Mary Adams on sat 25 nov 06
I did a search and found some info back and forth and the promise of a list of do's and don't and single-firers. But, I couldn't find those end results.
I work in Cone 5 and have some really nice glazes that I can rely on when bisquing. I'm just really curious about trying single fire. I would use the usual clays that I use. One is a hearty porcelain (Hagi Porcelain from Laguna) and the other is a brownish stoneware (Moroccan Sand from Laguna). The glazes I currently use on those two favorite clays have a good high percentage of clays.
Should I let them get bone-dry? How do you finish off and clean up the rims? Any other tips would be appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
Mary
Donna Kat on sun 26 nov 06
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 07:47:39 -0800, Mary Adams wrote:
>I did a search and found some info back and forth and the promise of a list
of do's and don't and single-firers. But, I couldn't find those end results.
>
>I work in Cone 5 and have some really nice glazes that I can rely on when
bisquing. I'm just really curious about trying single fire. I would use
the usual clays that I use. One is a hearty porcelain (Hagi Porcelain from
Laguna) and the other is a brownish stoneware (Moroccan Sand from Laguna).
The glazes I currently use on those two favorite clays have a good high
percentage of clays.
>
>Should I let them get bone-dry? How do you finish off and clean up the
rims? Any other tips would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>Mary
>
There should be recent posts on this subject because I just started doing it
and have atleast one thread in here on the subject.
The pots that I glazed bone dry came out the same as if I had bisque fired
(actually floating blue was a bit thin and crawls just a tiny bit but it was
still very nice). Of course I played with all of my glazes on leather hard
and then used the glazes that seemed to work best on the bone dry pieces so
there is a confound in my design. I was surprised to find Toby's Red
working on both leather hard and bone dry. I had added ~ 3% bentonite to
all of my glazes though. The MC6 glazes I have (bone, spearment, liner
clear) worked easily on both. I believe the main problem I had was that the
lips of my pieces were probably drier than the rest of the piece when I was
glazing leather hard and this is where the glaze cracked and fell off.
I read "A potter's guide to raw glazing and oil firing" by Dennis Parks and
will be reading Fran Tristram's "Single Firing" when I get it. Park's book
seemed to contradict itself. I will be re-reading it to see what I
misunderstood now that I have actually done enough to know what I need to know.
I made a bunch of tiny bowls off the hump to use for testing. I think small
pieces were more forgiving and easier to work with. It also meant there was
not a lot of investment in what I was doing. It really was fun to play with
these. All of my tests were done on these small little test bowls except for
the bone dry pieces and those were on the small size as well (tea bowl size).
I fired a slow bisqued, followed by a user programmed cone 6 glaze. I would
drop the top temp next time because cone 6 was more flat than I intended.
seg Rate Temp Hold
1 350 2000
2 150 2180 30
3 500 1900
5 125 1400 30
The slow bisque finished at 1819 and took 12.73 hrs - total firing time was
20 hrs
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/pottery-single-firing is a group devoted
to this subject - it is not very active but is useful. I found
rec.crafts.pottery very useful. There should still be some active posts
there as well. I would be really happy to have a co-learner.
Donna
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