liz gowen on fri 19 jan 07
I am at long last in the process of putting gas heat in my new glazing
/electric kiln shed and at the same time having the gas line run for my
outdoor LP gas kiln. ( the latter bought several years ago but never hooked
up since I had to move inbetween)
I am concerned with all the 4 and 5 foot sections of black pipe we need to
use to make the run.It seems to me with all the connections each one is a
potential place for gas to leak. The installer said the pipe dope should
prevent this but we can't pressure test it 'till the gas is hooked up.
The 15 foot underground run to the kiln will be sitting in water due to the
high water table at least at this time of year. Is this a problem with the
black pipe?
Any thoughts for things to check for my peace of mind.
Liz Gowen
Paul Borian on fri 19 jan 07
i would use soft copper for the sections underground, that's what i did
when i had gas burners, then use the appropriate adapters once it gets
inside to connect it to black pipe. Use pipe dope and if you are really
worried about leaks take an extra section of pipe, a few feet long, and
attach it to your pipe wrench for leverage and crank the fittings down with
all the might you and whoever else is around can get, then some. Don't go
that far with the soft copper, but for black iron you can give it all you
have, that's what i just did when i plumbed compressed air lines throughout
my buildings a few weeks ago - i wrenched those things down as hard as i
possibly could, and no leaks.
Attach a ball valve right at the tank so if there are leaks you can easily
shut it down - that's probably a regulation anyway but i just thought to
mention it.
Paul
WJ Seidl on fri 19 jan 07
Liz:
You CAN check for leaks without hooking up the gas. Go to your nearest
hardware store and buy a "Schrader valve" and a pressure gauge. A Schrader
valve looks like a tire air valve, and will set you back about $10. The
pressure gauge is about $25. Then, it is a simple matter of running all the
piping, from start to finish. Cap the end near the kiln, and at the other
end, install a tee. One end of the tee gets a cap or adapter drilled to fit
that Schrader valve in the end. The second side of the tee gets a pressure
valve, and the third end goes on your new gas line. Pressurize it with air
(a bicycle pump or compressor will work fine) to about 40psi. If it does
not leak more than 5 pounds in 24 hours, you're good to go. When you have
everything under pressure, spray soapy water on the fittings and look for
bubbles. Fix any leaks you find, then pressurize it again and wait. Once it
passes, remove the tee and the cap from the other end and hook it up to the
kiln and the gas source.
Our water table (sea water) is about three feet. Our gas company requires
us to coat black pipe completely with roofing tar for any pipe that will be
buried. (20 years later, no rust to be seen. Yeah, I'm anal enough to have
dug some back up and checked ). Check with your gas company to see what
your area requires. It's truly messy work, use disposable brushes, wear old
clothes, gloves, and keep your hair tied back and tucked in, and a hat.
That's what the plumbers and gas techs around here do. A few bucks for
peace of mind? Priceless.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of liz gowen
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 11:12 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Piping a gas kiln
I am at long last in the process of putting gas heat in my new glazing
/electric kiln shed and at the same time having the gas line run for my
outdoor LP gas kiln. ( the latter bought several years ago but never hooked
up since I had to move inbetween)
I am concerned with all the 4 and 5 foot sections of black pipe we need to
use to make the run.It seems to me with all the connections each one is a
potential place for gas to leak. The installer said the pipe dope should
prevent this but we can't pressure test it 'till the gas is hooked up.
The 15 foot underground run to the kiln will be sitting in water due to the
high water table at least at this time of year. Is this a problem with the
black pipe?
Any thoughts for things to check for my peace of mind.
Liz Gowen
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Vince Pitelka on fri 19 jan 07
> I am concerned with all the 4 and 5 foot sections of black pipe we need to
> use to make the run.It seems to me with all the connections each one is a
> potential place for gas to leak. The installer said the pipe dope should
> prevent this but we can't pressure test it 'till the gas is hooked up.
Liz -
Properly assembled tapered pipe fittings, assembled with pipe sealant or
Teflon tape, simply never leak, at all. Almost all leaks in gas plumbing
happen from carelessly assembled joints, at valves or unions (the swivel
joint that allows a run of pipe to be disconnected in the center or at an
appliance without disassembling the whole thing from one end), or at joints
that have somehow been seriously overheated.
