Lisa E on fri 16 feb 07
Has anyone ever added glass to their work?
What temp. does it melt at?
Is it quite active so should it be kept on the inside?
What kind of results did you get?
I haven't tried it yet but was thinking of adding a piece or two to my next
glaze firing.
Regards,
--
Lisa E
Sunny Daze Design Pottery Studio
SunnyDazeDesign@gmail.com
Squamish, BC Canada
www.lisaelbertsen.com http://picasaweb.google.com/SunnyDazeDesign
Stephanie Wright on sun 18 feb 07
Hi Lisa,
One of the teachers at my art school uses glass in her firings. Usually in
the bottom of a bowl, or in a dish with a lip that catches any spreading
to prevent overflow. One of her 10 year old students made slab coasters
like this. The effect was very nice. Firing was done in an electric kiln,
and she uses cone 5-6.
Hope this helps!
Stephanie
Larry Kruzan on sun 18 feb 07
My wife has bought a couple shallow saucers/bowls that had colored glass
beads melted in the bottom - looks like a pond. Potter said she fired with
the glaze firing, LOTS of crackle in the 1/4 thick glass. I think it would
be a real mess if a bowl cracked!
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lisa E
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 11:33 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: [CLAYART] Glass in Pottery?
Has anyone ever added glass to their work?
What temp. does it melt at?
Is it quite active so should it be kept on the inside?
What kind of results did you get?
I haven't tried it yet but was thinking of adding a piece or two to my next
glaze firing.
Regards,
--
Lisa E
Sunny Daze Design Pottery Studio
SunnyDazeDesign@gmail.com
Squamish, BC Canada
www.lisaelbertsen.com http://picasaweb.google.com/SunnyDazeDesign
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arkey03755 on sun 18 feb 07
very often i have melted glass in the bottom of dishes and in the
indentation of knobs. i used to use crushed discarded botles but
found i had a lot of cracks due to difences in the glass coeff of
expansion. now i buy "frits" from Bullseye glass. all this means is
finely ground glass and all the bu7llseye glass haqs the same coe so
they can all be mixed. i hae gotten some verry interresting effects
using diffents colors. but one must be careful not to use too much as
tthe expansion will cause the pot to crack. so start with a little
and then increase to get the best result.
eleanor arkowitz
timothy knick on sun 18 feb 07
Original question was wanting pooled glass "pond effect" in the bottom of a
bowl.
Here is a recipe I found for soda-lime glass.(bottle glass, drink glass
glass)
70 silica
13 lime
12 sodium carbonate
The melting point was not specific. somewhere between 600 and 800 degrees
celsius (1100-1500F). It might be worth a try to glaze fire a piece, pour
some of this mix in and fire it again to the lower temp. I'm not sure if the
piece will dunt. Silica crystalizes at a much higher temp than this, and
too much silica crystallization is what causes dunting to the best of my
knowledge. You could lower the melting point, if dunting was a problem, by
increasing the soda and decreasing the whiting or silica. This will likely
decrease the food safety, though. The information here is referenced below.
Another related question--- how high could you re-fire a cone 10'd porcelain
without worry of dunting?
Tim
reference http://www.glasslinks.com/newsinfo/histppg.htm
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Ron Roy on mon 19 feb 07
Hi Tim,
Not sure what you mean by silica crystallization causing dunting - that is
part of the answer but it also depends on the overall expansion of a glaze
- in which there can be no crystallized silica.
Again - refiring porcelain will not cause dunting - unless you fire it up
too fast. The main problem in refiring porcelain is slumping - it depends
on how vitrified the porcelain is and what shapes are involved.
My general rule is - if you refire you are going at least a cone higher.
Lots depends on how well melted the glaze and clay are - the more melting
in the first firing - the more danger in the 2nd firing.
My Tenmoku glaze can take one refiring - a second will make it run off the pots.
RR
>Original question was wanting pooled glass "pond effect" in the bottom of a
>bowl.
