Patrick Cross on wed 6 dec 06
Sounds like a nice table design. I had a thought about the pour. If you
used something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander...(maybe without the sandpaper
on it)...and ran around the perimeter of the frame and under the
table several times directly after pouring in the plaster, I bet that would
be a good way to level it and make any trapped air bubbles rise out of the
surface. Y'know by vibrating the heck out of it.
(Apologies for the long and complicated sentence.)
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/6/06, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Susan,
>
> My wedging table is built from 2X6 lumber. It has steel pipe legs, and
> rubber feet.
>
> The tables outside dimensions are 36 inches long by 27 inches wide. I
> basically built a box, then I screwed a 1X2 in. strip all the way around
> on the inside of the box. I turned the box over upside down so the 1x2
> strip was at the "Top" of the box. Then I put the box on a very smooth
> flat heavy duty table, sealed the wood to the table on the outside of
> the box with oil clay. Next I filled the box completely with plaster.
> When the plaster had reached modulus - or begun to gel a bit and lose
> it's fluidity, I used a very wide sheet rock mud spreader to smooth the
> surface. I fastened additional 2X6 squares at each corner and mounted 2
> inch galvanized pipe flanges. I had black iron pipe cut to give me a 34
> inch height when installed. The pipes were threaded on on one end, and
> that end screwed into the pipe flange. A rubber end cap was placed over
> the end of the pipe to act as a foot to protect the floor.
>
> You can have the legs cut to suit your working height. The table is
> heavy, and you will need help in turning it over right
> side up.
>
> I am sending pictures by separate mail that show the table clearly, the
> construction, the pipe legs, the galvanized flange installation and the
> rubber foot. I regret, but the pictures are large, and my main computer
> isout of service right now, so I cannot reduce the images. But you can
> see how this all goes together.
>
> If anyone wants pictures, p-mail me off list.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
>
> Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
> > A few years back someone posted a design for a small, freestanding
> wedging
> > table.
> >
> > If any of you out there in clayart land happen to have one that they
> have
> > built, I would appreciate your emailing me with the plans.
> >
> > Many thanks!
> > Susan
> > Annandale, VA
> > artpottery616@aol.com
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Susan Fox Hirschmann on wed 6 dec 06
A few years back someone posted a design for a small, freestanding wedging
table.
If any of you out there in clayart land happen to have one that they have
built, I would appreciate your emailing me with the plans.
Many thanks!
Susan
Annandale, VA
artpottery616@aol.com
John Rodgers on wed 6 dec 06
Susan,
My wedging table is built from 2X6 lumber. It has steel pipe legs, and
rubber feet.
The tables outside dimensions are 36 inches long by 27 inches wide. I
basically built a box, then I screwed a 1X2 in. strip all the way around
on the inside of the box. I turned the box over upside down so the 1x2
strip was at the "Top" of the box. Then I put the box on a very smooth
flat heavy duty table, sealed the wood to the table on the outside of
the box with oil clay. Next I filled the box completely with plaster.
When the plaster had reached modulus - or begun to gel a bit and lose
it's fluidity, I used a very wide sheet rock mud spreader to smooth the
surface. I fastened additional 2X6 squares at each corner and mounted 2
inch galvanized pipe flanges. I had black iron pipe cut to give me a 34
inch height when installed. The pipes were threaded on on one end, and
that end screwed into the pipe flange. A rubber end cap was placed over
the end of the pipe to act as a foot to protect the floor.
You can have the legs cut to suit your working height. The table is
heavy, and you will need help in turning it over right
side up.
I am sending pictures by separate mail that show the table clearly, the
construction, the pipe legs, the galvanized flange installation and the
rubber foot. I regret, but the pictures are large, and my main computer
isout of service right now, so I cannot reduce the images. But you can
see how this all goes together.
If anyone wants pictures, p-mail me off list.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
> A few years back someone posted a design for a small, freestanding wedging
> table.
>
> If any of you out there in clayart land happen to have one that they have
> built, I would appreciate your emailing me with the plans.
>
> Many thanks!
> Susan
> Annandale, VA
> artpottery616@aol.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Donna Kat on thu 7 dec 06
On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 14:45:04 EST, Susan Fox Hirschmann
wrote:
>A few years back someone posted a design for a small, freestanding wedging
>table.
>
>If any of you out there in clayart land happen to have one that they have
>built, I would appreciate your emailing me with the plans.
>
>Many thanks!
>Susan
>Annandale, VA
>artpottery616@aol.com
I don't have a drawing but my table is fairly simple and straight forward.
The legs are made with 8 2X4s. Each leg is 2 of the boards forming a 'L'.
The lenght needs to be the heigth that you want the top of the table to be
MINUS ~3". The outside of the very bottom of the legs is enclosed by a 2X6s
frame. So 4 2X6s make a rectangle - from the ground up measures 6".
Another 2X6 box goes on the top of the legs but the legs do not go all the
way to the top. Instead they are about 3" below the top edge. So when you
drop the 'floor' into the top box it sits on the top of the legs. The floor
of the wedging board is simply plywood cut to the inner dimension of the
rectangle. Before you pour your plaster stuff clay (or caulk) in the space
left between the floor and the sides of the 2X6 frame.
