Stephanie Wright on fri 2 mar 07
Hi Everybody!
Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner walls?
I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are pretty
good, and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes and height
that I want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a visual
of almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on vase and
bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well to each
other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the walls, even
after I trim alot off. Help, please!
Stephanie
Lois Ruben Aronow on fri 2 mar 07
The problem may not lie in the walls, it could be in the base. Have you
taken a few of your pots, cut them in half, and looked at the profile? You
will be able to get a better sense of where the weigh is coming from and how
evenly you are throwing.
Thickness/thinness is a tricky issue, and I am sure that many people will
disagree with me that thin is not always better. A pot should weigh what
you'd expect it to weigh. Too light is just as "off" as brick-like.
I was taught to hold the pot in my hands, cupping it from the bottom, to get
a sense of balance and weight.
If thinner walls is really what you're after, then it depends on your clay
and your forms and much as your skill. Earthenware is horrible when it is
eggshell thin, and I don't particularly care for paper thin stoneware
either.
I haven't really answered your question, but I also haven't seen of felt
your pots. Pick them up from the bottoms, not the rims, and see if you can
feel a difference.
****
Lois Ruben Aronow Ceramics
www.loisaronow.com
www.craftsofthedamned.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Stephanie
Wright
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 8:28 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Any tips on throwing thinner walls?
Hi Everybody!
Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner walls?
I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are pretty good,
and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes and height that I
want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a visual of
almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on vase and
bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well to each
other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the walls, even
after I trim alot off. Help, please!
Stephanie
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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Patrick Cross on fri 2 mar 07
It may sound like I'm kidding...but I'm not. Try using less clay to make
the same form. If it use to take five pounds...weigh out four and a
half...and force your self to meet the same parameters.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 3/2/07, Stephanie Wright wrote:
>
> Hi Everybody!
>
> Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner walls?
>
> I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are pretty
> good, and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes and height
> that I want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
>
> This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a visual
> of almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on vase and
> bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well to each
> other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the walls, even
> after I trim alot off. Help, please!
>
> Stephanie
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Lee Burningham on fri 2 mar 07
Howdy,
Practice making cylinders, cut them in half from top to bottom so you
can see the thickness all the way down. Force yourself to feel/see the
thickness through your fingers. Like everything else, the more practice,
the better the pots, the better the feel, the thinner the walls of the
pots.
Lee Burningham
Look for a flat, even bottom to the cylinder and an even side with a
slightly thicker top edge for setting the appropriate sized lip.=20
Chris Groat on fri 2 mar 07
I agree with Patrick. Take 2 lbs or so and make a form you're comfortable
with. Then try it with 1.5 lbs. Then maybe 1.25 etc. In college, my
professor always said to use your knuckle to pull clay up from the bottom.
I've seen him do it with much success, but I always seem to use too much
force. I like to use my finger tips to sort of dig in at the base and pull
the clay up. While you're practicing, make the form wide enough to get
your hand down inside the pot. If you get the bottom too thin it will
spiral and collapse as you pull up the top half of the pot. I like to
leave the bottom of the pot fairly thick as I make the top part thin, and
then I go back and pull up the clay from the bottom of the pot. I'm sure
other people have different strategies. At William Melstrom's crystalline
glaze forum Terry Fallon has created the "6lb challenge". You have to make
an 18" tall (wet) pot out of six pounds of clay. I found that it's not too
hard to do with a straight cylinder, but it's hard to make a pot that's
18" tall and still has a pleasing form.
ps- Make sure you're clay is pretty firm and wedged before you start,
otherwise the bottom of the pot will either stay thick or just collapse.
It can be very frustrating.
Good Luck!
Chris
Marcia Selsor on fri 2 mar 07
-
On Mar 2, 2007, at 7:27 PM, Stephanie Wright wrote:
> Hi Everybody!
>
> Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner
> walls?
>
> I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are pretty
> good, and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes and
> height
> that I want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
>
> This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a
> visual
> of almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on
> vase and
> bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well
> to each
> other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the
> walls, even
> after I trim alot off. Help, please!
>
> Stephanie
>
Stephanie,
A lot of things can help:
throw with less water.
when you open come across the inside bottom by curling your fingers
across the bottom to where the wall will start and lift up the roll
of clay in the walls.
Someone mentioned 3 or so years ago on clayart to put a couple of
drops of vinegar in your throwing water.
When throwing for height, curl the inside fingers around a roll and
lift with a knuckle on your outside index finger lift an outside roll.
