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antimony and vanadium

updated thu 18 jan 07

 

Chaeli Sullivan on mon 15 jan 07


Chae -
If you are aware of the health risks, I am wondering why you are using the
oxides, and not commercial ceramic stains? That would be the safe (safer)
way to approach this. There are yellow Mason stains that will give a very
strong yellow, although you identify the temperature and atmosphere of your
firing.
Good luck -
- Vince

Hi Vince
It has something to do with the learning curve. For instance, flying
small planes can be quite dangerous, yet if one learns to handle the
hazards, one can achieve great freedom. Besides, piloting our own
programs can be great fun.
Personally, i just want to color some flowers. Vanadium gives a pale
yellow by itself; antimony will produce yellow; and i wondered if the two
combined (plus a little tin oxide) would produce possibly a lemon yellow?
Thanks for your concern, though.
Chae

Paul Lewing on mon 15 jan 07


On Jan 15, 2007, at 4:03 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:

Chae wrote:
> Has anyone tried a formula for yellow by combining Vanadium and
> antimony
> in the same recipe? What about vanadium, antimony and tin oxide?
> If so,
> what amounts of each did you use?
If you are aware of the health risks, I am wondering why you are
using the
oxides, and not commercial ceramic stains? That would be the safe
(safer)
way to approach this. There are yellow Mason stains that will give a
very
strong yellow, although you identify the temperature and atmosphere
of your
firing.

I just got back on the list from being gone all weekend, so perhaps
some one else has pointed out to you that antimony will disappear out
of your glaze at about cone 01 or so. If you're firing higher than
that, you're wasting it. Or rather, you're not getting any of the
benefit of the antimony in your fired glaze, all you're getting are
the health risks to you.
Get a Mason stain chart that tells you what's in each of their
stains. Some of the yellows are tin/vanadium, and they're a very
bright, hard cool yellow. The praseodymium yellows are the lemon
yellows, and if you're looking for a really strong yellow, they're
probably not what you want. They also have some antimony yellows
which are a beautiful buttery mellow yellow, like Naples yellow, and
they will say not to fire them above a certain temperature. They
also make one other yellow stain, which I really like at cone 4.
They call it titanium yellow, although why I do not know, as they
don't list any titanium as an ingredient in it. It's actually a
chrome yellow. It's not quite as warm a color as the antimony ones,
but much warmer than the Sn/V ones and stronger than the Pr ones.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com

Vince Pitelka on tue 16 jan 07


Chae wrote:
> It has something to do with the learning curve. For instance, flying
> small planes can be quite dangerous, yet if one learns to handle the
> hazards, one can achieve great freedom. Besides, piloting our own
> programs can be great fun.
> Personally, i just want to color some flowers. Vanadium gives a pale
> yellow by itself; antimony will produce yellow; and i wondered if the two
> combined (plus a little tin oxide) would produce possibly a lemon yellow?

Chae -
Well, then why not use underglazes to achieve the colors, and use the bright
yellow mason stains to get the yellow you want? It isn't a matter of the
learning curve. It's a matter of being safe. Antimony and vanadiam have
been purged from most glaze labs, and rightly so.
Best wishes -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/