For years I and everyone I know has stirred the plaster as it was added to
the water. I found out when I read the plaster home page that this is NOT
the way to do it. I found it very difficult to let the plaster sit in the
water without stirring as per instructions but I did and was amazed at how
it actually gave me a much larger window to work with.
http://www.plastermaster.com/usg/
Susan Fox Hirschmann on thu 7 dec 06
Thanks so much to all of you that sent me your wedging table designs.
Tis much appreciated.
Clayart people are definitely the BEST!
Regards,
Susan
Annandale, VA
Snail Scott on fri 8 dec 06
At 09:33 PM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>...If you
>used something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander...(maybe without the sandpaper
>on it)...and ran around the perimeter of the frame and under the
>table several times directly after pouring in the plaster, I bet that would
>be a good way to level it and make any trapped air bubbles rise out of the
>surface.
I lke this idea - might be worth a try.
Don't run the sander without paper, though.
The soft rubber pad on the face will wear
out very quickly, even on smooth wood. You
don't have to use sandpaper, though -
regular paper will protect the pad without
abrasion.
-Snail
Erik Harmon on fri 8 dec 06
Me and My mallett are envious of your idea. Erik
Snail Scott wrote: At 09:33 PM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>...If you
>used something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander...(maybe without the sandpaper
>on it)...and ran around the perimeter of the frame and under the
>table several times directly after pouring in the plaster, I bet that would
>be a good way to level it and make any trapped air bubbles rise out of the
>surface.
I lke this idea - might be worth a try.
Don't run the sander without paper, though.
The soft rubber pad on the face will wear
out very quickly, even on smooth wood. You
don't have to use sandpaper, though -
regular paper will protect the pad without
abrasion.
-Snail
______________________________________________________________________________
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You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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Patrick Cross on fri 8 dec 06
Yeah...yeah. Do that. I knew right after I hit send that I had given some
bad advice...running the sander naked. I didn't think to say, just use
plain paper if you didn't want to actually sand (doh)...makes perfect
sense. Seems to me the oldest cheapest...crappiest sander would be best for
this job. I mean the whole point is to get major vibration and a high
quality sander would just be too well machined.
Another thought I had was...what if the sander had a probe attached to the
platen? Then that could be inserted into the wet plaster in several
locations.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/8/06, Snail Scott wrote:
>
> At 09:33 PM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
> >...If you
> >used something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander...(maybe without the
> sandpaper
> >on it)...and ran around the perimeter of the frame and under the
> >table several times directly after pouring in the plaster, I bet that
> would
> >be a good way to level it and make any trapped air bubbles rise out of
> the
> >surface.
>
>
>
> I lke this idea - might be worth a try.
> Don't run the sander without paper, though.
> The soft rubber pad on the face will wear
> out very quickly, even on smooth wood. You
> don't have to use sandpaper, though -
> regular paper will protect the pad without
> abrasion.
>
> -Snail
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
WJ Seidl on sat 9 dec 06
If I might interject here for a moment:
The idea is to settle the liquid plaster before it sets, and rid it of
entrained air bubbles, is it not?
Therefore, clamping an orbital sander by its handle onto the "frame" of the
table and letting it "do its thing" while pouring the plaster would
accomplish the same task, while not endangering the sander. One could also
accomplish the vibrating aspect with a cordless electric drill motor
strapped to a table leg while spinning a slightly out of round shaft chucked
into it.
The point I'm making is that it is the vibration that is important. The
platen of the sander need not be engaged on the frame to accomplish this.
Neither does the machine tool in question need to contact the plaster at
all. You might research "vibratory (vibrating) conveyors" for additional
ideas.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Patrick Cross
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 7:38 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: design of wedging table
Yeah...yeah. Do that. I knew right after I hit send that I had given some
bad advice...running the sander naked. I didn't think to say, just use
plain paper if you didn't want to actually sand (doh)...makes perfect
sense. Seems to me the oldest cheapest...crappiest sander would be best for
this job. I mean the whole point is to get major vibration and a high
quality sander would just be too well machined.
Another thought I had was...what if the sander had a probe attached to the
platen? Then that could be inserted into the wet plaster in several
locations.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/8/06, Snail Scott wrote:
>
> At 09:33 PM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
> >...If you
> >used something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander...(maybe without the
> sandpaper
> >on it)...and ran around the perimeter of the frame and under the
> >table several times directly after pouring in the plaster, I bet that
> would
> >be a good way to level it and make any trapped air bubbles rise out of
> the
> >surface.
>
>
>
> I lke this idea - might be worth a try.
> Don't run the sander without paper, though.
> The soft rubber pad on the face will wear
> out very quickly, even on smooth wood. You
> don't have to use sandpaper, though -
> regular paper will protect the pad without
> abrasion.
>
> -Snail
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Patrick Cross on sat 9 dec 06
I know I'm not going to spell this right but here goes...I saw a program on
TV recently about a massive resort development in *Dubai* (sp?)...sounds
like doo Buy. They built new Islands in the shape of a giant palm tree off
the coast line. Anyhow they had to artificially settle all that new land
and they did it by inserting huge vibrating probes in a grid pattern across
the surface...then back filled the sunken areas as the went along.
So I was just thinking about that on a micro scale...with something like
1/2" PVC pipe temporarily attached to the platen of the sander. Does that
give a better visual? This all may be a little on the obsessive side..I
mean so what if there are a few bubbles in the finished slab of plaster??
But the concept might come in handy for something else...
