casto on tue 21 nov 06
John,
If you cast the plugs in place, make sure that you also add some sort of
removable spacer between your plastic and the kiln. The castable likely
will not shrink at all when it sets, and you may end up having the plugs
stuck in kiln. I cast part of the door on my wood kiln the same way you are
suggesting. I thought the castable would shrink some when it set. This was
a big mistake. I had to cut the forms out with a 10" reciprocating saw
blade, a masonry bit, and a sledge hammer. It took me nearly 2 days to do,
and though still functional, the door parts that I had cast were in pretty
bad shape when I finally got them out.
I would suggest building wooden forms that are the proper size and casting
the plugs away from the kiln. It is much easier to do some minor sanding
(with mask of course) to help the plugs fit after the fact than to go
through the above senario.
Andy
www.redbridgepottery.com
---------------------------------
Sponsored Link
Rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Loan for $1399/mo - Calculate new house payment
m.mshelomi on tue 21 nov 06
Great advise!
Have,on more than one occasion, thought that something would work. Found,
after patting myself on the back on a job well done, that my thoughts and
assumptions were wrong.
Nothing like a mistake to make a lesson stick...
Even if the set up takes longer, it takes less time than having to do
something again or 'just' fix it!
pottermim
----- Original Message -----
From: "andrew casto"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: casting side ports
> John,
>
> If you cast the plugs in place, make sure that you also add some sort of
> removable spacer between your plastic and the kiln. The castable likely
> will not shrink at all when it sets, and you may end up having the plugs
> stuck in kiln. I cast part of the door on my wood kiln the same way you
> are
> suggesting. I thought the castable would shrink some when it set. This was
> a big mistake. I had to cut the forms out with a 10" reciprocating saw
> blade, a masonry bit, and a sledge hammer. It took me nearly 2 days to do,
> and though still functional, the door parts that I had cast were in pretty
> bad shape when I finally got them out.
>
> I would suggest building wooden forms that are the proper size and casting
> the plugs away from the kiln. It is much easier to do some minor sanding
> (with mask of course) to help the plugs fit after the fact than to go
> through the above senario.
>
> Andy
>
> www.redbridgepottery.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sponsored Link
>
> Rates near 39yr lows. $420,000 Loan for $1399/mo - Calculate new house
> payment
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Lee Love on wed 22 nov 06
On 11/22/06, andrew casto wrote:
> John,
>
> If you cast the plugs in place, make sure that you also add some sort of
> removable spacer between your plastic and the kiln. The castable likely
> will not shrink at all when it sets, and you may end up having the plugs
> stuck in kiln. I cast part of the door on my wood kiln the same way you are
> suggesting.
John, I have been thinking about casting the top part of my door
that meets the arch. Can you tell me how you would cast your door
parts if you did it again? What was your castable?
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
"When we all do better. We ALL do better." -Paul Wellstone
Michael Wendt on wed 22 nov 06
Depending on the size of the side ports,
consider casting them with a plastic
bucket of appropriate size.
I would spray the bucket with
oil inside and cast the plug
complete with a pull handle.
Then I would leave it in the
bucket and form up the port
tightly to the top and bottom
of the oil coated bucket and
cast the outer part of the port.
If you size the cast dimensionally
to fit so many rows and stacks
of brick, you can simply replace
that number of bricks with the cast
port.
Since plastic buckets have a taper,
the plug will pull out when you
want but seal tightly when
you need it to.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 22 nov 06
I missed the beginnings of this thread, but...
Why not throw them?
The only Kiln I had made to date ( was in 1994) ,
I threw the top syubby Chimney, and figuring I'd
also use it for smelting, I threw some quart sized
'thick-walled' Crucibles also.
The Clay mixture I used for these was like
throwing wet Concrete, but once I had it stiff
enough moisture-wise, it was do-able, and the
thrown elements turned out excellent and behaved
well.
Phil
el v
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