Mildred Herot on fri 9 feb 07
Hi Barbara: If you use a small hand torch and do not let it stay on one
spot too long, you can burn off the firing residue and your pot will be a
nice bright white. MIldred Herot - Hollow Tree Pottery
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murphy Brown"
To:
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: wax for white crackle raku pots
> Hello!
> After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the
> excess....do
> you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And how
> about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white
> crackle
> nice and white and shiny??
> Thank you,
> Barbara
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Murphy Brown on fri 9 feb 07
Okay, folks - I've got the cleaning down. (: So thanks for the safe advice.
I'm always hesitant trying "new" things I think of thinking I'll ruin it
all!
Now for the crazy crazing -- how do you get the best crackle effects? I am
aiming for the entire piece to crackle completely - any advice again please?
Thanks,
Barb
On 2/9/07, Murphy Brown wrote:
>
> Thank you so much Craig for the detailed help. That is quite perfect.
> Please please please if anyone else who would like to give me some white
> crackle raku helpful hints for pots to come out well I'd be very thankful -
> I would like to make different colored crackle glazes as well - like pink,
> blue, green - can anyone suggest how to make this type of glaze? The simple
> raku glaze I use is GerstBorate and NephSey - 80/20.
> Thank you,
> -Barbara
> http://home.comcast.net/~bfa1231/wsb/index.html
> http://picasaweb.google.com/barbaraarner
>
>
>
>
> On 2/9/07, Craig Clark wrote:
> >
> > Barbara, when cleaning the residue off a pot keep in mind that a
> > raku fired piece is not particularly durable. Use as little elbow grease
> >
> > as possible, especially if you are scrubbing with an abrasive type of
> > pad. What works for me is two fold. First, I try and make sure that I
> > only flame the pots for as much time as necessary to get a nice carbon
> > deposition in the clay. The amount of residue that will need to be
> > removed is directly proportional to the amount of time you are flaming
> > the piece. If you do it just right there will be little residue and none
> > of the heavier tar type of residue that is tough to remove. You will
> > also notice that your gloss is most prominent when the flaming has been
> > minimized in the case of a white crackle glaze. Additionally, if you
> > have a white crackle and it looks a little dull, try firing it a bit
> > higher and you may get a better gloss.
> > The second thing that works well for me is a method that was
> > actually "discovered" by a student of mine who has cronic fatigue and is
> > always looking for ways to minimize brute force. What she figured out,
> > and I have been utilizing ever since, is to first wet the pot. Then take
> > one of your sponges that has the abrasive side and sprinkle some
> > abrasive cleanser such as comet onto it, or you can just use an SOS pad
> > with comet and do the same thing. Then gently rub the cleanser in small
> > swirling motions all over the surface of the pot. Take care to try and
> > not get any of the soapy solution that forms onto the smoked black
> > areas, if you don't it is difficult to clean.
> > After you have applied the cleanser just let the pot sit for several
> > minutes as you do the same procedure to the other pots that you wish to
> > clean. As you are working on the next pot you are giveing the soap time
> > to work chemically on the previous pot. This facilitates a much easier
> > removal of the residue. You do not need to scrub anywhere near as hard
> > or as long. Less wear and tear on you and the pot that way. When the pot
> >
> > has set for a few minutes and the soap has a bit of the dried look, just
> > pick the piece up carefully and slowly wash it off under running fresh
> > water while gently scrubbing with your handy dandy two sided sponge. If
> > you don't want to hold the piece under running water do it in a large
> > wash tub with plenty of fresh water. If there is any residue left after
> > this my default is my dear old friend "Never Dull." It is indeed
> > caustic, you don't want to inhale deeply while you are using it, but it
> > will remove even the most stubborn deposits without a whole lot of
> > scrubbing. After cleaning with the Never Dull just use some dishwashing
> > liquid to completely wash the pot squeaky clean.
> > Hope this helps
> > Craig Dunn Clark
> > 619 East 11 1/2 St
> > Houston, Texas 77008
> > (713)861-2083
> > mudman@hal-pc.org
> >
> > Murphy Brown wrote:
> > > Hello!
> > > After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the
> > > excess....do
> > > you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And
> > how
> > > about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white
> > > crackle
> > > nice and white and shiny??
> > > Thank you,
> > > Barbara
> > >
> > >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > >
> > > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > > melpots@pclink.com.
