Taylor Hendrix on mon 4 dec 06
Howdy everybodies, gift-givers and non-givers alike,
For those of you who make some of your own tools, I have some questions for you.
I've had the design for some nice homemade banding wheels rattling
around in my head for quite some time but I'm having difficulty.
Every time I try to find black pipe or galvanized pipe nipples for the
shafts, I am thwarted by the ridge on the inside surface of the pipe
(from the manufacturing process). My design is a pipe inside a pipe
design and this ridge causes all kinds of problems. Is there other
pipe that would work? These are going to be heavy duty wheels I think,
so using thick walled copper pipe won't work will it? I'm also
thinking pre threaded nipples to cut out expensive machining.
Don't even suggest those pvc pipe turntables. These are going have
weight and take weight (bearing or marble bearing I think).
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
Patrick Cross on mon 4 dec 06
Taylor are you talking about the ridge that's just on the ends of the
pipe?...because that can be easily reamed off. Or do you mean the seam that
often runs the length of the pipe (on the inside)? If you're getting your
pipe at a place like Lowe's or Home Depot...they usually have a pipe
threading machine right there in that section of the store...and they should
be able to ream that edge off for you in two shakes...or you could knock it
back with a Dremel.
Here's a completely different idea for banding wheel... Check out the local
Salvation Army...Good Will etc. for old office chairs. Some of them have
really nice 4 or 5 leg aluminum bases and very solid bearings. Just remove
everything that looks like "chair" and flip them over....you can mount a
flat plywood disc to the base where the casters/feet use to be. A lot of
thrift stores get furniture that no body would want...you might find a free
score in their reject pile...and save them the disposal fee. Every body
wins.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/4/06, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
>
> Howdy everybodies, gift-givers and non-givers alike,
>
> For those of you who make some of your own tools, I have some questions
> for you.
>
> I've had the design for some nice homemade banding wheels rattling
> around in my head for quite some time but I'm having difficulty.
>
> Every time I try to find black pipe or galvanized pipe nipples for the
> shafts, I am thwarted by the ridge on the inside surface of the pipe
> (from the manufacturing process). My design is a pipe inside a pipe
> design and this ridge causes all kinds of problems. Is there other
> pipe that would work? These are going to be heavy duty wheels I think,
> so using thick walled copper pipe won't work will it? I'm also
> thinking pre threaded nipples to cut out expensive machining.
>
> Don't even suggest those pvc pipe turntables. These are going have
> weight and take weight (bearing or marble bearing I think).
> --
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Snail Scott on tue 5 dec 06
At 01:57 PM 12/4/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>I've had the design for some nice homemade banding wheels...I am thwarted
by the ridge on the inside surface of the pipe
>(from the manufacturing process). My design is a pipe inside a pipe
>design and this ridge causes all kinds of problems...
Most steel tubing is, as Taylor mentioned,
rolled and welded leaving a raised seam inside.
I also once had a design in mind requiring
'nested' tubing, and discovered that for about
triple the price, seamless tubing can be had
in sizes designed to be tightly nested.
For my project, since the overlap was only a
few inches, I went with the cheap seamed stuff
and just ground out the seam with a pneumatic
die grinder. The feasability of this is clearly
correlated to the depth of the overlap and
the length of the die grinder's business end,
however. It might not be sufficient to give
good stable support to Taylor's Badass Bubba
Banding Wheel.
I used square tubing for my project (not for
banding wheels!), and cannot recall whether
round seamless tubing was also available, but
it's surely worth a call to a nearby steel
supplier.
-Snail
Erik Harmon on tue 5 dec 06
I made a banding wheel from a large PVC end cap and the biggest lazy susan mechanism I could find, bolt those together and then srew on an old plywood batt. I can stand on it and it still turns beautifully. Actually the more weight on it the smoother it turns.
Erik
Patrick Cross wrote:
Taylor are you talking about the ridge that's just on the ends of the
pipe?...because that can be easily reamed off. Or do you mean the seam that
often runs the length of the pipe (on the inside)? If you're getting your
pipe at a place like Lowe's or Home Depot...they usually have a pipe
threading machine right there in that section of the store...and they should
be able to ream that edge off for you in two shakes...or you could knock it
back with a Dremel.
