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standard brick

updated sun 18 feb 07

 

shane mickey on thu 8 feb 07


hey all,
just was reading this thread, some thoughts from someone who deals with brick alot. first if you want the kiln to last use appropriate brick ie super duty or at least highduty. do not skimp on your kiln it will come back to bite you in the ass for sure! as to cutting the brick, i see no reason to use chisels inthis day and age. you can rent a wet tile saw from any equipment rental for like $30 day ask for a segmented or turbo diamond blace, solid diamond blades do not work. or harbor frieght sells a shitty chicago electric 10" wet tile saw for $200, i bought one two years ago and it is still going, built several hard brick kilns with it, cut thousands of brick with it. also if you go this route ebay has stores with cheap diamond blades, remember segmented or turbo. do not pay over $80 for a diamond blade, my local hardware store carries the felker brand, well respected, only $40.

shane mickey
shane mickey pottery and kiln design services





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W J Seidl on thu 8 feb 07


Shane:
That brought a laugh. I've purchased many Harbor Freight tools over the
years, have had good luck with most, poor luck with a few others. I'm
getting ready to check the lateral run out on my new Jeep brake rotors with
one of their "shitty" dial indicators mounted on one of their "shitty"
stands...10 years old now and still working fine...$12 for the indicator and
stand when I bought it.) The Jeep is up on their jack stands, too. Oooooh,
I'm afraid!

I too have one of those "shitty" tile saws. Cost me $99, IIRC, with the
stand. It's the worst shade of orange I've ever seen. Mel would love it.
With that lousy saw, I have completely tiled the floors on a 1500 sq ft
house (porcelain tile, not that soft earthenware stuff), made three granite
cutting boards (from leftover kitchen counter scraps), and tiled the walls
of three bathrooms. Two friends have borrowed it as well, and tiled floors
with it. It's still on it's original blade. I still have the spare blade in
its original bubble wrap that I bought when I bought the saw.
Not too shabby for a "shitty" tool .

Cheap does not always mean "poor quality". Look at what most of us sell
pots for!

Best,
Wayne Seidl

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of shane mickey
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:54 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: standard brick

hey all,
just was reading this thread, some thoughts from someone who deals with
brick alot. first if you want the kiln to last use appropriate brick ie
super duty or at least highduty. do not skimp on your kiln it will come back
to bite you in the ass for sure! as to cutting the brick, i see no reason to
use chisels inthis day and age. you can rent a wet tile saw from any
equipment rental for like $30 day ask for a segmented or turbo diamond
blace, solid diamond blades do not work. or harbor frieght sells a shitty
chicago electric 10" wet tile saw for $200, i bought one two years ago and
it is still going, built several hard brick kilns with it, cut thousands of
brick with it. also if you go this route ebay has stores with cheap diamond
blades, remember segmented or turbo. do not pay over $80 for a diamond
blade, my local hardware store carries the felker brand, well respected,
only $40.

shane mickey
shane mickey pottery and kiln design services





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Megamelon on fri 9 feb 07


Thanks for the tips, folks. I have a job interview this morning, then =
I'll drive up to see that brick. Expecting my Thomas Stuart Revolution =
to arrive today or tomorrow.

I would just buy brick new at the prices you've paid- just that I =
haven't found it nearly that cheap here (we don't seem to make =
refractory bricks here... could be the soil). So far- 2.10 a brick for =
IFB's in 1000 qty is the cheapest I've found.

I think that my brother owns a wet saw that I could use if needed (or =
rent- I'm becoming a big fan of renting stuff... running out of space).

You'd think I was going pro with all the time and money I'm spending =
(I'm a chemist/scientist). I'm sure that I'll have to sell some pots =
just to make room for more once I get set up and practiced :)

Andy Misner on fri 9 feb 07


I can agree with Mickey, as somebody who deals with firebrick and refractory
on a daily basis. It is asking for trouble to cheap out on the brick. You
won't be happy with them, and they wont last.

