Lili Krakowski on wed 13 dec 06
It is not chutzpah that makes me add something to what David and Paul--who
REALLY know stuff-- wrote, but simply that I am cheap.
I know nothing about Coyote glazes.
With that said.
Judy. I would suggest first that you make small pinch pots or similar.
Some sort of small, flat bottomed bowls. Use these as your test cups.
Bisque as you normally do, and then coat the outside with wax, shellac,
latex, whatever.
Glaze the inside with whatever glaze you want as your base. NOW, draw a
band on the inside with Karo syrup. (We "did" Karo syrup a few days ago: it
is a US brand-name for corn syrup, and I expect any sticky sugar syrup will
do.) Now sprinkle the inside--the sugar coated rim--with sodium bicarb,
wood ash, borax. Give a little sharp shake, to remove excess.
Fire. You will have fluxed the base glaze, and one often gets really nice
effects just that way. You can mix your bicarb etc with some
colorant--iron, rutile, whatever. A very little goes a long way. You can
draw a band of colorant, the Karo, etc.
And you can progress a la Paul and David making blends of the glaze you want
with a little of the flux whose effect you like best.
AND if you are going to test glazes do yourself one of two (maybe both)
favors. EITHER assign a shelf to glaze testing, and give it an extra thick
coat of wash, and don't fret when the shelf is "ruined" , it is the
scapegoat shelf, OR
make little disks, like saucers, or sugar cookies...coat them with wash and
use them under glaze tests. Much better than ugly surprises when things run
too much.
I am not discouraging you from buying frits and other fluxes. I just intuit
that you need to learn a bit more about glaze before you set up your glaze
pantry.
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Smith, Judy on wed 13 dec 06
Do mean that I should coat the inside rim with Karo and then sprinkle it
with a small amount of sodium bicarb, wood ash, or borax. Or should I
use all three fluxes at once. =20
Thanks,
Judy Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lili
Krakowski
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:20 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Judy and the Running Glaze
It is not chutzpah that makes me add something to what David and
Paul--who
REALLY know stuff-- wrote, but simply that I am cheap.
I know nothing about Coyote glazes.
With that said.
Judy. I would suggest first that you make small pinch pots or similar.
Some sort of small, flat bottomed bowls. Use these as your test cups.
Bisque as you normally do, and then coat the outside with wax, shellac,
latex, whatever.
Glaze the inside with whatever glaze you want as your base. NOW, draw a
band on the inside with Karo syrup. (We "did" Karo syrup a few days ago:
it
is a US brand-name for corn syrup, and I expect any sticky sugar syrup
will
do.) Now sprinkle the inside--the sugar coated rim--with sodium bicarb,
wood ash, borax. Give a little sharp shake, to remove excess.
Fire. You will have fluxed the base glaze, and one often gets really
nice
effects just that way. You can mix your bicarb etc with some
colorant--iron, rutile, whatever. A very little goes a long way. You can
draw a band of colorant, the Karo, etc.
And you can progress a la Paul and David making blends of the glaze you
want
with a little of the flux whose effect you like best.
AND if you are going to test glazes do yourself one of two (maybe both)
favors. EITHER assign a shelf to glaze testing, and give it an extra
thick
coat of wash, and don't fret when the shelf is "ruined" , it is the
scapegoat shelf, OR
make little disks, like saucers, or sugar cookies...coat them with wash
and
use them under glaze tests. Much better than ugly surprises when things
run
too much.
I am not discouraging you from buying frits and other fluxes. I just
intuit
that you need to learn a bit more about glaze before you set up your
glaze
pantry.
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Nancy on wed 13 dec 06
Lili
Have you tried painted woodash mixed with a little water on the pot
first and then overglazing? My wood ash from about a month ago is STILL
drying...it's finally in the hard break apart clump stage and waiting
but come January I am going to start testing with it.
Thanks for any input
Nancy
www.hilltoppottery.com
Smith, Judy wrote:
> Do mean that I should coat the inside rim with Karo and then sprinkle it
> with a small amount of sodium bicarb, wood ash, or borax. Or should I
> use all three fluxes at once.
>
> Thanks,
> Judy Smith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lili
> Krakowski
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:20 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Judy and the Running Glaze
>
> It is not chutzpah that makes me add something to what David and
> Paul--who
> REALLY know stuff-- wrote, but simply that I am cheap.