Here's a completely different idea for banding wheel... Check out the local
Salvation Army...Good Will etc. for old office chairs. Some of them have
really nice 4 or 5 leg aluminum bases and very solid bearings. Just remove
everything that looks like "chair" and flip them over....you can mount a
flat plywood disc to the base where the casters/feet use to be. A lot of
thrift stores get furniture that no body would want...you might find a free
score in their reject pile...and save them the disposal fee. Every body
wins.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/4/06, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
>
> Howdy everybodies, gift-givers and non-givers alike,
>
> For those of you who make some of your own tools, I have some questions
> for you.
>
> I've had the design for some nice homemade banding wheels rattling
> around in my head for quite some time but I'm having difficulty.
>
> Every time I try to find black pipe or galvanized pipe nipples for the
> shafts, I am thwarted by the ridge on the inside surface of the pipe
> (from the manufacturing process). My design is a pipe inside a pipe
> design and this ridge causes all kinds of problems. Is there other
> pipe that would work? These are going to be heavy duty wheels I think,
> so using thick walled copper pipe won't work will it? I'm also
> thinking pre threaded nipples to cut out expensive machining.
>
> Don't even suggest those pvc pipe turntables. These are going have
> weight and take weight (bearing or marble bearing I think).
> --
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Patrick Cross on tue 5 dec 06
In regards to grinding the seam away there is a skinny bit extension made by
Irwin that's about 10" long...usually it's somewhere on the same shelf as
the Speedbore bits. With that and a small grinding burr or stone You could
reach through the nipple from both ends. Sounds to me like a crappy task
but if that's what it takes?
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/5/06, Snail Scott wrote:
>
> At 01:57 PM 12/4/2006 -0600, you wrote:
> >I've had the design for some nice homemade banding wheels...I am thwarted
> by the ridge on the inside surface of the pipe
> >(from the manufacturing process). My design is a pipe inside a pipe
> >design and this ridge causes all kinds of problems...
>
>
> Most steel tubing is, as Taylor mentioned,
> rolled and welded leaving a raised seam inside.
> I also once had a design in mind requiring
> 'nested' tubing, and discovered that for about
> triple the price, seamless tubing can be had
> in sizes designed to be tightly nested.
>
> For my project, since the overlap was only a
> few inches, I went with the cheap seamed stuff
> and just ground out the seam with a pneumatic
> die grinder. The feasability of this is clearly
> correlated to the depth of the overlap and
> the length of the die grinder's business end,
> however. It might not be sufficient to give
> good stable support to Taylor's Badass Bubba
> Banding Wheel.
>
> I used square tubing for my project (not for
> banding wheels!), and cannot recall whether
> round seamless tubing was also available, but
> it's surely worth a call to a nearby steel
> supplier.
>
> -Snail
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 5 dec 06
I missed the start of this thread...but...glancing
at some of the design ideas mentioned...
I think a fine, simple, nicely turning low
friction one oculd be easily made onj the
principle of the Korean Potter's Wheel...
Where, a 'pipe' does slip over somehting just a
little smaller, or a pipe is fitted with an
internal coller, for 'that' to make the desired
clearance over something smaller...
And the inside topmost part is a hardened Steel
disc with a dimple or conical depression, sitting
simply 'on' the point of the inner-thing around
which the pipe is placed.
This keeps it all centered with virtaully no
slop...has very low friction, and would be a cheap
low-tech thing to make.
Really, a quite wide outer pipe, and a suitable
collar for it's bottom to go around a quite 'thin;
central stem, would be ideal for kinetic momentum
and for stability overall...
Just-a-thought...
Otherwise, really, even a plain smaller size
Bicycle Wheel, with it's axel set firmly into some
holder...and with a disc or head fitted to it's
otherwise rim over the spokes, would work
wonderfully...