Though the real trick is to avoid as much as possible getting air bubbles in
the plaster to begin with...by first mixing it as gently as you can. (in
other words, Don't use a dry wall mixer in a drill). And then pour it in
the tray very slowly. I've noticed that if you keep hitting the same spot
as you pour the bubbles start accumulating. It seems to work better if hit
hit a spot and then start backing away from it as you pour.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/9/06, WJ Seidl wrote:
>
> If I might interject here for a moment:
> The idea is to settle the liquid plaster before it sets, and rid it of
> entrained air bubbles, is it not?
>
> Therefore, clamping an orbital sander by its handle onto the "frame" of
> the
> table and letting it "do its thing" while pouring the plaster would
> accomplish the same task, while not endangering the sander. One could
> also
> accomplish the vibrating aspect with a cordless electric drill motor
> strapped to a table leg while spinning a slightly out of round shaft
> chucked
> into it.
> The point I'm making is that it is the vibration that is important. The
> platen of the sander need not be engaged on the frame to accomplish this.
> Neither does the machine tool in question need to contact the plaster at
> all. You might research "vibratory (vibrating) conveyors" for additional
> ideas.
> Best,
> Wayne Seidl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Patrick Cross
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 7:38 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: design of wedging table
>
> Yeah...yeah. Do that. I knew right after I hit send that I had given
> some
> bad advice...running the sander naked. I didn't think to say, just use
> plain paper if you didn't want to actually sand (doh)...makes perfect
> sense. Seems to me the oldest cheapest...crappiest sander would be best
> for
> this job. I mean the whole point is to get major vibration and a high
> quality sander would just be too well machined.
>
> Another thought I had was...what if the sander had a probe attached to the
> platen? Then that could be inserted into the wet plaster in several
> locations.
>
> Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
>
>
> On 12/8/06, Snail Scott wrote:
> >
> > At 09:33 PM 12/6/2006 -0600, you wrote:
> > >...If you
> > >used something like a 1/4 sheet palm sander...(maybe without the
> > sandpaper
> > >on it)...and ran around the perimeter of the frame and under the
> > >table several times directly after pouring in the plaster, I bet that
> > would
> > >be a good way to level it and make any trapped air bubbles rise out of
> > the
> > >surface.
> >
> >
> >
> > I lke this idea - might be worth a try.
> > Don't run the sander without paper, though.
> > The soft rubber pad on the face will wear
> > out very quickly, even on smooth wood. You
> > don't have to use sandpaper, though -
> > regular paper will protect the pad without
> > abrasion.
> >
> > -Snail
> >
> >
> >
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
m.mshelomi on sat 9 dec 06
I have been reading all the wedging table messages for the past several
days.
With the latest talk about inserting a jiggler, for want of a better word,
would like to know what material is being used for the table. If plaster, I
understand how it would work to get the air out. But, if it is plaster
paris...
I am not so sure.
I have noticed when making anything out of pottery plaster that it is a race
to
get it from the mixing bucket into the form at exactly the right moment so
it
does not turn rock hard in the bucket that it has been mixed in. One moment
it is
a liquid and the next moment it is rock solid and giving off heat.
Please explain....
pottermim
Patrick Cross on sat 9 dec 06
True, you do have to plan ahead but it sounds like maybe you aren't using
enough water when making up a batch.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/9/06, m.mshelomi wrote:
>
> I have been reading all the wedging table messages for the past several
> days.
>
> With the latest talk about inserting a jiggler, for want of a better word,
> would like to know what material is being used for the table. If plaster,
> I
> understand how it would work to get the air out. But, if it is plaster
> paris...
> I am not so sure.
>
> I have noticed when making anything out of pottery plaster that it is a
> race
> to
> get it from the mixing bucket into the form at exactly the right moment so
> it
> does not turn rock hard in the bucket that it has been mixed in. One
> moment
> it is
> a liquid and the next moment it is rock solid and giving off heat.
>
> Please explain....
>
> pottermim
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Snail Scott on sun 10 dec 06
At 05:08 PM 12/9/2006 -0500, Pottermim wrote:
>
>I have noticed when making anything out of pottery plaster that it is a race
>to
>get it from the mixing bucket into the form at exactly the right moment so
>it
>does not turn rock hard in the bucket that it has been mixed in. One moment
>it is
>a liquid and the next moment it is rock solid and giving off heat...
All plaster, even of the same type, can
vary strikingly in its set time. When
plaster is freshly calcined, it takes time
for the particles to slake when they get
wet, and set times are at their maximum.
Using warmer water will hasten a very
slow set time, as will vigorous stirring.
As plaster ages, it begins to rehydrate
from atmospheric humidity, and gets sort
of 'primed'. As this process goes on, the
set time for the same plaster will get
faster and faster, until it is too fast to
be useful, and then it gets maxed out,
totally rehydrated, and it sets up while
still in powder form. It may look OK, but
will never set properly unless recalcined
to drive off the water.
Plaster of Paris isn't normally too far off
from pottery plaster in its set times, which
makes me think your pottery plaster has
gotten old and begun to rehydrate. Some
suppliers don't rotate thier stock regularly,
and others buy it from middleman who may
not rotate. Others buy in quanitity to keep
costs low, but simply don't sell enough to
move it through the warehouse in a timely
fashion.
Also, mixing plaster in a bucket containing
plaster residue can catalyze the reaction,
setting off the fresh batch much faster
than it would have set in a clean container.
For now, try to mix using cold water to slow
the reaction time. If that doesn't work,
look for fresher plaster. New plaster is
cheaper than wasting your time.