Sure you can pressure test your pipe before the gas is hooked up. At one
end of the run and at all the appliance hookups (heater, etc.) install pipe
caps over the ends of the pipe (using pipe sealant or teflon tape), but
leave the end open where the kiln is to be hooked up. On that end, install
a ball valve (the kind with a stainless steel ball closure and a handle that
rotates only 90 degrees). At the other end of the ball valve install a
bushing reducer down to 1/4" pipe and install a male air chuck nipple. Snap
on an air hose connected to your or a borrowed air compressor, pump the pipe
up to 50 lbs. or so, shut the valve, test all the joints with a watery soap
suds solution, and watch for the growth of foam. If there is a minor leak,
it will grow a small accumulation of white foam. If there is a larger leak,
you'll see it bubbling.
If your installation has to pass inspection, then it is likely that the
inspector will pressure-test the gas line. If you want to do that yourself,
proceed as above, but then install a "T" on the end of the line, with a
100-lb pressure gauge screwed into a bushing reducer in the side branch, and
the hookup as described above in the end. Pump the line up to whatever
pressure the inspector is going to use, close the valve, let it sit
overnight, and see if the pressure has dropped at all. It is possible that
there will be minor leakage back through the valve. I have the same fitting
that the inspectors use - it fits into a 1/4" pipe bushing, and has a valve
stem on it exactly like the tires of your car, so you just pump it up with a
tire-filler attachment on an air compressor, and when you remove the filler,
the seal is absolutely positive. If you really want to do the pressure test
properly, you might have to come up with one of those.
You could probably just settle for the soap-suds test, and then wait to let
the inspector pressure test it.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Dan Saultman on fri 19 jan 07
Soft copper piping at the diameter needed for a gas kiln is not soft at
all. It will fold or kink on you. Even using a large pipe bender isn't
easy with this stuff. I went to my gas company and had them make a
length of their special plastic pipe. If you go this route, it should
have the appropriate fittings fused to each end. It bends around
curves, is light weight and better than copper in my view. I had a
friend try copper and had a real tough time making bends and curves.
Dan Saultman
Detroit
On Jan 19, 2007, at 3:17 PM, Paul Borian wrote:
> i would use soft copper for the sections underground, that's what i did
> when i had gas burners, then use the appropriate adapters once it gets
> inside to connect it to black pipe.
> Paul
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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>
Paul Borian on sat 20 jan 07
just to clarify about the response i gave, it wasn't just some nonsense i
made but instead was how i was told to do it by the gas company that
inspected my kiln; and the soft copper lines going from the tank to the
house are burried as well, i just used some larger soft copper for the
kiln, i believe it was 5/8", and fired at least 50 times with burners that
could produce up to 600,000 btu's each with no problems.
the comment that "soft copper is not soft" is really a strange thing to say
when you consider it comes in rolls when you buy it - of course you can't
bend it 90 degrees but anyone with common sense and a flaring tool can
figure it out.
Still, i like the idea of coating black pipe with roofing tar, i had never
thought of that.
Paul
d goldsobel on sat 20 jan 07
There is no reason to use copper for an underground run for gas. The gas
company uses a heavy duty, deep burial, yellow, non metallic pipe that is
seamless and totally flexible. It can only be installed by certified
installers, but there are only two joints, where it starts and where it
ends, all else is from a single coil.
I know of no reason it couldn't be used with LP.
Donald
----- Original Message -----
From: "liz gowen"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 8:11 AM
Subject: Piping a gas kiln
>I am at long last in the process of putting gas heat in my new glazing
> /electric kiln shed and at the same time having the gas line run for my
> outdoor LP gas kiln. ( the latter bought several years ago but never
> hooked
> up since I had to move inbetween)
>
> I am concerned with all the 4 and 5 foot sections of black pipe we need to
> use to make the run.It seems to me with all the connections each one is a
> potential place for gas to leak. The installer said the pipe dope should
> prevent this but we can't pressure test it 'till the gas is hooked up.
>
> The 15 foot underground run to the kiln will be sitting in water due to
> the
> high water table at least at this time of year. Is this a problem with the
> black pipe?
>
> Any thoughts for things to check for my peace of mind.
