Lili Krakowski on tue 12 dec 06
1.The ad mentioned in the post on Clayart says that Conrad's book is
published by Falcon Company, PO Box 22569, San Diego, Ca. Seems to me one
either asks a buddy in San Diego to gum-shoe it, or one writes a postcard
with one's own address and e-mail address and asks how can I get this book?
Falcon may well be a subsidy house, and if so, their books are not too
likely to be found in average bookstores.
2. May I remind you all that the Maccabees captured the Temple in 166 BCE,
remodeled it COMPLETELY, and were ready to inaugurate it a year later? (Or
what Hanukkah is all about.) And may I point out that at the rate we are
going we will not have even a wedging table built in a year?
A wedging surface (I use the word advisedly) is a largish smooth surface on
which one wedges clay. It simply can be a board, a canvas covered board, a
bench (much like shoemaker's bench) which one straddles while wedging. It
can be a table, it can be a cabinet top. It can be an adjunct to a large
wheel. A wedging table has several "musts". It should be cleanable to
allow one to change clays. It should be stable and solid so it does not
skedaddle across the floor when one is wedging. It should be the right
height. If I recall, Phil said the knuckles of your fist, with the arm
fully extended at your side, should be able to rest on the wedging top. I
say the palm of your hand should be able to rest on the top without any bent
elbows or hunched shoulders.
Some people like plaster for its ancillary use of being a good surface for
drying clay slop. Some prefer cement, for its weight, smoothness, solidity,
scrubability.
My own favorite wedging tables are 30 " or so 3/4 or 1" outdoor or marine
plywood with canvas top. The canvas is held in place by molding which is
affixed with glue and brass screws. At the bottom of the board (i.e. the
part NOT covered by canvas) there is a frame of 1x1 attached. This frame
fits snuggly into a 2'x6' wooden box, with good solid 4' x 4' legs. The
legs are attached with dadoed or half-lapped joints. At three sides of the
box-on -legs attach 2"x1" boards and attach them well.
If you prefer, skip the 2"1 and attach more plywood around the table legs,
essentially making a cabinet You can leave the
front open or give it a door.
Now: You can fill the top box with plaster or concrete, OR you can weigh
the table down AND have clay storage space with bags of clay.
One of the advantages of a canvas covered and removable top is that one can
have one for each clay one uses. AND at the end of the day one takes the
thing outside and hoses it down.
Now. You will lose 3 brownie points for every $ you spend on this project.
You should be able to get all the materials except bolts, screws, and canvas
from a dumpster. (ASK the nice men. They will help you.)
Also: In Summer 1998 issue, Page 28, 29 Pottery Making Illustrated had an
article by me about wedging surfaces. Your PL should be able to get you
photocopies of those pages.
2. I just adore the way we all fling ourselves into differential diagnosis!
However: my guess would be the wiggle fingered one
might consider seeing a doctor --oh, no, how can you say such a thing?--
because it just might be a problem with something being pinched in the neck.
Can we try to remember our bodies are our tools, and that we should look
after them as we do our tools?
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Patrick Cross on tue 12 dec 06
(In AA type intro.) Hi...My name is Patrick...and I have a wiggly-waggly
finger.
This has been happening to me as long as I can recall...way on back to
junior high (37 now). Someone else pointed out that I was doing it...I had
been oblivious of it so I really don't know that it's just not some original
equipment problem/quirk. The thing about is I can prevent it from happening
if I just "tell it" not to wiggle when I reach for the wallet...and the
oddity has never progressed or shown up in other appendages. Honestly I'm a
little afraid of what a doctor might make it into. Yes, yes...I know that
sounds idiotic...but still.
I was just curious if anybody else on ClayArt had the same or
similar quirk...and the thread seemed as good a place as any to ask.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 12/12/06, Lili Krakowski wrote:
>
> 1.The ad mentioned in the post on Clayart says that Conrad's book is
> published by Falcon Company, PO Box 22569, San Diego, Ca. Seems to me one
> either asks a buddy in San Diego to gum-shoe it, or one writes a postcard
> with one's own address and e-mail address and asks how can I get this
> book?
> Falcon may well be a subsidy house, and if so, their books are not too
> likely to be found in average bookstores.
>
> 2. May I remind you all that the Maccabees captured the Temple in 166
> BCE,
> remodeled it COMPLETELY, and were ready to inaugurate it a year later? (Or
> what Hanukkah is all about.) And may I point out that at the rate we are
> going we will not have even a wedging table built in a year?
>
> A wedging surface (I use the word advisedly) is a largish smooth surface
> on
> which one wedges clay. It simply can be a board, a canvas covered board,
> a
> bench (much like shoemaker's bench) which one straddles while wedging. It
> can be a table, it can be a cabinet top. It can be an adjunct to a large
> wheel. A wedging table has several "musts". It should be cleanable to
> allow one to change clays. It should be stable and solid so it does not
> skedaddle across the floor when one is wedging. It should be the right
> height. If I recall, Phil said the knuckles of your fist, with the arm
> fully extended at your side, should be able to rest on the wedging top. I
> say the palm of your hand should be able to rest on the top without any
> bent
> elbows or hunched shoulders.
>
> Some people like plaster for its ancillary use of being a good surface for
> drying clay slop. Some prefer cement, for its weight, smoothness,
> solidity,
> scrubability.
>
> My own favorite wedging tables are 30 " or so 3/4 or 1" outdoor or marine
> plywood with canvas top. The canvas is held in place by molding which is
> affixed with glue and brass screws. At the bottom of the board (i.e. the
> part NOT covered by canvas) there is a frame of 1x1 attached. This frame
> fits snuggly into a 2'x6' wooden box, with good solid 4' x 4' legs. The
> legs are attached with dadoed or half-lapped joints. At three sides of
> the
> box-on -legs attach 2"x1" boards and attach them well.
>
> If you prefer, skip the 2"1 and attach more plywood around the table
> legs,
> essentially making a cabinet You can leave the
> front open or give it a door.
>
> Now: You can fill the top box with plaster or concrete, OR you can weigh
> the table down AND have clay storage space with bags of clay.
> One of the advantages of a canvas covered and removable top is that one
> can
> have one for each clay one uses. AND at the end of the day one takes the
> thing outside and hoses it down.
>
> Now. You will lose 3 brownie points for every $ you spend on this
> project.
> You should be able to get all the materials except bolts, screws, and
> canvas
> from a dumpster. (ASK the nice men. They will help you.)
>
> Also: In Summer 1998 issue, Page 28, 29 Pottery Making Illustrated had an
> article by me about wedging surfaces. Your PL should be able to get you
> photocopies of those pages.
>
> 2. I just adore the way we all fling ourselves into differential
> diagnosis!
> However: my guess would be the wiggle fingered one
> might consider seeing a doctor --oh, no, how can you say such a thing?--
> because it just might be a problem with something being pinched in the
> neck.
> Can we try to remember our bodies are our tools, and that we should look
> after them as we do our tools?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>
>
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