>
>Here is a recipe I found for soda-lime glass.(bottle glass, drink glass
>glass)
>
>70 silica
>13 lime
>12 sodium carbonate
>
>The melting point was not specific. somewhere between 600 and 800 degrees
>celsius (1100-1500F). It might be worth a try to glaze fire a piece, pour
>some of this mix in and fire it again to the lower temp. I'm not sure if the
>piece will dunt. Silica crystalizes at a much higher temp than this, and
>too much silica crystallization is what causes dunting to the best of my
>knowledge. You could lower the melting point, if dunting was a problem, by
>increasing the soda and decreasing the whiting or silica. This will likely
>decrease the food safety, though. The information here is referenced below.
>Another related question--- how high could you re-fire a cone 10'd porcelain
>without worry of dunting?
>Tim
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Sean Burns on mon 19 feb 07
>Has anyone ever added glass to their work?
>What temp. does it melt at?
>Is it quite active so should it be kept on the inside?
>What kind of results did you get?
Lisa,
My students at Palmer High School have had nice results using shards of
glass melted on the inside of container forms- There is crazing and some
interesting crystalizing that sometimes occur. We fire at cone 5-6. Good
for decorative ware only in my estimation.
Initially we simply tried some experiments on small containers and tile
shapes a couple years ago to make sure things would work out. The kids keep
moving things along and now do some cool things with platters and bowls-
the best results have carving or added decoration that contain the flowing
glass during the firing process.
Most recently I had a student produce a relief style celtic cross form
and he used glass along with glaze in the recceses of the reilef carving-
a stunner piece when it came out. That one went home already but I can
send some pix when I get back to school if you contact me off list.
Have Fun!
Sean Burns
Williamsbug, Ma.
>
marci Boskie's Mama =^..^= on mon 19 feb 07
>Lisa E said:
>Has anyone ever added glass to their work?
>What temp. does it melt at?
>Is it quite active so should it be kept on the inside?
>What kind of results did you get?
>
>I haven't tried it yet but was thinking of adding a piece or two to my next
>glaze firing.
I havent added glass to a glaze but fuse glass to my work as
an overglaze process. You can see some examples on my website at
Http://www.marciblattenberger.com , ( BLING WARNING: If you have
an aversion to lots of chatter on top of a glaze, view at your
own risk :O) ) click on Porcelain Paintings.. The pieces titled
"Seara" and "Autumn" and some of the small lustered boxes further
down have dichroic glass fused onto the surface ... I mostly use
dichroic but any kind of glass , including stained glass and glass beads
can be used... ( clicking on the picture will bring up an
enlarged version so you can really see the glass )
Note that all of the paintings on the site right now
are all overglaze paints on commercially available porcelain ware...
which is a pretty hard glaze... Im making my own forms now and the
clear glaze Im using is a softer glaze ( ^6) which makes a difference
in stick-a-tude :O) ... and Im able to use larger pieces of glass
without needing the paste as a buffer. ( Hope to have some of those
pieces up soon ) The softer the glaze, the better the compatibility and
the less likely that the glass will pop off...
On the harder glazes , I can usually fuse small pieces 4mm or
smaller directly onto the glaze . For bigger pieces, I use something
called base for gold or structure paste ( I have some recipes if youre
interested but havent tested them .. I get my structure from a friend who
makes it ... anyway , it is basically equal parts of Kaolin, Zinc oxide
and Frit , the frit being one that will work in the Cone 018 ( 1325 F
/ 720 C) to Cone 015 ( 1480 F / 800 C) range...
The paste is mixed with water ( or milk which breaks the paste up
into interesting nuggety textures .powdered milk can also be added
to the dry mix) ... and used as a glue on the back of the glass
...and the paste itself can be used as a design element . It is fired
to Cone 015 ( 1480 F / 800 C) .
The ^015 will fuse into a solid texture that can be later painted
over with chinapaints, lusters or gold... ( it can also be tinted before
firing with chinapaint) ... and it will hold the glass in place even
if the glass pieces fracture ... The glass edges will round off at the
^015 firing also .