> Liz Gowen
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ingeborg on sat 20 jan 07
Make sure that black pipe is legal where you live. Here in SW Florida you
have to use galvanized pipe. I had to completely redo the plumbing in order
for it to pass inspection. Now, you are hard pressed to find black pipe
anywhere. I personally would try to avoid putting a long run of pipe
underground, if at all possible.
Ingeborg
3058 Stringfellow Road
P.O. Box 510
Saint James City, FL 33956
http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
> What I've read from Vince and Wayne makes excellent sense, and I can add
> nothing to their posts, with the exception of one thing. Way back when
> (1980) I built a kiln that needed it's supply line pipe to be buried
> underground in a moist environment. The utility company had us attach an
> "anode bag" to the line, which I was told somehow rectified the charges on
> the pipe and reduced corrosion over time. They approved it, and we never
> had a leak over the seven years I was associated with that kiln.
> What I know about black iron pipe is that Cincinnati, where I lived at the
> time, had laid it's initial gas lines down in the 1880s, to supply homes
> with natural gas for lighting and such, and that in the 1980s they were
> beginning to replace many of the initial lines. So they can last for a
> while.
> Good luck,
> Richard Aerni
> Rochester, NY
>
>>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sat 20 jan 07
Hi Richard,
Likely the Gas Pipes layed down in Cincinnatti in
the 1880s will still outlast many lain since.
I do not know off hand, but I imagine these were
Iron Pipes, wrapped in Tarred Jute, or Tarred
Canvas oe Muslin strips or something along those
lines, and Tarred finally both in in lengths and
for all joins.
If done well, and if the Gas going through them is
dessicated, and if Galvanic considerations are
dealt with or avoided, this would indeed last
pretty well 'for ever'...and long out last any
form of plastic pipe as is used now.
If the Pharos of old Aegypt had set about having
such Gas Lines, likely they's still be decent
enough to still use to-day at these 'low'
pressures.
Too, the pressures of Main Supply Lines are of
course much greater than those secondary or rather
tertiary lines we use for going from some Gas
source, to our Kilns or other appliances.
One could likely use an old Garden Hose and bury
it some ways and have it last a decade or more,
maybe much more, with no leaks, at the pressures
it would have supplying Gas to a Kiln...though of
course I would not recmmend that, but my point is,
that such a 'run' is hardly demanding of the Pipes
compared to high pressure situations.
I ran a very VERY 'old' Red-Rubber and Canvas
textured Compressed Air Hose, some fourty feet
worth, as an extempore Water 'Pipe', ten years
ago, at least, and it is still holding just
fine...not 'Code' of course, but it works...and
this is with full Water Line pressure in it 24/7,
and with it "freezing" off and on each Winter (
which was some of my motive, as the previous Pipes
through the Attic here used to freeze and burst,
so)...that, and no 'Galvanic' troubles with that
puppy either...Lol...and likely it will still be
fine fifty years from now for that matter.
I think if I was doing it for myself, and without
Codes pestering me, I would just use some old Air
Hose of sufficient I.D. for the intended
volume/flow/pressure needs, run my Gas in it,
underground or as may be, and be a happy boy, with
no worries on rust, galvanic corrosions, or leaks
"ever"...and it would make 'easy' bends too...but,
that's just me, and of course everyone must decide
for themselves how they want something to be, or
who they have to answer to about it.
Anyway,
Fun stuff...
Phil
las vages
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Aerni"
> What I've read from Vince and Wayne makes
excellent sense, and I can add
> nothing to their posts, with the exception of
one thing. Way back when
> (1980) I built a kiln that needed it's supply
line pipe to be buried
> underground in a moist environment. The utility
company had us attach an
> "anode bag" to the line, which I was told
somehow rectified the charges on
> the pipe and reduced corrosion over time. They
approved it, and we never
> had a leak over the seven years I was associated
with that kiln.
> What I know about black iron pipe is that
Cincinnati, where I lived at the
> time, had laid it's initial gas lines down in
the 1880s, to supply homes
> with natural gas for lighting and such, and that
in the 1980s they were
> beginning to replace many of the initial lines.
So they can last for a while.
> Good luck,
> Richard Aerni
> Rochester, NY
Richard Aerni on sat 20 jan 07
What I've read from Vince and Wayne makes excellent sense, and I can add
nothing to their posts, with the exception of one thing. Way back when
(1980) I built a kiln that needed it's supply line pipe to be buried
underground in a moist environment. The utility company had us attach an
"anode bag" to the line, which I was told somehow rectified the charges on
the pipe and reduced corrosion over time. They approved it, and we never
had a leak over the seven years I was associated with that kiln.