-Snail
Patrick Cross on mon 11 dec 06
Sure, I see what you mean...though many are adding to and following this
thread so...just throwing out ideas.
Why it's so important for a wedging table not to warp, is a bit of a
puzzle. So what if it does? If it is an issue, I would suggest looking at
how high end carpenters benches are put together... such as:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51104&cat=1,41637
There's no need for a wedging table to be constructed of Beech or Maple...a
bunch of pine 2X4's turned up off the flat and ganged together with two or
three long threaded rods would be incredibly stable. There might be a
little surface planing to do to make the top flat...
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/11/06, Lynne and Bruce Girrell wrote:
>
> Patrick Cross wrote:
>
> > I'm a little confused by this...If we're talking about making a wood
> surface
> > to go over the plaster wedging surface...
>
> I understood Susan's situation to be that she doesn't want to use plaster
> at
> all and wants instead to use canvas over a wooden top and, hence, what
> sort
> of wooden top should she build? If that is not the case, then disregard
> what
> I wrote.
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Erik Harmon on mon 11 dec 06
I made mine out of cement, lots more durable and almost as absorbant. Originally I made plaster tables but for a year they they kept flaking apart. I think it was old plaster.
Erik
Snail Scott wrote:
At 05:08 PM 12/9/2006 -0500, Pottermim wrote:
>
>I have noticed when making anything out of pottery plaster that it is a race
>to
>get it from the mixing bucket into the form at exactly the right moment so
>it
>does not turn rock hard in the bucket that it has been mixed in. One moment
>it is
>a liquid and the next moment it is rock solid and giving off heat...
All plaster, even of the same type, can
vary strikingly in its set time. When
plaster is freshly calcined, it takes time
for the particles to slake when they get
wet, and set times are at their maximum.
Using warmer water will hasten a very
slow set time, as will vigorous stirring.
As plaster ages, it begins to rehydrate
from atmospheric humidity, and gets sort
of 'primed'. As this process goes on, the
set time for the same plaster will get
faster and faster, until it is too fast to
be useful, and then it gets maxed out,
totally rehydrated, and it sets up while
still in powder form. It may look OK, but
will never set properly unless recalcined
to drive off the water.
Plaster of Paris isn't normally too far off
from pottery plaster in its set times, which
makes me think your pottery plaster has
gotten old and begun to rehydrate. Some
suppliers don't rotate thier stock regularly,
and others buy it from middleman who may
not rotate. Others buy in quanitity to keep
costs low, but simply don't sell enough to
move it through the warehouse in a timely
fashion.
Also, mixing plaster in a bucket containing
plaster residue can catalyze the reaction,
setting off the fresh batch much faster
than it would have set in a clean container.
For now, try to mix using cold water to slow
the reaction time. If that doesn't work,
look for fresher plaster. New plaster is
cheaper than wasting your time.
-Snail
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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Susan Fox Hirschmann on mon 11 dec 06
In a message dated 12/11/2006 12:29:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
claymaster_77@YAHOO.COM writes:
I made mine out of cement, lots more durable and almost as absorbant.
Originally I made plaster tables but for a year they they kept flaking apart. I
think it was old plaster.
Erik
I do appreciate all the words of wisdom on my inquiry.
When I do build this table, I will not do a plaster or cement top. I do
remember the days teaching in a studio with old plaster wedging tables with
pieces flaking off into the clay and will instead cover mine in heavy sail cloth
weight canvas.
Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as a top for the table
that would not warp? Polyurethene necessary, do you think?
Thanks again.
Susan
Annandale, VA
Bruce Girrell on mon 11 dec 06
Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
> When I do build this table, I will not do a plaster or cement top.
> I do remember the days teaching in a studio with old plaster wedging
> tables with pieces flaking off into the clay
I understand the aversion to plaster, but why not concrete?
> and will instead cover mine in heavy sail cloth weight canvas.
Giant dust trap IMHO
> Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as a top for
> the table that would not warp?
But, if you insist...
Any flat-sawn wood is going to warp when exposed to moisture. End-grain
(butcher block) is the way to go. Making up a butcher block top is not
difficult, though you should use a water resistant or waterproof glue. Since
appearance is not an issue, resorcinol glue would do very well.
If you are not willing to go with end grain, then your next best bet is
quarter-sawn wood. That may be hard to find, though, as it is not an
economical way to cut wood unless there is something to be gained from it as
in quarter-sawn white oak, which shows a beautiful figure.
If you simply must use flat-sawn wood, use thin boards and place one board
with the heartwood side up, then next board sapwood side up, heartwood,
sapwood, heartwood, sapwood, ... If you look at the end of the board, you
will see the growth rings of the tree. The heartwood side is on the concave
side of the rings and the sapwood is on the convex side of the rings.
Regardless of which top you use, it should be laid up on 1 1/2" of decking
plywood, the way that kitchen countertops are built.
Bruce Girrell
Patrick Cross on mon 11 dec 06
I'm a little confused by this...If we're talking about making a wood surface
to go over the plaster wedging surface...to use as additional work area when
not in use as a wedging table, then what I'm about to write doesn't apply.
If the idea is to come up with a frame that won't rot or warp from the
evaporating moisture contained in the plaster slab, then I have a
few ideas.