>
> I know nothing about Coyote glazes.
>
> With that said.
>
> Judy. I would suggest first that you make small pinch pots or similar.
> Some sort of small, flat bottomed bowls. Use these as your test cups.
> Bisque as you normally do, and then coat the outside with wax, shellac,
> latex, whatever.
>
> Glaze the inside with whatever glaze you want as your base. NOW, draw a
> band on the inside with Karo syrup. (We "did" Karo syrup a few days ago:
> it
> is a US brand-name for corn syrup, and I expect any sticky sugar syrup
> will
> do.) Now sprinkle the inside--the sugar coated rim--with sodium bicarb,
> wood ash, borax. Give a little sharp shake, to remove excess.
>
> Fire. You will have fluxed the base glaze, and one often gets really
> nice
> effects just that way. You can mix your bicarb etc with some
> colorant--iron, rutile, whatever. A very little goes a long way. You can
> draw a band of colorant, the Karo, etc.
>
> And you can progress a la Paul and David making blends of the glaze you
> want
> with a little of the flux whose effect you like best.
>
> AND if you are going to test glazes do yourself one of two (maybe both)
> favors. EITHER assign a shelf to glaze testing, and give it an extra
> thick
> coat of wash, and don't fret when the shelf is "ruined" , it is the
> scapegoat shelf, OR
> make little disks, like saucers, or sugar cookies...coat them with wash
> and
> use them under glaze tests. Much better than ugly surprises when things
> run
> too much.
>
> I am not discouraging you from buying frits and other fluxes. I just
> intuit
> that you need to learn a bit more about glaze before you set up your
> glaze
> pantry.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Smith, Judy on thu 14 dec 06
This sounds interesting. I read an article on how to prepare the ash.
I will try that some time.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Nancy
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 5:21 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Judy and the Running Glaze
Lili
Have you tried painted woodash mixed with a little water on the pot
first and then overglazing? My wood ash from about a month ago is STILL
drying...it's finally in the hard break apart clump stage and waiting
but come January I am going to start testing with it.
Thanks for any input
Nancy
www.hilltoppottery.com
Smith, Judy wrote:
> Do mean that I should coat the inside rim with Karo and then sprinkle
it
> with a small amount of sodium bicarb, wood ash, or borax. Or should I
> use all three fluxes at once.
>
> Thanks,
> Judy Smith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lili
> Krakowski
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:20 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Judy and the Running Glaze
>
> It is not chutzpah that makes me add something to what David and
> Paul--who
> REALLY know stuff-- wrote, but simply that I am cheap.
>
> I know nothing about Coyote glazes.
>
> With that said.
>
> Judy. I would suggest first that you make small pinch pots or
similar.
> Some sort of small, flat bottomed bowls. Use these as your test cups.
> Bisque as you normally do, and then coat the outside with wax,
shellac,
> latex, whatever.
>
> Glaze the inside with whatever glaze you want as your base. NOW, draw
a
> band on the inside with Karo syrup. (We "did" Karo syrup a few days
ago:
> it
> is a US brand-name for corn syrup, and I expect any sticky sugar syrup
> will
> do.) Now sprinkle the inside--the sugar coated rim--with sodium
bicarb,
> wood ash, borax. Give a little sharp shake, to remove excess.
>
> Fire. You will have fluxed the base glaze, and one often gets really
> nice
> effects just that way. You can mix your bicarb etc with some
> colorant--iron, rutile, whatever. A very little goes a long way. You
can
> draw a band of colorant, the Karo, etc.
>
> And you can progress a la Paul and David making blends of the glaze
you
> want
> with a little of the flux whose effect you like best.
>
> AND if you are going to test glazes do yourself one of two (maybe
both)
> favors. EITHER assign a shelf to glaze testing, and give it an extra
> thick
> coat of wash, and don't fret when the shelf is "ruined" , it is the
> scapegoat shelf, OR
> make little disks, like saucers, or sugar cookies...coat them with
wash
> and
> use them under glaze tests. Much better than ugly surprises when
things
> run
> too much.
