Stephanie Wright on fri 5 jan 07
There is a description in John Britt's book, 'The Complete Guide to High
Fire Glazes' (page 142&143). Basically, you want to:
1) cut a ring from a piece of soft kiln brick. Make it the exact same size
as the foot of your pot. Your pot will sit on this piece of brick.
2) underneath the brick, put a saucer-type plate to collect any glaze
runoff. Mr. Britt says he also puts kiln wash on the saucers, so he can re-
If you have not done crystalline glazes before, you should be warned that
they are very runny. The foot of your pot will not look the same way as
with other types of glazing. When you remove the pots after firing, you
will usually have to grind the bottoms of the pots to remove any sharp
bits of glaze. And this type of glazing is not meant for functional pots
(ie, dinnerware)- it is pretty much decorative only.
Hope this helps!
beardiepaw on fri 5 jan 07
Does anyone have a picture on their website that shows how crystalline
glazed pieces are set on a catchbasin for firing? I am going to be tryin=
it soon with a couple different porcelains but I can't quite get a pic in=
mind of how to do it. Thanks =0D
Lynne and Bruce Girrell on sat 6 jan 07
>Does anyone have a picture on their website that shows how crystalline
>glazed pieces are set on a catchbasin for firing?
Fara Shimbo's site should get you going:
William & Susan Schran User on sat 6 jan 07
On 1/5/07 9:57 PM, "Stephanie Wright" wrote:
> 1) cut a ring from a piece of soft kiln brick. Make it the exact same size
> as the foot of your pot. Your pot will sit on this piece of brick.
I used this method back in the mid 1970's when that was the method suggested
by Herbert Sanders.
One must also coat the brick with kiln wash or other such refractory
If the glaze gets to the soft brick, it will melt the brick and cause the
pot to fall over - experienced that also!
William "Bill" Schran