I would build the frame out of good ol' inexpensive pine 2X
framing...2X4...2X6...etc. Then if you're really concerned about possible
rot issues, the tray in which the plaster is going to be poured could simply
be lined with a couple of layers of high mil plastic sheeting before the
pour. One disadvantage to that though is all but one surface of the plaster
will be allowed to breath and it will take longer to dry out...if you
typically use plaster to dry thrown scraps of clay. At any rate, that should
last a very long time since no sunlight could really get at the plastic.
Or you could get fancy and line the tray with galvanized metal sheet
first....with either silicon caulk at the seams or solder. If making that
seems daunting then I would suggest scoping out garden center suppliers and
the like to see if there is a suitable plant tray product out there that
would be an appropriate size (think, window boxes that are lined with tin or
copper...)...then plan your wedging table frame around it. If you did find
pre-made galvanized trays that were close to what you wanted in one
dimension, but not the other you could just add multiples (sides screwed
together) until you came up with the shape desired.
Again though that prevents the plaster from breathing... You could
construct the bottom of the frame's tray with 2X slats spaced say...2" apart
rather than a solid field. Then drop in the galvanized pan...but in the
areas that fall over the gaps between the slats below, you could cut out 1"
circles in the galvanized tray...in a grid pattern. Before the pour of the
plaster tape those up with heavy tape...or cover with little discs of
picture mat board or what ever you have laying around that works to prevent
the plaster from running out. After the plaster sets go back and cut out
the discs/tape from below...Ta-Da...air holes for the plaster to breath and
dry out.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/11/06, Bruce Girrell wrote:
>
> Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
>
> > When I do build this table, I will not do a plaster or cement top.
> > I do remember the days teaching in a studio with old plaster wedging
> > tables with pieces flaking off into the clay
>
> I understand the aversion to plaster, but why not concrete?
>
> > and will instead cover mine in heavy sail cloth weight canvas.
>
> Giant dust trap IMHO
>
> > Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as a top for
> > the table that would not warp?
>
> But, if you insist...
>
> Any flat-sawn wood is going to warp when exposed to moisture. End-grain
> (butcher block) is the way to go. Making up a butcher block top is not
> difficult, though you should use a water resistant or waterproof glue.
> Since
> appearance is not an issue, resorcinol glue would do very well.
>
> If you are not willing to go with end grain, then your next best bet is
> quarter-sawn wood. That may be hard to find, though, as it is not an
> economical way to cut wood unless there is something to be gained from it
> as
> in quarter-sawn white oak, which shows a beautiful figure.
>
> If you simply must use flat-sawn wood, use thin boards and place one board
> with the heartwood side up, then next board sapwood side up, heartwood,
> sapwood, heartwood, sapwood, ... If you look at the end of the board, you
> will see the growth rings of the tree. The heartwood side is on the
> concave
> side of the rings and the sapwood is on the convex side of the rings.
>
> Regardless of which top you use, it should be laid up on 1 1/2" of decking
> plywood, the way that kitchen countertops are built.
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Lynne and Bruce Girrell on mon 11 dec 06
Patrick Cross wrote:
> I'm a little confused by this...If we're talking about making a wood
surface
> to go over the plaster wedging surface...
I understood Susan's situation to be that she doesn't want to use plaster at
all and wants instead to use canvas over a wooden top and, hence, what sort
of wooden top should she build? If that is not the case, then disregard what
I wrote.
Bruce Girrell
Ric Swenson on tue 12 dec 06
overkill?
=20
too complicated....your table will last virtually FOREVER anyway.....keep i=
t simple...use hard plaster and the frame doesn't matter a whit.
=20
Ric
=20
"...then fiery expedition be my wing, ..."Wm. Shakespeare, RICHARD III, Act=
IV Scene IIIRichard H. ("Ric") Swenson, Teacher,Office of International Co=
operation and Exchange of Jingdezhen Ceramic Institute, TaoYang Road, Easte=
rn Suburb, Jingdezhen City JiangXi Province, P.R. of China.Postal code 3330=
01.Mobile/cellular phone :13767818872+86-0798-8499600 (ofc.)+86-0798-849901=
2 (fax)E-Mail: RicSwenson0823@hotmail.com=20
> Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 17:11:34 -0600> From: cone10soda@GMAIL.COM> Subjec=
t: Re: design of wedging table> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG> > I'm a littl=
e confused by this...If we're talking about making a wood surface> to go ov=
er the plaster wedging surface...to use as additional work area when> not i=
n use as a wedging table, then what I'm about to write doesn't apply.> If t=
he idea is to come up with a frame that won't rot or warp from the> evapora=
ting moisture contained in the plaster slab, then I have a> few ideas.> > I=
would build the frame out of good ol' inexpensive pine 2X> framing...2X4..=
.2X6...etc. Then if you're really concerned about possible> rot issues, the=
tray in which the plaster is going to be poured could simply> be lined wit=
h a couple of layers of high mil plastic sheeting before the> pour. One dis=
advantage to that though is all but one surface of the plaster> will be all=
owed to breath and it will take longer to dry out...if you> typically use p=
laster to dry thrown scraps of clay. At any rate, that should> last a very =
long time since no sunlight could really get at the plastic.> > Or you coul=
d get fancy and line the tray with galvanized metal sheet> first....with ei=
ther silicon caulk at the seams or solder. If making that> seems daunting t=
hen I would suggest scoping out garden center suppliers and> the like to se=
e if there is a suitable plant tray product out there that> would be an app=
ropriate size (think, window boxes that are lined with tin or> copper...)..=
.then plan your wedging table frame around it. If you did find> pre-made ga=