> > >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>
Murphy Brown on fri 9 feb 07
Hello!
After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the excess....do
you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And how
about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white crackle
nice and white and shiny??
Thank you,
Barbara
Craig Clark on fri 9 feb 07
Barbara, when cleaning the residue off a pot keep in mind that a
raku fired piece is not particularly durable. Use as little elbow grease
as possible, especially if you are scrubbing with an abrasive type of
pad. What works for me is two fold. First, I try and make sure that I
only flame the pots for as much time as necessary to get a nice carbon
deposition in the clay. The amount of residue that will need to be
removed is directly proportional to the amount of time you are flaming
the piece. If you do it just right there will be little residue and none
of the heavier tar type of residue that is tough to remove. You will
also notice that your gloss is most prominent when the flaming has been
minimized in the case of a white crackle glaze. Additionally, if you
have a white crackle and it looks a little dull, try firing it a bit
higher and you may get a better gloss.
The second thing that works well for me is a method that was
actually "discovered" by a student of mine who has cronic fatigue and is
always looking for ways to minimize brute force. What she figured out,
and I have been utilizing ever since, is to first wet the pot. Then take
one of your sponges that has the abrasive side and sprinkle some
abrasive cleanser such as comet onto it, or you can just use an SOS pad
with comet and do the same thing. Then gently rub the cleanser in small
swirling motions all over the surface of the pot. Take care to try and
not get any of the soapy solution that forms onto the smoked black
areas, if you don't it is difficult to clean.
After you have applied the cleanser just let the pot sit for several
minutes as you do the same procedure to the other pots that you wish to
clean. As you are working on the next pot you are giveing the soap time
to work chemically on the previous pot. This facilitates a much easier
removal of the residue. You do not need to scrub anywhere near as hard
or as long. Less wear and tear on you and the pot that way. When the pot
has set for a few minutes and the soap has a bit of the dried look, just
pick the piece up carefully and slowly wash it off under running fresh
water while gently scrubbing with your handy dandy two sided sponge. If
you don't want to hold the piece under running water do it in a large
wash tub with plenty of fresh water. If there is any residue left after
this my default is my dear old friend "Never Dull." It is indeed
caustic, you don't want to inhale deeply while you are using it, but it
will remove even the most stubborn deposits without a whole lot of
scrubbing. After cleaning with the Never Dull just use some dishwashing
liquid to completely wash the pot squeaky clean.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Murphy Brown wrote:
> Hello!
> After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the
> excess....do
> you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And how
> about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white
> crackle
> nice and white and shiny??
> Thank you,
> Barbara
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Murphy Brown on fri 9 feb 07
Thank you so much Craig for the detailed help. That is quite perfect. Please
please please if anyone else who would like to give me some white crackle
raku helpful hints for pots to come out well I'd be very thankful - I would
like to make different colored crackle glazes as well - like pink, blue,
green - can anyone suggest how to make this type of glaze? The simple raku
glaze I use is GerstBorate and NephSey - 80/20.
Thank you,
-Barbara
http://home.comcast.net/~bfa1231/wsb/index.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/barbaraarner
On 2/9/07, Craig Clark wrote:
>
> Barbara, when cleaning the residue off a pot keep in mind that a
> raku fired piece is not particularly durable. Use as little elbow grease
> as possible, especially if you are scrubbing with an abrasive type of
> pad. What works for me is two fold. First, I try and make sure that I
> only flame the pots for as much time as necessary to get a nice carbon
> deposition in the clay. The amount of residue that will need to be
> removed is directly proportional to the amount of time you are flaming
> the piece. If you do it just right there will be little residue and none
> of the heavier tar type of residue that is tough to remove. You will
> also notice that your gloss is most prominent when the flaming has been
> minimized in the case of a white crackle glaze. Additionally, if you
> have a white crackle and it looks a little dull, try firing it a bit
> higher and you may get a better gloss.
> The second thing that works well for me is a method that was
> actually "discovered" by a student of mine who has cronic fatigue and is
> always looking for ways to minimize brute force. What she figured out,
> and I have been utilizing ever since, is to first wet the pot. Then take
> one of your sponges that has the abrasive side and sprinkle some
> abrasive cleanser such as comet onto it, or you can just use an SOS pad
> with comet and do the same thing. Then gently rub the cleanser in small
> swirling motions all over the surface of the pot. Take care to try and
> not get any of the soapy solution that forms onto the smoked black
> areas, if you don't it is difficult to clean.
