Chris Campbell on mon 8 jan 07
Query to the wise ...
I am reading about a finish for
unglazed high fired porcelain where
the artist treats the finished work with
beeswax and turpentine.
I get the beeswax part but not the
turpentine.
Any ideas?
Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
Chris Campbell Pottery LLC
9417 Koupela Drive
Raleigh NC 27615-2233
Fine Colored Porcelain since 1989
1-800-652-1008
Fax : 919-676-2062
website: www.ccpottery.com
wholesale : www.wholesalecrafts.com
Snail Scott on mon 8 jan 07
At 03:16 PM 1/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>I am reading about a finish for
>unglazed high fired porcelain where
>the artist treats the finished work with
>beeswax and turpentine.
>I get the beeswax part but not the
>turpentine...
Turpentine thins the beeswax to a
brushable/flowable consistency, then
evaporates, allowing the beeswax to
return to its normal consistency.
Soften the beeswax with heat, and
mix in just a little turpentine at a
time. Let a sample cool periodically,
to check its workability.
Personally, I find even unthinned
beeswax to be too soft to make a good
surface, as it gets sticky and picks
up dirt for quite a while until its
natural softeners vaporize and it
gets harder. Other waxes will make a
less sticky initial coating.
-Snail
threereeds1 on mon 8 jan 07
Yes Chris,
In this case the turpentine is a vehicle. Should thin beeswax
to a brushable consistency.
Going to be odor here for a while.
Be Well,
Tom King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Campbell"
To:
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: Beeswax & Turpentine
> Query to the wise ...
>
> I am reading about a finish for
> unglazed high fired porcelain where
> the artist treats the finished work with
> beeswax and turpentine.
>
> I get the beeswax part but not the
> turpentine.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
>
>
> Chris Campbell Pottery LLC
> 9417 Koupela Drive
> Raleigh NC 27615-2233
>
> Fine Colored Porcelain since 1989
>
> 1-800-652-1008
> Fax : 919-676-2062
> website: www.ccpottery.com
> wholesale : www.wholesalecrafts.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Robert Edney on mon 8 jan 07
Typically beeswax is melted with a thinner of some sort to assist in penetration. So, I'm guessing that this potter is using turps (turpentine). If you're going to try this there are two tips: Buy your turps from an art supply and get the real thing. Secondly, heat with great care over a double boiler or in an electric fry pan. Heat slowly and use no more heat than is required to melt the mix. Too much heat and you have a blazing fire. This is a good thing to try first outdoors using a camp stove or some such thing. All in all it's an accident waiting to happen.
Robert -- who just loves peculiar mixtures
Chris Campbell wrote: Query to the wise ...
I am reading about a finish for
unglazed high fired porcelain where
the artist treats the finished work with
beeswax and turpentine.
I get the beeswax part but not the
turpentine.
Any ideas?
Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
Chris Campbell Pottery LLC
9417 Koupela Drive
Raleigh NC 27615-2233
Fine Colored Porcelain since 1989
1-800-652-1008
Fax : 919-676-2062
website: www.ccpottery.com
wholesale : www.wholesalecrafts.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Jeanie Silver on mon 8 jan 07
Hi Chris
The turpentine will thin the beeswax and make it easier to apply..
Jeanie in Pa.
Leland Hall on tue 9 jan 07
Beeswax mixed with Turpentine was a common wood finish at the turn of the
century. It was standard on the wodden stock of the 1903 Springfield rifle
of WWI, and is used still by collectors of vintage firearms and re-inactors.
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel
La Pine Oregon
John Rodgers on tue 9 jan 07
I suggest you DO NOT use a camp stove at all, but a simple electric hot
plate. A camp stove exposes any fumes to an open flame, and that could
have very bad consequences.
Low electric heat will get'ter done!
Good luck,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Robert Edney wrote:
> This is a good thing to try first outdoors using a camp stove or some such thing. All in all it's an accident waiting to happen.
>
> Robert -- who just loves peculiar mixtures
>
>
Erik Harmon on wed 10 jan 07
What about tung oil? Its now formulated to dry to either a matte, satin or high gloss effect.
Erik
Snail Scott wrote:
At 03:16 PM 1/8/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>I am reading about a finish for
>unglazed high fired porcelain where
>the artist treats the finished work with
>beeswax and turpentine.
>I get the beeswax part but not the
>turpentine...
Turpentine thins the beeswax to a
brushable/flowable consistency, then
evaporates, allowing the beeswax to
return to its normal consistency.
Soften the beeswax with heat, and
mix in just a little turpentine at a
time. Let a sample cool periodically,
to check its workability.
Personally, I find even unthinned
beeswax to be too soft to make a good
surface, as it gets sticky and picks
up dirt for quite a while until its
natural softeners vaporize and it
gets harder. Other waxes will make a
less sticky initial coating.
-Snail
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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