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partly off topic: white ash help

updated mon 26 feb 07

 

Taylor Hendrix on tue 20 feb 07


Howdy youse guys,

This is a bit on topic and a bit off topic.

I just had a large White Ash chopped down in my back yard (getting old
and in the way of the future sun room). It was a monster and I would
hate to just burn the stuff in my pit. I'm planning on getting some
wood for throwing sticks etc. and want to be sure I lay it up for
drying correctly. What exactly should I do to minimize checking?

I'm also wanting to get some thick slab rounds for my version of a
korean kick wheel. How should I treat those and can I keep them from
cracking as well?

This tree is huge. I can't touch my hands when I hug it. I still have
an 8 foot stump that I need to get pulled over. I sure hope someone
can mill it for me!

Thanks all you know-it-alls,
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/

Megamelon on sun 25 feb 07


Checking is caused by uneven drying in thicker pieces. Wood shrinks =
when it dries, so if the outside dries faster than the inside, it will =
shrink and crack from the outside in.

There are a number of ways to prevent checking- you could reduce the =
wood to small dimension right away and it should not check much at all, =
as long as you don't expose it to heat/super dry air right away. I have =
knocked down a tree and had a bow (yes, for archery) roughed out that =
day, and let it dry normally without checking several times. If =
worried, you could rough out the piece that you want to make and throw a =
coat of oil on it to slow drying. You could also use one layer of =
house paint, thinned wood glue, or even masking tape. I wouldn't =
bother, personally. As long as the pieces are small (like a throwing =
stick), there should be little issue. You could knock out blanks, and =
stack them up with stickers (cross sticks to separate the wood and give =
some airflow to prevent rot) between layers.

Alternately- saw it to length and coat the ends of the log- let it sit =
for a couple of years or until you can reduce it all at once someplace =
dry and off the ground. I don't make much lumber, and don't have that =
sort of patience.

Warpage etc may occur in flatter pieces like ribs.

One thing to think about- white ash splits like a dream. I have split =
7' lengths with little effort. It's very strong, beautiful wood, but =
there's really no cross grain. The early growth rings are thick and =
well defined, which makes it take a really interesting stain, but means =
that you need to be very conscious about ring direction, and only use =
flat sawn pieces. This all means that it may not be as suitable for =
small items that will be used with water and pressure against any side =
of it- like a rib. Hickory is the exact opposite and would be perfect, =
IMO. Heck- if it's going to be burned anyway- give it a try. =20

Paul Haigh
-pH