> After you have applied the cleanser just let the pot sit for several
> minutes as you do the same procedure to the other pots that you wish to
> clean. As you are working on the next pot you are giveing the soap time
> to work chemically on the previous pot. This facilitates a much easier
> removal of the residue. You do not need to scrub anywhere near as hard
> or as long. Less wear and tear on you and the pot that way. When the pot
> has set for a few minutes and the soap has a bit of the dried look, just
> pick the piece up carefully and slowly wash it off under running fresh
> water while gently scrubbing with your handy dandy two sided sponge. If
> you don't want to hold the piece under running water do it in a large
> wash tub with plenty of fresh water. If there is any residue left after
> this my default is my dear old friend "Never Dull." It is indeed
> caustic, you don't want to inhale deeply while you are using it, but it
> will remove even the most stubborn deposits without a whole lot of
> scrubbing. After cleaning with the Never Dull just use some dishwashing
> liquid to completely wash the pot squeaky clean.
> Hope this helps
> Craig Dunn Clark
> 619 East 11 1/2 St
> Houston, Texas 77008
> (713)861-2083
> mudman@hal-pc.org
>
> Murphy Brown wrote:
> > Hello!
> > After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the
> > excess....do
> > you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And how
> > about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white
> > crackle
> > nice and white and shiny??
> > Thank you,
> > Barbara
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> >
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Lee Love on sat 10 feb 07
Hi Murphy,
My crackle white is not so fragile as Craig's. Look in archives
for TAK Fat White. It is as close in lowfire I have ever come to a
shino.
http://public.fotki.com/togeika/science/tak1.html
http://public.fotki.com/togeika/science/tak2.html
Looks like your's might be similar. Can you share a photo?
I buff pots with a drill and a sheepskin buffer head, like
what you polish a car with. You can use a little candle wax, not so
much to wax the surface, as to help the buffer spin.
I use a 3M green kitchen sponge to remove residue from post
firing reduction. Dry before you buff.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Roy Odom on sat 10 feb 07
If you have whiting in your glaze chemicals you could use that instead of
Comet. Whiting is the active ingredient in many cleaners of that nature and
is used by glass artists to shine stained glass, and by raku artists to
scrub the gunk off.
Happy scrubbing!
Roy B. Odom
Stonecreek Studio Pottery
http://www.stonecreekstudiopottery.biz
_________________________________________________________________
Search for grocery stores. Find gratitude. Turn a simple search into
something more.
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Allyson May on sat 10 feb 07
Hey Barbara,
Almost all my work is raku of some form. I went through several white =
crackle recipes to find a couple that really worked for me. I have =
never heard of using wax on a glazed piece. Wax is used on the black =
and white crackle "naked" or slip resist raku to pump up the shine and =
protect the surface since there is no glaze. A glossy white crackle =
should have no need for wax. As far as getting a good crackle this is =
what I found through my experimentation. 1. Fire to recommended temp =
but check the glaze itself through the peep or flue to make sure it is =
really shiny and completely melted. 2. In the reduction can place a =
fire brick on top of your reduction materials and lay a single sheet of =
newspaper over the brick where it comes into contact with the other =
materials. Stand your piece on top of the brick when it is time to =
reduce. This keeps your piece out of the combustibles (makes cleaning =
much easier) yet still allows everything to ignite and burn. 3. I have =
a tophat kiln and tend to fire all my white crackle pieces at once so =
this is the way I do this next step. When proper melt is achieved I =
open my kiln and begin fanning the pieces with a large piece of =
cardboard as I walk around the kiln. You can here the glaze start to =
ping and crackle as you fan. I do this for about 30 seconds or so and =
then place pieces in their cans on top of the bricks and cover. If you =
don't have the type of kiln where you can do this or only some of the =
pieces are crackle the you can remove them one at a time and have a =
helper fan them or place them on a heated brick on the ground and fan =
them. I have also used an air compressor as well as a bicycle pump to =
blow air onto pieces but finally settled on the cardboard. Give it a =
try and see what you think.
Cleaning: You have gotten some good advice. The Comet cleanser and =
scrubbie really work.
Craig Clark on sat 10 feb 07
Mildred, while this may indeed work it is more than a bit of overkill.