Just a few suggestions.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Antoinette Badenhorst on fri 2 mar 07
I agree with Lois. Pots should be as thick as they look. Stephanie my =
bet is
that you create your shapes by forming them from the outside. That is =
one of
the most common mistakes potters make. By the time you have trimmed the
shape you want (from the outside) there are still too much clay left and =
you
have a too heavy pot. Try to shape your pots on the inside to look as =
you
want their final shape outside. When you trim away the access clay, you =
can
just follow the inside contours and end up with even walls.=20
Throwing taller pieces always leave more clay at the bottom unless you =
are a
strong and very good thrower. To help fix that problem you can create a =
dent
right at the bottom of the clay you want to pull up. Instead of pressing =
the
clay thinner, try to push the wall of clay that appears above the dent
upward. It might take a few tries and your clay should not be too soft.=20
I hope this advice is clear and helpful.
Best wishes.
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS, 38866
662 869 1651
www.clayandcanvas.com
www.southernartistry.org
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lois Ruben
Aronow
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 8:01 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Any tips on throwing thinner walls?
The problem may not lie in the walls, it could be in the base. Have you
taken a few of your pots, cut them in half, and looked at the profile? =
You
will be able to get a better sense of where the weigh is coming from and =
how
evenly you are throwing.
Thickness/thinness is a tricky issue, and I am sure that many people =
will
disagree with me that thin is not always better. A pot should weigh =
what
you'd expect it to weigh. Too light is just as "off" as brick-like.
I was taught to hold the pot in my hands, cupping it from the bottom, to =
get
a sense of balance and weight.
If thinner walls is really what you're after, then it depends on your =
clay
and your forms and much as your skill. Earthenware is horrible when it =
is
eggshell thin, and I don't particularly care for paper thin stoneware
either.
I haven't really answered your question, but I also haven't seen of felt
your pots. Pick them up from the bottoms, not the rims, and see if you =
can
feel a difference.
****
Lois Ruben Aronow Ceramics
www.loisaronow.com
www.craftsofthedamned.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Stephanie
Wright
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 8:28 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Any tips on throwing thinner walls?
Hi Everybody!
Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner walls?
I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are pretty =
good,
and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes and height =
that I
want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a =
visual of
almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on vase and
bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well to =
each
other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the walls, =
even
after I trim alot off. Help, please!
Stephanie
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
claystevslat on sat 3 mar 07
Stephanie --
One easy way to do this is to throw to the wall width that's
comfortable for you but with the wall not as far out from the center
point as you ultimately want it to be. Then when you enlarge the
diameter to what you want it to be at the end the thickness of the
wall will be correspondingly smaller.
In the case of a bottle, you'd have to throw the form initially with
the narrowest possible width overall, then expand the shape
(probably with a throwing tool) to get the overall volume and shape
you want.
JM2C -- Steve S
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Stephanie Wright
wrote:
>
> Hi Everybody!
>
> Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner
walls?
>
> I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are
pretty
> good, and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes
and height
> that I want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
>
> This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a
visual
> of almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on
vase and
> bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well
to each
> other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the
walls, even
> after I trim alot off. Help, please!
Lee Love on sat 3 mar 07
On 3/3/07, Stephanie Wright wrote:
> More of a problem on vase and
> bottle forms.
Stephanie,
I have written about several techniques previously. I
would recommend using a throwing stick. They really make bottles a
lot easier, because you can keep the neck small while bellying out the
bottom and middle.
You cone up the clay to the height you want. Then you run
a straight throwing stick or a dowel down the middle. You then use
the egote/throwing stick to belly out the form.
Look at Chris Henley's tools. TS4 is a good shape for most things:
http://www.hominid.net/lift2.htm
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
John K on sat 3 mar 07
Stephanie, In the final stages of your throwing rely on stretching the
form--swelling it from the inside. It is much like blowing up a balloon,
the more it inflates the thinner the rubber becomes. And of course you know
what happens if you keep expanding the balloon !
In trimming pieces which you can reach inside, put several push pins into
the wall. While trimming, when you hit the pin you know how thick the wall
is. You will be amazed how far down you have to trim to hit the pin. You
will swear the pin must have fallen out! (I never have had one fall out.)
Push the needle back with a wooden point, rub the hole shut and clean
up your trimming job. The pins come in various colors. You can grind or
file them down to the wall thickness you want, each color representing a
different thickness. You might place two at different distances from the
bottom and one near the center of the bottom of the piece. I got the idea
from the "Helpful Hints" column in CM and use it when I am not familiar with
a certain shape.
John Kudlacek
On 3/2/07, claystevslat wrote:
>
> Stephanie --
>
> One easy way to do this is to throw to the wall width that's
> comfortable for you but with the wall not as far out from the center
> point as you ultimately want it to be. Then when you enlarge the
> diameter to what you want it to be at the end the thickness of the
> wall will be correspondingly smaller.
>
> In the case of a bottle, you'd have to throw the form initially with
> the narrowest possible width overall, then expand the shape
> (probably with a throwing tool) to get the overall volume and shape
> you want.