lvanized trays that were close to what you wanted in one> dimension, but no=
t the other you could just add multiples (sides screwed> together) until yo=
u came up with the shape desired.> > Again though that prevents the plaster=
from breathing... You could> construct the bottom of the frame's tray with=
2X slats spaced say...2" apart> rather than a solid field. Then drop in th=
e galvanized pan...but in the> areas that fall over the gaps between the sl=
ats below, you could cut out 1"> circles in the galvanized tray...in a grid=
pattern. Before the pour of the> plaster tape those up with heavy tape...o=
r cover with little discs of> picture mat board or what ever you have layin=
g around that works to prevent> the plaster from running out. After the pla=
ster sets go back and cut out> the discs/tape from below...Ta-Da...air hole=
s for the plaster to breath and> dry out.> > Patrick Cross (cone10soda)> > =
> On 12/11/06, Bruce Girrell wrote:> >> > Susan=
Fox Hirschmann wrote:> >> > > When I do build this table, I will not do a =
plaster or cement top.> > > I do remember the days teaching in a studio wit=
h old plaster wedging> > > tables with pieces flaking off into the clay> >>=
> I understand the aversion to plaster, but why not concrete?> >> > > and =
will instead cover mine in heavy sail cloth weight canvas.> >> > Giant dust=
trap IMHO> >> > > Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as =
a top for> > > the table that would not warp?> >> > But, if you insist...> =
>> > Any flat-sawn wood is going to warp when exposed to moisture. End-grai=
n> > (butcher block) is the way to go. Making up a butcher block top is not=
> > difficult, though you should use a water resistant or waterproof glue.>=
> Since> > appearance is not an issue, resorcinol glue would do very well.=
> >> > If you are not willing to go with end grain, then your next best bet=
is> > quarter-sawn wood. That may be hard to find, though, as it is not an=
> > economical way to cut wood unless there is something to be gained from =
it> > as> > in quarter-sawn white oak, which shows a beautiful figure.> >> =
> If you simply must use flat-sawn wood, use thin boards and place one boar=
d> > with the heartwood side up, then next board sapwood side up, heartwood=
,> > sapwood, heartwood, sapwood, ... If you look at the end of the board, =
you> > will see the growth rings of the tree. The heartwood side is on the>=
> concave> > side of the rings and the sapwood is on the convex side of th=
e rings.> >> > Regardless of which top you use, it should be laid up on 1 1=
/2" of decking> > plywood, the way that kitchen countertops are built.> >> =
> Bruce Girrell> >> >> > __________________________________________________=
____________________________> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org> =
>> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription>=
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/> >> > Moderator of the li=
st is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at> > melpots@pclink.com.> >> > _____=
_________________________________________________________________________> =
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org> > You may look at the archives f=
or the list or change your subscription> settings from http://www.ceramics.=
org/clayart/> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at=
melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC.=A0 Get a free 90-day trial=
!
http://www.windowsonecare.com/purchase/trial.aspx?sc_cid=3Dwl_wlmail=
Rick on tue 12 dec 06
You are a little confused??????? Can you imagine how I feel after
reading this!
I'm finding it hard to believe that one would even consider making
whatever it is that you have described below. I have an inch or so
thick sheet of plywood nailed to a very thick heavy wood frame that I
have been using for 20 years. Do you plan on dropping a few lbs of
drenched slop clay on this table to dry out? I can't figure out what
you are trying to build!
Rick
On Dec 12, 2006, at 8:11 AM, Patrick Cross wrote:
> I'm a little confused by this...If we're talking about making a
> wood surface
> to go over the plaster wedging surface...to use as additional work
> area when
> not in use as a wedging table, then what I'm about to write doesn't
> apply.
> If the idea is to come up with a frame that won't rot or warp from the
> evaporating moisture contained in the plaster slab, then I have a
> few ideas.
>
> I would build the frame out of good ol' inexpensive pine 2X
> framing...2X4...2X6...etc. Then if you're really concerned about
> possible
> rot issues, the tray in which the plaster is going to be poured
> could simply
> be lined with a couple of layers of high mil plastic sheeting
> before the
> pour. One disadvantage to that though is all but one surface of
> the plaster
> will be allowed to breath and it will take longer to dry out...if you
> typically use plaster to dry thrown scraps of clay. At any rate,
> that should
> last a very long time since no sunlight could really get at the
> plastic.
>
> Or you could get fancy and line the tray with galvanized metal sheet
> first....with either silicon caulk at the seams or solder. If
> making that
> seems daunting then I would suggest scoping out garden center
> suppliers and
> the like to see if there is a suitable plant tray product out there
> that
> would be an appropriate size (think, window boxes that are lined
> with tin or
> copper...)...then plan your wedging table frame around it. If you
> did find
> pre-made galvanized trays that were close to what you wanted in one
> dimension, but not the other you could just add multiples (sides
> screwed
> together) until you came up with the shape desired.
>
> Again though that prevents the plaster from breathing... You could
> construct the bottom of the frame's tray with 2X slats spaced say...
> 2" apart
> rather than a solid field. Then drop in the galvanized pan...but
> in the
> areas that fall over the gaps between the slats below, you could
> cut out 1"
> circles in the galvanized tray...in a grid pattern. Before the
> pour of the
> plaster tape those up with heavy tape...or cover with little discs of
> picture mat board or what ever you have laying around that works to
> prevent
> the plaster from running out. After the plaster sets go back and
> cut out
> the discs/tape from below...Ta-Da...air holes for the plaster to
> breath and
> dry out.