Additionally, there is the issue of the open flame of the torch as well
as the stress and strain on the pot caused by very localized heating.
Simple washing procedures coupled with learning how to fire without over
doing it will yield some very nice results in the realm of the white
crackle glaze. Don't flame the pot to long and let the soap work for
you. No heavy duty scrubbing required.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn CLark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Mildred Herot wrote:
> Hi Barbara: If you use a small hand torch and do not let it stay on one
> spot too long, you can burn off the firing residue and your pot will be a
> nice bright white. MIldred Herot - Hollow Tree Pottery
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Murphy Brown"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 11:04 AM
> Subject: wax for white crackle raku pots
>
>
>> Hello!
>> After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the
>> excess....do
>> you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And how
>> about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white
>> crackle
>> nice and white and shiny??
>> Thank you,
>> Barbara
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________________________
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Clark on sat 10 feb 07
Barbara, a basic rule of thumb is that if you want a lot of crackle
up the flint percentage in the glaze and make sure that you let the pot
cool a bit before putting it into the can for a good flaming. Adding as
little as 2 to 3% flint will really result in a more pronounced crackle
if the glaze you are currently using does not tend to crackle enough in
the open atmoshpere. But don't do this if you don't need to.
To being, you will need to get to where you know when your piece is
ready for the can. I've gotten to where I pretty much "know" when a pot
is ready for the can, but a good number of seconds to count is fifteen
or twenty seconds. I tend to wave my pots around in the air a bit to get
varieties of cracking, but I'm pretty much dressed head to toe in a
highly flame resistent outfit complete with a full length face shield
typically used in foundaries, one of those fire resistant silvery
jackets, heavy pants, boots, bandana and elbow length Kevlar gloves.
I'm also aware of anyone in the vicinity of the work zone while I'm
doing this. This is of critical importance. I can honestly say that in
almost 15 years of doing raku, both in school and as a professional, I
have not been involved in anyone (besides myself) getting burned. I
don't know what your studio situation is like but if you are working in
an institutional setting of any type I cannot over stress the importance
of safety.
Back to affecting the crackle: You can also use a spray bottle with
water in it to greatly increase the the degree of crackle. This can
either be done with the tongs and pot in one hand and the spray bottle
in the other, which is tricky at best.......or you can have an assistant
spritz the pot while you hold it in your tongs (which is what I would
recommend at this stage if possible.) Just make sure that your assistant
wearing gloves, long pants, sleeves, hair tied back, etc., and is aware
of the fact that if the glaze of the pot gets on the skin you will be
peeling several layers of skin away with the solidified glaze. Sorry
about the continued emphais on safety here but the process is deceptive
and a hot glass looks just like a cold glass. A burn from the glaze is
far more hazardous than the comparatively minor complications from a
burn resulting from the flame in the can.
As you are spritzing the pot listen to what is going on. You will be
able to hear the glaze crackling. You can also hear this with an
unspritzed pot cooling, but it will take longer and be to a lesser
degree. One thing to keep in mind is that you don't want the pot to cool
too much. If it does, the paper, or whatever you are using for your
reduction material, will not combust immediately and you will end up
with a lot of smoke. This is primarily a concern with much smaller and
lighter pieces since there is less mass resulting in a much quicker cool
down.
Another method is to take the pot from the kiln and place it on a
kiln shelf on a nice stable surface. Just put the shelf up on a couple
of kiln post that are layed flat. This will keep the heat from the shelf
from being transfered to whatever type of stand you are using. With the
pot sitting there you can then spritz away. Also, varying the proximity
of the nozzle of your spritzer to the surface of the pot will result in
different types of concentrations of your crackle pattern.
I mentioned earlier that if you don't get your pot into the can
quickly enough then the paper wouldn't combust immediately resulting in
copious amounts of smoke. If you have trouble with your timing just take
a wadded up piece of paper that you light with either a match, your
handy-dandy click start torch or the atmoshpere of your kiln. I just
touch a rolled up piece of newspaper to a shelf in the kiln that is
still red hot and it will burst into flame. Throw the paper into the can
right before the cooling pot goes in. If you hold the pot up in the
flame for a bit you can watch the burn in occur and the crackle pattern
develop. Then just let it go and cover the can.
