Smith, Judy on tue 12 dec 06
My pottery classes fire all the glazes at cone 6. I am not experienced
enough to start making my own glazes. I have ordered the book
"Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" so that I can become less ignorant about the
process. For now I use Coyote cone 6 glazes. Is there something I can
add to these glazes to get them to run? I keep dipping my entire pots
in one glaze and just the rim in another color. I would like the rim
color to run at least halfway down the pot. I have tried lots of color
combinations. I have tried making the rim glaze thick, but this makes
the glaze just crawl off of the pot. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Any help would be appreciated.
=20
Thanks,
Judy Smith
Bruce Girrell on tue 12 dec 06
Judy Smith wrote:
> I am not experienced enough to start making my own glazes.
Not true, making glazes is no secret art, but we'll let you go this time.
> I have ordered the book "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes"
A very good start. Read the book, not just the recipes.
> Is there something I can add to these glazes to get them to run?
Frit 3134 or other boron source. When you get Mastering Cone 6 Glazes, look
up Waterfall Brown. Waterfall Brown runs a _lot_. When Ron and John
recommend that you put it on thin, listen to them.
Good luck to you
Bruce Girrell
Dave Finkelnburg on tue 12 dec 06
Judy,
The book you have picked is an excellent source of
information!
Without changing the composition of your glazes, it
will be very difficult to make your glazes more fluid.
If you have access to some very simple materials and
are willing to carefully make tests, though, you may
can make your glazes run in a controlled way.
What you need is some source of flux, say whiting
(ground limestone) or a frit such as Ferro 3134 (Pemco
P54). Then you make a line blend of your glaze with
the flux source. The line blend is very simple.
First, get a notebook you can dedicate to keeping
careful records of what you mix for your tests. Then
get two same-size containers and label them, say 1 and
2. In 1 put a given quantity of your glaze. In 2 put
90% as much glaze and the rest the new material. Now
you have both ends of a line blend, 1 with 0% new
ingredient, call it N, and 2 with 10% ingredient N.
Now put as many containers in between as you want to
make incremental tests.
If you take equal amounts from the two containers
you have and put them in a third, it's obvious when
you mix this up you will have a sample that has 5% N.
If you add nine parts of 1 and one part of 2 you will
have 1% N. Very quickly you can make up a set of
samples with, for example, 0 to 10% N in 1% steps. If
you carefully label 11 test tiles (a glaze pencil, an
iron wash, or scratching into the tile will make a
permanent mark) and dip them in the 11 samples, you
can then fire them in a clay dish made to catch any
runs that may occur and see the effect.
You may even want to make test tiles with layering in
the same manner as the ware you want to glaze.
You may change glaze color and/or glaze surface in
doing this but right now you are just trying to make a
more fluid glaze, so focusing on that you want to add
ingredients with NO alumina. That means no clay,
feldspar or frits with alumina. 3134 has no alumina,
by the way.
I know I have oversimplified what is a very complex
subject with lots of possibilities, but I hope this
helps give you at least one idea. Good glazing,
Dave Finkelnburg
--- "Smith, Judy" wrote:
> My pottery classes fire all the glazes at cone 6. I
> am not experienced
> enough to start making my own glazes. I have
> ordered the book
> "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" so that I can become less
> ignorant about the
> process. For now I use Coyote cone 6 glazes. Is
> there something I can
> add to these glazes to get them to run?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now.
Paul Lewing on tue 12 dec 06
On Dec 12, 2006, at 11:36 AM, Smith, Judy wrote:
For now I use Coyote cone 6 glazes. Is there something I can
add to these glazes to get them to run?
Judy, this is hard to predict when you're using commercial glazes,
because you don't know what's in them. I'm going to assume here that
you don't want either glaze to run when it's alone, you just want the
overlap to run. In that case, you probably need to use a glaze other
than the Coyote series for one of the glazes. The more different
two glazes are, the more likely they are to run dramatically when
overlapped. I don't know, of course, but I'd bet that the Coyote
series is all pretty much the same glaze with different colorants.
Try any other glazes that you or any of your friends have access to
and see what happens. Be sure to try them in both sequences of over
or under. Chances are that the Coyote glazes are very predictable
stable mixtures, so a good choice might be the most problematic glaze
you have- something like Floating Blue. Anything that tricky is
guaranteed to be very different in some way from the Coyotes.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
claystevslat on wed 13 dec 06
Judy --
My suggestion is to use an overglaze that isn't thick -- rather, it
should be rather thin/watery.
When you do the overglaze dunk, the thinner glaze will (even in its
wet, unfired state) remain wet and fluid for a moment. As soon as
you've dipped, turn the pot right side up, and shake it a bit -- it
will run in nice, separate segments, differently depending on
different types of shaking.
The other way to do it is to use a glaze of normal density, but with
a slight propensity to run. Over another glaze (vs. over the
rougher, more refractory clay surface), it should run more. Then
again, that might lead to other problems ...
Best wishes -- Steve Slatin
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, "Smith, Judy" wrote:
>
> My pottery classes fire all the glazes at cone 6. I am not
experienced
> enough to start making my own glazes. I have ordered the book
> "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" so that I can become less ignorant about
the
> process. For now I use Coyote cone 6 glazes. Is there something
I can
> add to these glazes to get them to run? I keep dipping my entire
pots
> in one glaze and just the rim in another color. I would like the
rim
> color to run at least halfway down the pot. I have tried lots of
color
> combinations. I have tried making the rim glaze thick, but this
makes
> the glaze just crawl off of the pot. Does anyone have any
suggestions?
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Judy Smith
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
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Martin Butt on wed 13 dec 06
>From: "Smith, Judy"
>Subject: How can I make the glaze run?
> For now I use Coyote cone 6 glazes. Is there something I can
>add to these glazes to get them to run? I keep dipping my entire pots
>in one glaze and just the rim in another color. I would like the rim
>color to run at least halfway down the pot. I have tried lots of color
>combinations. I have tried making the rim glaze thick, but this makes
>the glaze just crawl off of the pot. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>Any help would be appreciated.
Judy,
Most of the Coyote Glazes are very stable, but there is a series that
should do exactly what you want. Archie's Base, Gun Metal Green, Ice Blue
etc. are very active, interesting (and runny!) glazes that are great over
stable glazes. If you go to our glaze tips page at
http://coyoteclay.com/glaze%20tips.htm there is a list of characteristics
for each glaze, as well as images and suggestions for overlaps.
Thanks,
Martin Butt
Coyote Clay & Color
coyoteclay.com
clayncolor@aol.com
May Luk on wed 13 dec 06
Hello Judy;
The easiest thing to do, without worrying about glaze
mixing, is to fire the ware again. Not very friendly
to the environment, but it is a way.
Regards
May
Kings County
John Rodgers on sat 16 dec 06
Try this.
Mix the clear base glaze for Floating Blue. Don't add the colorants.
Instead add tin oxide and a mason or cerdic stain (color your choice).
Dip the rims or drizzle with a pointy spout pitcher or brush or
whatever. The tin oxide will cause the glaze to run. Effects will be
interesting.
You may have to play with the amount of tin to get the effect you want.
Good Luck,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL USA
May Luk wrote:
> Hello Judy;
>
> The easiest thing to do, without worrying about glaze
> mixing, is to fire the ware again. Not very friendly
> to the environment, but it is a way.
>
> Regards
> May
> Kings County
>
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