What I know about black iron pipe is that Cincinnati, where I lived at the
time, had laid it's initial gas lines down in the 1880s, to supply homes
with natural gas for lighting and such, and that in the 1980s they were
beginning to replace many of the initial lines. So they can last for a while.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Rochester, NY
Ingeborg on sun 21 jan 07
Got a surprise "inspection" and got written up for
> several things, among which is that they insisted
> it ALL had to be "Black" Iron Pipe.
Hi Phil,
That proves my point, all of these blankety blank.........people who work in
these departments don't know what it is they are talking about.
Unfortunately, ones life is in their hands. Presently I am more sensitive
than ever since I am just about to finish a major addition/remodel and for
once I did it all legal. I really regret it too since I have had nothing
but grief over stupid irrelevant stuff.
The black pipe I had in the Pacific Norwest going from the tank to my kiln
went underground. It was not fancy like Vince said it needed to be but then
it was installed in 1980 I think. When I disassembled everything I had
water in the pipe and a lot of corrosion. I would not put it underground if
it could be helped. It is just easier to get at things if they are above
ground. You Phil are quite a character. Why didn't I think to spray the
pipe a galvanized color. I'm just not clever enough but I suspect it would
have worked.
I had an underground propane tank removed on our Florida home site. They
still put them underground if you want but I think that is a bad idea as
well. Things have a way of rusting here and underground you really can't
tell what is happening. My propane tank at the shop is a constant hassle.
My dealer told me to maintain it if I want it to last. Maintain it means
you constantly have to pour ospo on the rust spots and spray paint. Now how
it rusts just sitting there is beyond me especially since it was new when it
was installed. But rust it does right before your eyes. It is
unbelievable.
Take care
Ingeborg
3058 Stringfellow Road
P.O. Box 510
Saint James City, FL 33956
http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
Ingeborg on sun 21 jan 07
I am sorry to contradict your statements, but this information needs to be
> clear. Of course I believe what you are saying about your experience in
> Florida, but it's apparent that codes differ widely in some parts of the
> country. But my experience comes from plumbing kilns in California,
> Massachusetts, North Dakota, and Tennessee, and in those cases the code
> plumbing requirements were almost the same - always black iron.
> - Vince
>Vince,
I understand what you are saying but...
Trust me, I am not making this up Vince. Many of the rules are really silly
and expensive adding a burden on the person trying to comply. I only wanted
to warn the person doing the plumbing to not end up like me and have to redo
everything which is costly and aggravating. In other words check before you
proceed.
as I have mentioned in previous posts things are pretty much amok down here
in SW Florida. I had black pipe for over 20 years but when I moved all of
my equipment to SW Florida I was told it would not pass the code. At that
time you could still buy black pipe at Home Depot. Regardless, in order for
me to get my kiln approved legally, I had to change all of the plumbing. I
was not too happy to be sure. The inspector passed it and then I had to
have the fire inspector pass it. The fire inspector said he didn't care
about the pipe and as far as he was concerned black pipe would have been
fine. I complied with their silly rules (really had no choice) and my
kiln is all legal and "grandfathered in" as they say down here.
Galvanized pipe cost considerably more as well. Now 5+ years later you
simply cannot find black pipe. I guess because of the codes it isn't worth
it for Home Depot to carry it, no one is buying it. For all I know this is
it just in Lee County but it is fact if you don't believe me you can call
the county code department.
Ingeborg
3058 Stringfellow Road
P.O. Box 510
Saint James City, FL 33956
http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
>
WJ Seidl on sun 21 jan 07
Richard:
I spent some time in the mid 70's working for my uncle in Southern
California. He worked for Shell, at the refinery, and one of his jobs was
cathodic protection. I learned a great deal (the least of which is climbing
into pipes to scour out the insides of sludge; I hated that job, but I
digress). Without going into too much detail, the substance traveling
through the pipe creates a minute electrical charge which must be dissipated
(or it causes the charge to bleed off material from the pipe, essentially
making the pipe a "cathode", or emitter. Hence the name "cathodic
protection".