One thing that I have not yet tried, but I know some folks use, is
to have twelve inch or so long hollow tube. They literally blow through
it and use it in the same way that one would use a spritz bottle. They
vary the intensity of their breath through the tube as well as the
proximity of the tubes end to the surface of the pot. You may want to
check this out as well.
I like to say that the Raku process is kinda like a dance. There are
a lot of different rythms and styles.Once you learn the steps, some of
which I have just described, you will learn glide across the floor if
you practice enough. Just be aware of what you are doing, take notes,
and don't use your best pieces to figure out what you are doing. Try and
develop something that works best for what you want to do.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
of doing raku on andMurphy Brown wrote:
> Okay, folks - I've got the cleaning down. (: So thanks for the safe
> advice.
> I'm always hesitant trying "new" things I think of thinking I'll ruin it
> all!
> Now for the crazy crazing -- how do you get the best crackle effects?
> I am
> aiming for the entire piece to crackle completely - any advice again
> please?
> Thanks,
> Barb
>
>
> On 2/9/07, Murphy Brown wrote:
>>
>> Thank you so much Craig for the detailed help. That is quite perfect.
>> Please please please if anyone else who would like to give me some white
>> crackle raku helpful hints for pots to come out well I'd be very
>> thankful -
>> I would like to make different colored crackle glazes as well - like
>> pink,
>> blue, green - can anyone suggest how to make this type of glaze? The
>> simple
>> raku glaze I use is GerstBorate and NephSey - 80/20.
>> Thank you,
>> -Barbara
>> http://home.comcast.net/~bfa1231/wsb/index.html
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/barbaraarner
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2/9/07, Craig Clark wrote:
>> >
>> > Barbara, when cleaning the residue off a pot keep in mind that a
>> > raku fired piece is not particularly durable. Use as little elbow
>> grease
>> >
>> > as possible, especially if you are scrubbing with an abrasive type of
>> > pad. What works for me is two fold. First, I try and make sure that I
>> > only flame the pots for as much time as necessary to get a nice carbon
>> > deposition in the clay. The amount of residue that will need to be
>> > removed is directly proportional to the amount of time you are flaming
>> > the piece. If you do it just right there will be little residue and
>> none
>> > of the heavier tar type of residue that is tough to remove. You will
>> > also notice that your gloss is most prominent when the flaming has
>> been
>> > minimized in the case of a white crackle glaze. Additionally, if you
>> > have a white crackle and it looks a little dull, try firing it a bit
>> > higher and you may get a better gloss.
>> > The second thing that works well for me is a method that was
>> > actually "discovered" by a student of mine who has cronic fatigue
>> and is
>> > always looking for ways to minimize brute force. What she figured out,
>> > and I have been utilizing ever since, is to first wet the pot. Then
>> take
>> > one of your sponges that has the abrasive side and sprinkle some
>> > abrasive cleanser such as comet onto it, or you can just use an SOS
>> pad
>> > with comet and do the same thing. Then gently rub the cleanser in
>> small
>> > swirling motions all over the surface of the pot. Take care to try and
>> > not get any of the soapy solution that forms onto the smoked black
>> > areas, if you don't it is difficult to clean.
>> > After you have applied the cleanser just let the pot sit for
>> several
>> > minutes as you do the same procedure to the other pots that you
>> wish to
>> > clean. As you are working on the next pot you are giveing the soap
>> time
>> > to work chemically on the previous pot. This facilitates a much easier
>> > removal of the residue. You do not need to scrub anywhere near as hard
>> > or as long. Less wear and tear on you and the pot that way. When
>> the pot
>> >
>> > has set for a few minutes and the soap has a bit of the dried look,
>> just
>> > pick the piece up carefully and slowly wash it off under running fresh
>> > water while gently scrubbing with your handy dandy two sided
>> sponge. If
>> > you don't want to hold the piece under running water do it in a large
>> > wash tub with plenty of fresh water. If there is any residue left
>> after
>> > this my default is my dear old friend "Never Dull." It is indeed
>> > caustic, you don't want to inhale deeply while you are using it,
>> but it
>> > will remove even the most stubborn deposits without a whole lot of
>> > scrubbing. After cleaning with the Never Dull just use some
>> dishwashing
>> > liquid to completely wash the pot squeaky clean.
>> > Hope this helps
>> > Craig Dunn Clark
>> > 619 East 11 1/2 St
>> > Houston, Texas 77008
>> > (713)861-2083
>> > mudman@hal-pc.org
>> >
>> > Murphy Brown wrote:
>> > > Hello!