>
> Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
>
>
> On 12/11/06, Bruce Girrell wrote:
>>
>> Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
>>
>> > When I do build this table, I will not do a plaster or cement top.
>> > I do remember the days teaching in a studio with old plaster
>> wedging
>> > tables with pieces flaking off into the clay
>>
>> I understand the aversion to plaster, but why not concrete?
>>
>> > and will instead cover mine in heavy sail cloth weight canvas.
>>
>> Giant dust trap IMHO
>>
>> > Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as a top for
>> > the table that would not warp?
>>
>> But, if you insist...
>>
>> Any flat-sawn wood is going to warp when exposed to moisture. End-
>> grain
>> (butcher block) is the way to go. Making up a butcher block top is
>> not
>> difficult, though you should use a water resistant or waterproof
>> glue.
>> Since
>> appearance is not an issue, resorcinol glue would do very well.
>>
>> If you are not willing to go with end grain, then your next best
>> bet is
>> quarter-sawn wood. That may be hard to find, though, as it is not an
>> economical way to cut wood unless there is something to be gained
>> from it
>> as
>> in quarter-sawn white oak, which shows a beautiful figure.
>>
>> If you simply must use flat-sawn wood, use thin boards and place
>> one board
>> with the heartwood side up, then next board sapwood side up,
>> heartwood,
>> sapwood, heartwood, sapwood, ... If you look at the end of the
>> board, you
>> will see the growth rings of the tree. The heartwood side is on the
>> concave
>> side of the rings and the sapwood is on the convex side of the rings.
>>
>> Regardless of which top you use, it should be laid up on 1 1/2" of
>> decking
>> plywood, the way that kitchen countertops are built.
>>
>> Bruce Girrell
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> _________
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Rudy Tucker on tue 12 dec 06
Susan,
For a long time I used a plywood topped wedging table, nothing special just
3/4" CDX screwed down to a heavy table. Marine plywood would be better if
you could buy just a small piece rather than the whole sheet. Don't coat it
with anything, you want it to be somewhat absorbent so clay will not stick.
I never liked canvas covering because it will collect dust.
By far the best wedging surface I've ever used is soapstone. It is dense yet
absorbent and dries out very quickly. I have a slab that is 1 1/4 inch thick
that is larger than my old table so it just lays on top and is heavy enough
that it doesn't move during use.
There is a soapstone quarry here in Virginia near Schuyler (south of
Charlottesville) and you can buy stone directly from them. Or you might find
a counter top installer there in N.VA. that would have sink cut outs or
other scraps that they'd sell cheap. Either way, you would want an
unfinished surface.
Rudy Tucker
West of the Blue Ridge
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Fox Hirschmann"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: design of wedging table
> When I do build this table, I will not do a plaster or cement top. I do
> remember the days teaching in a studio with old plaster wedging tables
> with
> pieces flaking off into the clay and will instead cover mine in heavy sail
> cloth
> weight canvas.
>
> Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as a top for the
> table
> that would not warp? Polyurethene necessary, do you think?
>
> Thanks again.
> Susan
> Annandale, VA
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Patrick Cross on tue 12 dec 06
Which post did you read/reply to...the Ric Swenson one quoting my original
post plus a bunch of other postings or my post by itself? That's a whole
world of question marks you have there after your first sentence????????
Makes me wonder if you might tone it down a little, Rick. If you want me to
explain what I meant I'll do that...but not to a child.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/12/06, Rick wrote:
>
> You are a little confused??????? Can you imagine how I feel after
> reading this!
> I'm finding it hard to believe that one would even consider making
> whatever it is that you have described below. I have an inch or so
> thick sheet of plywood nailed to a very thick heavy wood frame that I
> have been using for 20 years. Do you plan on dropping a few lbs of
> drenched slop clay on this table to dry out? I can't figure out what
> you are trying to build!
>
> Rick
>
> On Dec 12, 2006, at 8:11 AM, Patrick Cross wrote:
>
> > I'm a little confused by this...If we're talking about making a
> > wood surface
> > to go over the plaster wedging surface...to use as additional work
> > area when
> > not in use as a wedging table, then what I'm about to write doesn't
> > apply.
> > If the idea is to come up with a frame that won't rot or warp from the
> > evaporating moisture contained in the plaster slab, then I have a
> > few ideas.
> >
> > I would build the frame out of good ol' inexpensive pine 2X
> > framing...2X4...2X6...etc. Then if you're really concerned about
> > possible
> > rot issues, the tray in which the plaster is going to be poured
> > could simply
> > be lined with a couple of layers of high mil plastic sheeting
> > before the
> > pour. One disadvantage to that though is all but one surface of
> > the plaster
> > will be allowed to breath and it will take longer to dry out...if you
> > typically use plaster to dry thrown scraps of clay. At any rate,
> > that should
> > last a very long time since no sunlight could really get at the
> > plastic.
> >
> > Or you could get fancy and line the tray with galvanized metal sheet
> > first....with either silicon caulk at the seams or solder. If
> > making that
> > seems daunting then I would suggest scoping out garden center
> > suppliers and
> > the like to see if there is a suitable plant tray product out there
> > that
> > would be an appropriate size (think, window boxes that are lined
> > with tin or
> > copper...)...then plan your wedging table frame around it. If you
> > did find
> > pre-made galvanized trays that were close to what you wanted in one
> > dimension, but not the other you could just add multiples (sides
> > screwed
> > together) until you came up with the shape desired.