>
> I am not discouraging you from buying frits and other fluxes. I just
> intuit
> that you need to learn a bit more about glaze before you set up your
> glaze
> pantry.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
> ______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Janet Price on thu 14 dec 06
Judy,
I've used an ash glaze underneath another glaze to get running glazes. I've never bothered to wash the ash, just sieve it to get big hunks of crap out. You can see the recipe and a couple examples at http://www.amherst.edu/~jkprice/potterypage.html
This is not really a web site yet. I'm in the process of putting stuff up so I can point people to it. Eventually I'll add some design and all. Maybe after I retire.
Janet Price
Veena Raghavan on thu 14 dec 06
Janet,
Your glazes look very good. The ash glaze really worked on those pieces. You
also got great results with Pete's Strontium and the turquoise is lovely.
Would you share the "pink" glaze you have on one of the ash dripped pieces?
It is a lovely rich-looking glaze, and if you wouldn't mind, I would love to
try it. Will of course fully understand if you are reluctant to do so.
Thanks for sharing
Veena
n a message dated 12/14/2006 2:45:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jmkprice@RCN.COM writes:
> I've used an ash glaze underneath another glaze to get running glazes.
> I've never bothered to wash the ash, just sieve it to get big hunks of crap out.
> You can see the recipe and a couple examples at
> http://www.amherst.edu/~jkprice/potterypage.html
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
Smith, Judy on fri 15 dec 06
These are very nice. I think I want to try this ash glaze when I begin
making my own glazes. Everyone has given me such great glazing ideas.
Thanks to all.
Judy Smith
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Veena
Raghavan
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 6:38 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Judy and the Running Glaze
Janet,
Your glazes look very good. The ash glaze really worked on those pieces.
You
also got great results with Pete's Strontium and the turquoise is
lovely.
Would you share the "pink" glaze you have on one of the ash dripped
pieces?
It is a lovely rich-looking glaze, and if you wouldn't mind, I would
love to
try it. Will of course fully understand if you are reluctant to do so.
Thanks for sharing
Veena
n a message dated 12/14/2006 2:45:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jmkprice@RCN.COM writes:
> I've used an ash glaze underneath another glaze to get running glazes.
> I've never bothered to wash the ash, just sieve it to get big hunks of
crap out.
> You can see the recipe and a couple examples at
> http://www.amherst.edu/~jkprice/potterypage.html
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Lili Krakowski on fri 15 dec 06
You can tell I have been reading too many children's-book catalogs!
To answer the questions first. You can make a line with Karo syrup, and
then sprinkle your ash or soda or borax on. You could mix these materials
with the Karo, and even add some colorant. If you want to get carried away
with yourself you can make stencils out of newspaper, dampen slightly, and
paint your mix over them, giving yourself an actual pattern. (Be sure to
remove the paper once everything is dry.
Now then.
When you apply glazes atop each other they interact. And, they interact in
two very similar ways. If the first glaze is more refractory (stiffer) than
the one atop, the top glaze will make the bottom glaze melt more than
"normal", and start to run, which is what molten glaze will do. If the two
glazes are the same, just with some colorant added, the interaction will be
small EXCEPT where the colorant is either an active flux, OR a refractory.
But it should be said that many glazes run simply from thick application.
The reason I suggested simple household products for experimentation is that
if you do not mix your own glazes you will learn very little about the
interaction of two glazes atop the other. With wood ash, borax etc. you at
least know what is doing what.
Nothing prevents you from DRYING OUT some of your commercial glaze and
ADDING a small amount of bicarb, or borax or ash to it. Don't let the lack
of a scale bother you. I do many of my glazes by volume, with a nice set of
measuring cups and spoons from the thrift shop. So if you dry out enough
commercial glaze for a cup full, you can use your 1/8 c. measurer (is this
English?) and add 1/8 t. whatever, then add 1/4 to another 1/8 cup and so
on,
Test. You should be able to develop a runny glaze from what you now have.
Furthermore: many beginning potters believe there is a law that double
application means dipping the rim into the second glaze.
This law has been repealed!!!! Try using resist and dipping part of the
pot, NOT the rim. With a set of mugs or cereal bowls try dipping the rim
(ok, ok.) but dip one pot 1/2 inch, one pot 1 inch etc. This is very nice
with sets of mugs etc because Mug Identification in Flu Season is a big big
concern!
And to all of you at miracle and wonders time, all blessings
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
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