The biggest trick to this is slow cooling...
Marci Blattenberger Boskie's Mama =^..^=
http://www.marciblattenberger.com
marci@ppio.com
Porcelain Painters International Online http://www.ppio.com
--
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Beth Spindler on mon 19 feb 07
A potter I know here in the foothills of VA uses green(brokenJ) wine bottles in the bottom of some of his work from time to time. He glazes and then sprinkles fragments in the bottom of the pot and then fires...after it's fired, there's this melted glass lump in the bottom...really nothing exciting at all...perhaps there is more to it to make it more artistic in nature?
Beth in VA
-----Original Message-----
From: marci@PPIO.COM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: Glass in Pottery?
>Lisa E said:
>Has anyone ever added glass to their work?
>What temp. does it melt at?
>Is it quite active so should it be kept on the inside?
>What kind of results did you get?
>
>I haven't tried it yet but was thinking of adding a piece or two to my next
>glaze firing.
I havent added glass to a glaze but fuse glass to my work as
an overglaze process. You can see some examples on my website at
Http://www.marciblattenberger.com , ( BLING WARNING: If you have
an aversion to lots of chatter on top of a glaze, view at your
own risk :O) ) click on Porcelain Paintings.. The pieces titled
"Seara" and "Autumn" and some of the small lustered boxes further
down have dichroic glass fused onto the surface ... I mostly use
dichroic but any kind of glass , including stained glass and glass beads
can be used... ( clicking on the picture will bring up an
enlarged version so you can really see the glass )
Note that all of the paintings on the site right now
are all overglaze paints on commercially available porcelain ware...
which is a pretty hard glaze... Im making my own forms now and the
clear glaze Im using is a softer glaze ( ^6) which makes a difference
in stick-a-tude :O) ... and Im able to use larger pieces of glass
without needing the paste as a buffer. ( Hope to have some of those
pieces up soon ) The softer the glaze, the better the compatibility and
the less likely that the glass will pop off...
On the harder glazes , I can usually fuse small pieces 4mm or
smaller directly onto the glaze . For bigger pieces, I use something
called base for gold or structure paste ( I have some recipes if youre
interested but havent tested them .. I get my structure from a friend who
makes it ... anyway , it is basically equal parts of Kaolin, Zinc oxide
and Frit , the frit being one that will work in the Cone 018 ( 1325 F
/ 720 C) to Cone 015 ( 1480 F / 800 C) range...
The paste is mixed with water ( or milk which breaks the paste up
into interesting nuggety textures .powdered milk can also be added
to the dry mix) ... and used as a glue on the back of the glass
...and the paste itself can be used as a design element . It is fired
to Cone 015 ( 1480 F / 800 C) .
The ^015 will fuse into a solid texture that can be later painted
over with chinapaints, lusters or gold... ( it can also be tinted before
firing with chinapaint) ... and it will hold the glass in place even
if the glass pieces fracture ... The glass edges will round off at the
^015 firing also .
The biggest trick to this is slow cooling...
Marci Blattenberger Boskie's Mama =^..^=
http://www.marciblattenberger.com
marci@ppio.com
Porcelain Painters International Online http://www.ppio.com
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.412 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007
______________________________________________________________________________
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You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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________________________________________________________________________
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jim on mon 19 feb 07
Sometimes when I have a small plate or tiny bowl that I have thrown out of
leftover clay, I will put a cats-eye marble in it when I glaze fire. That
will usually make a little design in the glass. Again nothing special and
of course not for food...
Jim
---------- Original Message -----------
> -----Original Message-----
> From: marci@PPIO.COM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Sent: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 3:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Glass in Pottery?
>
> >Lisa E said:
> >Has anyone ever added glass to their work?
> >What temp. does it melt at?
> >Is it quite active so should it be kept on the inside?
> >What kind of results did you get?
> >
>____________________________________________________________________________
__
>
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