Andy Misner
www.indfirebrick.com


On Thu, 8 Feb 2007 08:53:42 -0500, shane mickey wrote:

>hey all,
>just was reading this thread, some thoughts from someone who deals with
brick alot. first if you want the kiln to last use appropriate brick ie
super duty or at least highduty. do not skimp on your kiln it will come back
to bite you in the ass for sure! as to cutting the brick, i see no reason to
use chisels inthis day and age. you can rent a wet tile saw from any
equipment rental for like $30 day ask for a segmented or turbo diamond
blace, solid diamond blades do not work. or harbor frieght sells a shitty
chicago electric 10" wet tile saw for $200, i bought one two years ago and
it is still going, built several hard brick kilns with it, cut thousands of
brick with it. also if you go this route ebay has stores with cheap diamond
blades, remember segmented or turbo. do not pay over $80 for a diamond
blade, my local hardware store carries the felker brand, well respected,
only $40.
>
>shane mickey
>shane mickey pottery and kiln design services
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Megamelon on sat 10 feb 07


I went and took a look at that brick- the used stuff was branded Orvis =
and Hiheat. They had new stuff there as well: Zed HD, Corundite 462, =
and arch bricks stamped Temple (tapered for 9" thick arch). =20

Like you folks said- the used ones were a bit dissapointing. Few had =
all 8 corners on them and most had mortar of some sort to remove. =20

I just put in for a quote on new brick to the local masonry supply =
place. Hopefully I can get away with at least one arm and one leg =
intact.

I'm working on a downdraft idea with 2 Bourry boxes rather than the =
Olsen fastfire design. It'll be a while before the ground thaws here in =
NH anyway, so I have lots of time to think and consult on it.

Thanks,
-pH

Gary Navarre on thu 15 feb 07


Hi Folks,

Guess I'll jump back in...

On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 08:48:27 -0500, Andy Misner
wrote:

>I can agree with Mickey, as somebody who deals with firebrick and
refractory
>on a daily basis. It is asking for trouble to cheap out on the brick. You
>won't be happy with them, and they wont last.
>
>Andy Misner
>www.indfirebrick.com

First a shout out to you folke in Grand Rapids, right, Industrial
Firebrick. I got some remnents of Fiberfrax blanket from ya'll back in the
late '80's for the wood burner...

http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/hobagama_1986-90/fb.html

Wanna save me some more and I'll pick it up on my next trip down below?
Small world ah!


>On Thu, 8 Feb 2007 08:53:42 -0500, shane mickey
wrote:
>
>>hey all,

> as to cutting the brick, i see no reason to
>use chisels inthis day and age. you can rent a wet tile saw from any
>equipment rental for like $30 day ask for a segmented or turbo diamond
>blace, solid diamond blades do not work. or harbor frieght sells a shitty
>chicago electric 10" wet tile saw for $200, i bought one two years ago and
>it is still going, built several hard brick kilns with it, cut thousands
of
>brick with it. also if you go this route ebay has stores with cheap
diamond
>blades, remember segmented or turbo. do not pay over $80 for a diamond
>blade, my local hardware store carries the felker brand, well respected,
>only $40.
>>
>>shane mickey
>>shane mickey pottery and kiln design services

I suppose if I were building kilns for a living, or was in a group where
we could get'er done in a couple weeks and had a bunch of grant money,
that would be the route to go but in this day and age there are still some
of us who are not blessed with such a budget and have to resort to
primitive hand tools.

http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/hbgma06ac/spanningexitflue6.html

Then the idea becomes to design in such a way that cutting is at a
minimum. Easy if you score high in spatial relationships. Cutting brick by
hand is just one of them skills ya gotta have if you are kiln bilding.
Some of us only need to build a couple kilns in our lifetime to do our
work and personally I don't care how long it takes me. Adding up those $'s
I see another half pallet of brick, and for some that $30 is a couple days
beer money. Total for three hand tools is around $50. and I can build at
my leasure. It works for me. Thanks and stay in there ah!

G in da U.P.

Andy Misner on fri 16 feb 07


a real loud shout back at you. Sure we will always give you a good deal. If
its been that long, you should stop by. We have made some major improvements
to the building and office. We still have the full line of refractory products.

Andy

www.indfirebrick.com


>
> First a shout out to you folke in Grand Rapids, right, Industrial
>Firebrick. I got some remnents of Fiberfrax blanket from ya'll back in the
>late '80's for the wood burner...
>
> http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/hobagama_1986-90/fb.html
>
> Wanna save me some more and I'll pick it up on my next trip down below?
>Small world ah!
>
>