The anode bag will work well, but only if you ensure that _each_ pipe in the
line is similarly protected. Joints coated with Teflon tape or pipe dope
will not allow the conduction of electrons and will tend to "isolate" each
section, which means that while one is protected, the other continues to
erode. Put zinc or a similar "soft" metal in the bag, or just use a bar of
it, attached to the pipe with a coated wire. Be sure the wire has a good
electrical connection on the pipe and the anode, and coat it with tar or
something to preserve the connection. Do not coat the bar more than you must
to ensure the electrical connection is preserved. This method is still used
to protect buried metallic pipelines (of all kinds) and electrical conduits.
If anyone is interested, there is a wealth of information available online.
Just Google "cathodic protection".
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Richard Aerni
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 8:16 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Piping a gas kiln
What I've read from Vince and Wayne makes excellent sense, and I can add
nothing to their posts, with the exception of one thing. Way back when
(1980) I built a kiln that needed it's supply line pipe to be buried
underground in a moist environment. The utility company had us attach an
"anode bag" to the line, which I was told somehow rectified the charges on
the pipe and reduced corrosion over time. They approved it, and we never
had a leak over the seven years I was associated with that kiln.
What I know about black iron pipe is that Cincinnati, where I lived at the
time, had laid it's initial gas lines down in the 1880s, to supply homes
with natural gas for lighting and such, and that in the 1980s they were
beginning to replace many of the initial lines. So they can last for a
while.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Rochester, NY
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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melpots@pclink.com.
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sun 21 jan 07
Hi Ingeborg,
Funny stuff for sure.
When I had my little Pottery Studio in a little
free standing building at the back of the Property
here, I ran quite a bit of Galvanized 3/4 Pipe (
old, used stuff I got free along with lot of
elbows and so on) for the Water to the Sink ( with
a nice Clay Trap of course, ) and for the Toilet.
Got a surprise "inspection" and got written up for
several things, among which is that they insisted
it ALL had to be "Black" Iron Pipe.
So, I thought to myself "Allrighty then, 'black'
it shall be..."
And, so...I rounded up a laying around half full
Aerosol Can of some cheap Black spray Paint, used
a piece of scrap cardboard for a shield to keep
the paint off the white walls which the Pipes ran
across, and I just gently misted the pipes a few
times over a day or two, till by golly they were a
nice dull "Black"...
Inspector shows up a few days later, intending to
look for more fault finding opportunities, and was
so pleased and impressed to see that all them
pipes had been done over with "Black" ones...he
seemed like a new man.
Now, in theory, a boy or girl could also clean
Black Iron Pipes nicely, with some Steel Wool and
Lacquer thinner or something, and, deftly, gently,
spray them with a cold-process Aerosol 'Galvi', or
a convinceing 'paint', and similarly, come out
smelling Like-a-Rose, if one were so disposed
anyway...and or if it suited one's humor.
Now of course all this depends on the actual
pragmatic rationalle for the specific use-context
or application, and whether what some inspector is
demanding something which DOES make good sense, or
is merely some arbitrary indifferent
nonsense...whether one owns the property or
whatever else as may enter into one's decisions.
And in my situation, I felt fine with the
resolution of course.
I myself would not feel easy having any kind of
Galvi or Black Iron Pipe 'in the ground' ( in any
kind of ground around here anyway, ) unless I
tarred it, wrapped it in tarred Muslin or Canvas
strips in spirals, and tarred the whole and all
the joins prior to inturning it.
They can keep their silly 'tape' stuff and all
the rest. I have seen plenty of situations where
"that" ( like everything else in Life) was only as
good as who did it, oronly as 'good' AS the Tape
itself, and a lot of times it was no 'good' at
all...and or Tree Roots get into it via the
tinyest hint of entry-opportunity in the tape
winds, which then later leads to Water getting in
and all the rest...but of course it 'passed'
inspections and was 'code'...it "looked" allright
at-a-glance, or it 'had' the 'tape' on it anyway.
Even if the special 'tape' also gets brittle
sometimes over time, wasput on too 'cold', and all
the rest.