>> > > After raku firing pots w white crackle glaze, scrubbing off the
>> > > excess....do
>> > > you use wax to keep the "shine"? And of course if so what kind? And
>> > how
>> > > about Comet while scrubbing? Any helpful hints for keeping the white
>> > > crackle
>> > > nice and white and shiny??
>> > > Thank you,
>> > > Barbara
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
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>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
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Craig Clark on sun 11 feb 07
Lee, I do not wax my pots because I was told that over time the wax
would have a tendency to yellow. I pretty much took this at face value
having had the experience of removing lots of yellowing wax from many
floors and decks during my tenure in Uncle Sams Canoe Club many moons
ago. I did not test this in any empirically based manner when it comes
to pots though. Have you had any difficulties with yellowing of wax on a
pot over time?
What I do use, when I seal a pot, which is not often, is grout sealer.
It was recommended to me by a potter who still makes and sells boat
loads of the copper matt glazed raku. He has been using it for the
better part of the past fifteen years and it has helped greatly, or at
least he says, to retard the degradation of the copper matt surfaces. I
tell him that regardless, he needs to tell his customers that Raku just
ain't archival in nature which he does.
Are you waxing all of your pots? I have heard of, and do indeed use, wax
to seal the surface of a refracotory slip (aka., naked raku) pot, but
hadn't seen folks use wax on glazed pieces. Do you seal and buff glossy
crackle glazes as well?
Thanx
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Lee Love wrote:
> Hi Murphy,
>
> My crackle white is not so fragile as Craig's. Look in archives
> for TAK Fat White. It is as close in lowfire I have ever come to a
> shino.
>
> http://public.fotki.com/togeika/science/tak1.html
> http://public.fotki.com/togeika/science/tak2.html
>
> Looks like your's might be similar. Can you share a photo?
>
> I buff pots with a drill and a sheepskin buffer head, like
> what you polish a car with. You can use a little candle wax, not so
> much to wax the surface, as to help the buffer spin.
>
> I use a 3M green kitchen sponge to remove residue from post
> firing reduction. Dry before you buff.
>
>
> --
> Lee in Mashiko, Japan
> Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
> http://potters.blogspot.com/
>
> "To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
> Henry David Thoreau
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ron Roy on mon 12 feb 07
Hi Craig,
As you know - adding silica to a glaze helps to lower expansion and prevent
crazing.
I assume you know of what you speak here but I have to ask - do you
understand why adding silica to a raku glaze increases crazing?
I did once find some free silica in a glaze - it showed up on a dilatometer
chart - I could see the quartz inversion. It was a real surprise.
I assumed there was some unmelted silica in that glaze. That would be an
explanation for what is happening if silica is added to a raku glaze.
What do you think?
Does it work with all glazes or just the one you use? Is the glaze mostly
frit and clay?
RR
> Barbara, a basic rule of thumb is that if you want a lot of crackle
>up the flint percentage in the glaze and make sure that you let the pot
>cool a bit before putting it into the can for a good flaming. Adding as
>little as 2 to 3% flint will really result in a more pronounced crackle
>if the glaze you are currently using does not tend to crackle enough in
>the open atmoshpere. But don't do this if you don't need to.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Lee Love on mon 12 feb 07
On 2/12/07, Craig Clark wrote:
> Lee, I do not wax my pots because I was told that over time the wax
> would have a tendency to yellow. I pretty much took this at face value
> having had the experience of removing lots of yellowing wax from many
> floors and decks during my tenure in Uncle Sams Canoe Club many moons
> ago. I did not test this in any empirically based manner when it comes
> to pots though. Have you had any difficulties with yellowing of wax on a
> pot over time?
As I said, I don't wax pots. If you have a proper glaze, no wax is
necessary. I do buff them. Buffing simply takes any surface oxide
off. All of Shimaoka's Yohen work is buffed. If you look in the
archives, you will find the methods and steps.
> Are you waxing all of your pots? I have heard of, and do indeed use, wax
> to seal the surface of a refracotory slip (aka., naked raku) pot, but
> hadn't seen folks use wax on glazed pieces. Do you seal and buff glossy
> crackle glazes as well?
No. I don't seal them either. If you use work functionally,
you really can't put these things on them. Except maybe on the
outside.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
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