Phil
el v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Cross"
> In regards to grinding the seam away there is a
skinny bit extension made by
> Irwin that's about 10" long...usually it's
somewhere on the same shelf as
> the Speedbore bits. With that and a small
grinding burr or stone You could
> reach through the nipple from both ends. Sounds
to me like a crappy task
> but if that's what it takes?
>
> Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 6 dec 06
Hi Megan, Steve,
Oh, Lol...that was what I meant...or, where
applicable,
since Bicycle Wheels come in a range of sizes from
the rather small 'first' Bike for Children, or
even rear Wheels from a Tricycle, through
full adult size ones...
A really stout Banding Wheel could be made from
the front Wheel Spindle and Hub and or Brake Drum
Hub combo, from some Atomobile or Truck...
Really, an old style 'stand up' Kick Wheel seems
the ideal Banding Wheel to me.
Hands-free, instant forward and reverse, free
standing, sturdy, infinite speed ( well, within
reason) and already the right height.
Best wishes,
Happy Banding...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Megan Mason"
> How about a smaller wheel, like a child's bike
or a hand pulled golf cart
> or kid's wagon, think outside the box,lol?
>
> Good luck.
> Meg
>
> In a message dated 12/6/2006 3:07:23 P.M.
Eastern Standard Time,
> claystevslat@YAHOO.COM writes:
>
> Phil --
>
> The problem with a bike wheel is, of course,
finding
> space in your studio to store and use a 27"
> banding wheel ... though for a cheap source of
> a smooth-running ball-bearing mounted axle, a
discarded
> bike wheel is a great idea.
>
> -- Steve S
David Woof on wed 6 dec 06
A salvaged water pump from an automotive engine is a ready made recycle for
making banding wheels. the base is "pre-drilled" for mounting to a bench or
heavier base material and the top where the pulley and or fan blades were
attached is also holes ready for a bolt on wheel head of plywood etc.
I centered and welded an engine flywheel to one for a super heavy duty big
pot/sculpture model. It's base is a 16" steel auto wheel sans tire. Rear
brake drums make good bases also. Bolt holes already exist in these as
well.
David
_________________________________
_________________________________
David Woof Studio
Clarkdale, Arizona
Ph. 928-821-3747 Fax. 866-881-3461
________________________________
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claystevslat on wed 6 dec 06
Phil --
The problem with a bike wheel is, of course, finding
space in your studio to store and use a 27"
banding wheel ... though for a cheap source of
a smooth-running ball-bearing mounted axle, a discarded
bike wheel is a great idea.
-- Steve S
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, pdp1@... wrote:
>
> I missed the start of this thread...but...glancing
> at some of the design ideas mentioned...
Megan Mason on wed 6 dec 06
How about a smaller wheel, like a child's bike or a hand pulled golf cart
or kid's wagon, think outside the box,lol?
Good luck.
Meg
In a message dated 12/6/2006 3:07:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
claystevslat@YAHOO.COM writes:
Phil --
The problem with a bike wheel is, of course, finding
space in your studio to store and use a 27"
banding wheel ... though for a cheap source of
a smooth-running ball-bearing mounted axle, a discarded
bike wheel is a great idea.
-- Steve S
Steve Mills on sat 9 dec 06
My best banding wheel is made from the lay-shaft from a stand-alone spin
dryer.
Steve
Bath
UK
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Megan Mason [mailto:LPfan33rpm@AOL.COM]
> Sent: 06 December 2006 9:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Making banding wheels
>
> How about a smaller wheel, like a child's bike or a hand pulled golf
> cart
> or kid's wagon, think outside the box,lol?
>
> Good luck.
> Meg
Craig Clark on sun 10 dec 06
Really simple construction: Two round bats of the desired size and one
lazy susan, of an adequate size, between them.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Steve Mills wrote:
> My best banding wheel is made from the lay-shaft from a stand-alone spin
> dryer.
>
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Megan Mason [mailto:LPfan33rpm@AOL.COM]
>> Sent: 06 December 2006 9:19 PM
>> Subject: Re: Making banding wheels
>>
>> How about a smaller wheel, like a child's bike or a hand pulled golf
>> cart
>> or kid's wagon, think outside the box,lol?
>>
>> Good luck.
>> Meg
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
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