And I would not feel easy to ever use them to
plumb a House or other Building where the region
has a reputation for corrosions and galvanic
deteriorations ( like this area has) unless I
installed Galvanic Corrosion blocks in the right
places to prevent or lessen it as much as
possible. Yet, there are no 'codes' for that,
(well, might be for BIG buildings, but not for
small ones) and people's "met code" ( gas or
water) pipes rot in many cases, just like they
always did around here.
Love,
Phil
el v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ingeborg"
> Make sure that black pipe is legal where you
live. Here in SW Florida you
> have to use galvanized pipe. I had to
completely redo the plumbing in order
> for it to pass inspection. Now, you are hard
pressed to find black pipe
> anywhere. I personally would try to avoid
putting a long run of pipe
> underground, if at all possible.
>
>
> Ingeborg
>
> 3058 Stringfellow Road
> P.O. Box 510
> Saint James City, FL 33956
>
> http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
>
>
>
> > What I've read from Vince and Wayne makes
excellent sense, and I can add
> > nothing to their posts, with the exception of
one thing. Way back when
> > (1980) I built a kiln that needed it's supply
line pipe to be buried
> > underground in a moist environment. The
utility company had us attach an
> > "anode bag" to the line, which I was told
somehow rectified the charges on
> > the pipe and reduced corrosion over time.
They approved it, and we never
> > had a leak over the seven years I was
associated with that kiln.
> > What I know about black iron pipe is that
Cincinnati, where I lived at the
> > time, had laid it's initial gas lines down in
the 1880s, to supply homes
> > with natural gas for lighting and such, and
that in the 1980s they were
> > beginning to replace many of the initial
lines. So they can last for a
> > while.
> > Good luck,
> > Richard Aerni
> > Rochester, NY
> >
> >>
>
>
__________________________________________________
____________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or
change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Vince Pitelka on sun 21 jan 07
> Make sure that black pipe is legal where you live. Here in SW Florida you
> have to use galvanized pipe. I had to completely redo the plumbing in
> order
> for it to pass inspection. Now, you are hard pressed to find black pipe
> anywhere. I personally would try to avoid putting a long run of pipe
> underground, if at all possible.
Ingeborg -
I don't know what the standards are in SW Florida, but almost everywhere
else, black iron pipe is the code standard for assembled runs of natural gas
piping. Before PVC, galvanized is what was always used for water pipe in
the past, and was never used for natural gas. Black iron pipe is readily
available almost everywhere, and is quite inexpensive.
There is no reason at all to not put a long run of pipe underground. Code
generally requires that it either be the black iron pipe that comes already
coated with plastic (in which case the joints still need to be wrapped with
tape), or else that the whole run be wrapped with approved plastic pipe wrap
tape.
I am sorry to contradict your statements, but this information needs to be
clear. Of course I believe what you are saying about your experience in
Florida, but it's apparent that codes differ widely in some parts of the
country. But my experience comes from plumbing kilns in California,
Massachusetts, North Dakota, and Tennessee, and in those cases the code
plumbing requirements were almost the same - always black iron.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Marcia Selsor on mon 22 jan 07
Vince,
The Montana gas company installed my last kiln hooki up pvc
gray pipe from the meter to a junction and then black pipe. So I
guess codes vary everywhere,
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
snip
>
> I am sorry to contradict your statements, but this information
> needs to be
> clear. Of course I believe what you are saying about your
> experience in
> Florida, but it's apparent that codes differ widely in some parts
> of the
> country. But my experience comes from plumbing kilns in California,
> Massachusetts, North Dakota, and Tennessee, and in those cases the
> code
> plumbing requirements were almost the same - always black iron.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Ivor and Olive Lewis on tue 23 jan 07
Dear Phil,
Late 1968-9 They started to replace Coal Gas with Natural Gas in =
Sunderland, UK.
A year later there was an explosion, sounding like a 500 lb bomb =
detonating and a second about two months later. Both demolished houses, =
raised them to the ground. Just like the Blitz.
Turned out that, without having wet gas, the packed joints dried out and =
there was a slow seepage of gas. This collected in the cellars and when =
the concentration got high enough ... one spark...Bbooomm...Take no =
chances with gas installations.
Best regards,=20
Ivor
liz gowen on wed 24 jan 07
I was finally able to find out that code here in De. is galvanized pipe for
above ground outside and either wrapped galvanized or plastic for below
ground. Guess I get to start over, I want it right for gas. Thanks for
everyone's input.
Liz Gowen
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