Victoria E. Hamilton on tue 30 jan 07
Jeanette -
Yes please. I'd love to have that diagram.
Thanks.
Vicki Hamilton
Millennia Antica Pottery
Seattle, WA
vicki@millennia-antica.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Jeanette Harris
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 3:21 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] lids that are flush to body
>hello,
> i searched the archives, but couldn't find the earlier post. there
>was a post maybe a year ago about making lids that are flush with the
>body. like the lids on the small jars warren mackenzie makes. it was a
>teachnique for cutting through the form and then cutting some parts out
>(?) to make a lid that lies flush with the body. does anyone know how
>to do this?
> thanks,
> samm
Hi, Samm,
Can your computer receive Word 98? I have a one-page diagram I could send
you via email if you want. Also can send it to anyone else on CLAYART
that's interested.
Cheers,
Jeanette
--
Jeanette Harris
Clay Engineer
Poulsbo WA
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sam bucus on tue 30 jan 07
hello,
i searched the archives, but couldn't find the earlier post. there was a post maybe a year ago about making lids that are flush with the body. like the lids on the small jars warren mackenzie makes. it was a teachnique for cutting through the form and then cutting some parts out (?) to make a lid that lies flush with the body. does anyone know how to do this?
thanks,
samm
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Jeanette Harris on tue 30 jan 07
>hello,
> i searched the archives, but couldn't find the earlier post. there
>was a post maybe a year ago about making lids that are flush with
>the body. like the lids on the small jars warren mackenzie makes. it
>was a teachnique for cutting through the form and then cutting some
>parts out (?) to make a lid that lies flush with the body. does
>anyone know how to do this?
> thanks,
> samm
Hi, Samm,
Can your computer receive Word 98? I have a one-page diagram I could
send you via email if you want. Also can send it to anyone else on
CLAYART that's interested.
Cheers,
Jeanette
--
Jeanette Harris
Clay Engineer
Poulsbo WA
Timothy Joko-Veltman on tue 30 jan 07
Hi Sam,
If I understand you correctly, then this is how I would go about it:
1. Throw a closed pot.
2. When it's leather-hard, decide where you want the body to end and
the lid to begin. Score a line with a needle or narrow blade where
you wish to separate the lid from the body. One way to help keep the
lid on the body is to make the cut at an approximate angle of 45deg.
toward the bottom of the pot. Irregularities, ie., curves, or teeth,
in the cut will also have a similar effect.
3. If you wish, you can make a gallery, by taking a thin (but even)
coil or strip of clay, score and slip the inside lip (or outside lip,
if you're so inclined) of either the lid or the pot. Attach the
coil/strip, center the pot (as though you were going to trim the
inside), and then with a very small amount of water, smooth out the
coil/strip, making it look like it was there all along. Before taking
the pot from the wheel, make sure the lid fits properly, and the new
"lip" doesn't interfere with the fit. When all's the way you want
it, let the piece dry SLOWly.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Tim
David Berg on tue 30 jan 07
I think you might be asking about the technique shown in this
Pottery Making Illustrated article from July/August 2005.
http://www.potterymaking.org/pmipc/JulyAugust0502.pdf
David
David Berg
dberg2@comcast.net
http://bergstoneware.com/
On Jan 30, 2007, at 5:42 PM, sam bucus wrote:
> hello,
> i searched the archives, but couldn't find the earlier post.
> there was a post maybe a year ago about making lids that are flush
> with the body. like the lids on the small jars warren mackenzie
> makes. it was a teachnique for cutting through the form and then
> cutting some parts out (?) to make a lid that lies flush with the
> body. does anyone know how to do this?
> thanks,
> samm
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Chris Trabka on tue 30 jan 07
Sam,
I believe Bill van Gilder's new book "Wheel-Thrown Pottery" has an example
of how to make a closed form, put in a substantial grove and then open and
finish the form.
Chris
Victoria E. Hamilton on fri 2 feb 07
Deborah -
Thank you for this. I've been trying to figure out how to explain this to
my class. My drawings (2-D) are certainly wanting.
We've got Jeanette's pictures of this. Thanks for the explanation.
Vicki Hamilton
Millennia Antica Pottery
Seattle, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Deborah Woods
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 6:45 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: [CLAYART] lids that are flush to body
Hi. I have another idea. I hope I can explain it well. I learned it from a
guy named Mike at Laconia Pottery, in Laconia New Hampshire.
1. Throw a closed form. You might not want to make it too thin.
2. While it is still on the wheel and wet, take a tool, something say like a
popsicle stick that the end is flat on, or something like it. Hold it up to
the spinning pot where you want the lid separation, and start to press it
into the pot. One piece of advice, you have to learn by experience how far
to go to creat the flange, without going so far that the lid starts to
collapse. So expect to loose a few pots at first. That's it, set the pot
aside for a while.
3. When the pot is leather-ish hard, put it back on the wheel, and while it
is turning, take a needle tool and cut through the bottom of the indentation
where it meets the bottom part of the pot, so what you are left with is two
pieces, one the top with a flange, and the bottom. You might have to smooth
the edges a little, but done well, this works really well.
Deborah Woods
jupitersmoonpottery.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Deborah Woods on fri 2 feb 07
Hi. I have another idea. I hope I can explain it well. I learned it from a
guy named Mike at Laconia Pottery, in Laconia New Hampshire.
1. Throw a closed form. You might not want to make it too thin.
2. While it is still on the wheel and wet, take a tool, something say like
a popsicle stick that the end is flat on, or something like it. Hold it up
to the spinning pot where you want the lid separation, and start to press
it into the pot. One piece of advice, you have to learn by experience how
far to go to creat the flange, without going so far that the lid starts to
collapse. So expect to loose a few pots at first. That's it, set the pot
aside for a while.
3. When the pot is leather-ish hard, put it back on the wheel, and while
it is turning, take a needle tool and cut through the bottom of the
indentation where it meets the bottom part of the pot, so what you are
left with is two pieces, one the top with a flange, and the bottom. You
might have to smooth the edges a little, but done well, this works really
well.
Deborah Woods
jupitersmoonpottery.com
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