> >
> > Again though that prevents the plaster from breathing... You could
> > construct the bottom of the frame's tray with 2X slats spaced say...
> > 2" apart
> > rather than a solid field. Then drop in the galvanized pan...but
> > in the
> > areas that fall over the gaps between the slats below, you could
> > cut out 1"
> > circles in the galvanized tray...in a grid pattern. Before the
> > pour of the
> > plaster tape those up with heavy tape...or cover with little discs of
> > picture mat board or what ever you have laying around that works to
> > prevent
> > the plaster from running out. After the plaster sets go back and
> > cut out
> > the discs/tape from below...Ta-Da...air holes for the plaster to
> > breath and
> > dry out.
> >
> > Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
> >
> >
> > On 12/11/06, Bruce Girrell wrote:
> >>
> >> Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
> >>
> >> > When I do build this table, I will not do a plaster or cement top.
> >> > I do remember the days teaching in a studio with old plaster
> >> wedging
> >> > tables with pieces flaking off into the clay
> >>
> >> I understand the aversion to plaster, but why not concrete?
> >>
> >> > and will instead cover mine in heavy sail cloth weight canvas.
> >>
> >> Giant dust trap IMHO
> >>
> >> > Big question now is, what kind of wood would you use as a top for
> >> > the table that would not warp?
> >>
> >> But, if you insist...
> >>
> >> Any flat-sawn wood is going to warp when exposed to moisture. End-
> >> grain
> >> (butcher block) is the way to go. Making up a butcher block top is
> >> not
> >> difficult, though you should use a water resistant or waterproof
> >> glue.
> >> Since
> >> appearance is not an issue, resorcinol glue would do very well.
> >>
> >> If you are not willing to go with end grain, then your next best
> >> bet is
> >> quarter-sawn wood. That may be hard to find, though, as it is not an
> >> economical way to cut wood unless there is something to be gained
> >> from it
> >> as
> >> in quarter-sawn white oak, which shows a beautiful figure.
> >>
> >> If you simply must use flat-sawn wood, use thin boards and place
> >> one board
> >> with the heartwood side up, then next board sapwood side up,
> >> heartwood,
> >> sapwood, heartwood, sapwood, ... If you look at the end of the
> >> board, you
> >> will see the growth rings of the tree. The heartwood side is on the
> >> concave
> >> side of the rings and the sapwood is on the convex side of the rings.
> >>
> >> Regardless of which top you use, it should be laid up on 1 1/2" of
> >> decking
> >> plywood, the way that kitchen countertops are built.
> >>
> >> Bruce Girrell
> >>
> >>
> >> _____________________________________________________________________
> >> _________
> >> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >>
> >> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >>
> >> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >> melpots@pclink.com.
> >>
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________
> > ________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Snail Scott on tue 12 dec 06
At 01:42 PM 12/11/2006 EST, you wrote:
>...what kind of wood would you use as a top for the table
>that would not warp?
Exterior grade or marine plywood, screwed
down to adequately seasoned (dry, not fresh
from the lumberyard) 2x4 framing. You can
tell when wood is dry the same way as with
clay - if it's cool to the touch and heavy,
give it time and ventilation, or skip it.
No polyurethane needed.
-Snail
Gayle Bair on tue 12 dec 06
There are some of us devoted to the use of hardibacker type boards
For a few testimonials See:
http://www.potters.org/subject87764.htm
http://www.potters.org/subject83449.htm
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind0508e&L=clayart&D=0&P=27843
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind0412d&L=clayart&P=8869
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
www.claybair.com
Kate Mondrone on wed 13 dec 06
I didn't read all the emails on this subject so Im not sure if the angle of
the board was considered...the angle of the wedging board can prevent or ease
carpal tunnel syndrome. With the proper angle, it can ease pressure on the
wrists. I had an occupational therapist come to my studio and that was one
of her recommendations. Sorry, I forgot what the angle was though but Im sure
you can find that out.
I dont think wood is a good solution as apposed to plaster cause wood wont
absorb water from the clay. Why not cover the plaster with canvas if your
concerned about the plaster flaking into your clay?
Kate
Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on wed 13 dec 06
Bruce,
I mentioned in an earlier post that if you use "Shuttering" Ply - smooth =
on one side rougher on the other - then it will not warp. Comes in a =
variety of thicknesses, but commonest is 25mm or 1". The boards are 4' x =
8' and as cheap as chips as they are used in the building trade to =
enclose concrete when it is poured into the moulds made by the =
shuttering board. Brilliant stuff, absorbent enough for very soft clay, =
strong enough to last many, many years - no need for plaster or concrete =
or that other awful dust trap canvas, ready to use in seconds, and =
cleans down easily with sponge and water.
Happy potting Marek
Hand made Architectural Ceramics from No9 Studio UK www.no9uk.com
Fully Residential Pottery Courses and more at Mole Cottage =
www.moleys.com
"Tips and Time Travel from a Vernacular Potter" reviews on =
www.keramix.com
an irreverent point of view after 35 years in the game Marek =
Drzazga-Donaldson =20
Assemble a dragon finial at www.dragonfinials.co.uk
Free Works and Mole Cottage DVD's and Video content on all the sites
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