>
> JM2C -- Steve S
>
> --- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Stephanie Wright
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everybody!
> >
> > Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner
> walls?
> >
> > I have gotten to the point in my pottery now that my forms are
> pretty
> > good, and I am doing well manipulating the clay into the shapes
> and height
> > that I want. But my pots are still soooo heavy!
> >
> > This is less of a problem for me on bowls and mugs, where I have a
> visual
> > of almost the entire thickness of the piece. More of a problem on
> vase and
> > bottle forms. My fingers don't seem to communicate thickness well
> to each
> > other when I throw. The thickest part is in the bottom of the
> walls, even
> > after I trim alot off. Help, please!
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ron Roy on sat 3 mar 07
I'd like to agree with Antoinette in this - it's the inside shape that is
important - so you have the shape you want after trimming and the walls are
even. It means you have to "see" with your fingers rather than your eyes
when making a closed form. Much easier to do with a bowl or platter of
course.
One way to "see" if you have trimmed enough off is to push the clay with
your thumbs- with your hands on the pot - if you can feel the clay move you
have probably trimmed enough - unless the clay is too soft for trimming.
RR
>I agree with Lois. Pots should be as thick as they look. Stephanie my bet is
>that you create your shapes by forming them from the outside. That is one of
>the most common mistakes potters make. By the time you have trimmed the
>shape you want (from the outside) there are still too much clay left and you
>have a too heavy pot. Try to shape your pots on the inside to look as you
>want their final shape outside. When you trim away the access clay, you can
>just follow the inside contours and end up with even walls.
>Throwing taller pieces always leave more clay at the bottom unless you are a
>strong and very good thrower. To help fix that problem you can create a dent
>right at the bottom of the clay you want to pull up. Instead of pressing the
>clay thinner, try to push the wall of clay that appears above the dent
>upward. It might take a few tries and your clay should not be too soft.
>I hope this advice is clear and helpful.
>Best wishes.
>Antoinette Badenhorst
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Michael Wendt on sat 3 mar 07
Many good tips have been given on this so
I want to add a non-destructive test for
wall thickness.
Earlier, someone suggested push pins with
plastic heads as a trimming aid.
The same concept can be applied to wall
thickness testing during throwing.
Grind the point off the push pin and alter
the length until it is the desired wall thickness.
Stop the wheel and place one finger inside
to check for contact as you lightly push the
pin through the wall. If you can't feel it, the
wall is still too thick.
As a side note, my teacher, Frank Cronk,
insisted that we master the cylinder blank
before we were allowed to move on into
other shapes. He cut all of them in half and
pointed out the wall variance. We were
expected to throw the wall to the correct
thickness without trimming it at all in this
exercise.
Anyone having this problem could set
themselves the task of throwing and cutting
cylinders until they can throw a uniformly
thin wall.
Then move on to the shape.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
Antoinette Badenhorst on sat 3 mar 07
Michael, I second the cylinder thing absolutely! Keep adding to the =
amount
of clay and height until you can throw 12" high without trouble. Once =
one
can do that, shapes comes naturally.
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS, 38866
662 869 1651
www.clayandcanvas.com
www.southernartistry.org
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Michael =
Wendt
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 2:45 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Any tips on throwing thinner walls?
Many good tips have been given on this so
I want to add a non-destructive test for
wall thickness.
Earlier, someone suggested push pins with
plastic heads as a trimming aid.
The same concept can be applied to wall
thickness testing during throwing.
Grind the point off the push pin and alter
the length until it is the desired wall thickness.
Stop the wheel and place one finger inside
to check for contact as you lightly push the
pin through the wall. If you can't feel it, the
wall is still too thick.
As a side note, my teacher, Frank Cronk,
insisted that we master the cylinder blank
before we were allowed to move on into
other shapes. He cut all of them in half and
pointed out the wall variance. We were
expected to throw the wall to the correct
thickness without trimming it at all in this
exercise.
Anyone having this problem could set
themselves the task of throwing and cutting
cylinders until they can throw a uniformly
thin wall.
Then move on to the shape.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Taylor Hendrix on sat 3 mar 07
Antionette,
What you say is slowly becoming true for me. I think one of the
quickest ways to learn to throw thinner walls is to collapse alot of
cylinders along the way. There is that great moment when you see the
cylinder just begin to wrinkle and you ease off. A little ribbing to
reinvigorate the clay and ta da, thin but sturdy walls.
Really, push - push - push, collaps - collaps - collaps, learn the
feel - learn the feel - learn the feel.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 3/3/07, Antoinette Badenhorst wrote:
> Michael, I second the cylinder thing absolutely! Keep adding to the amount
> of clay and height until you can throw 12" high without trouble. Once one
> can do that, shapes comes naturally.
louroess2210 on sat 3 mar 07
On Mar 2, 2007, at 6:27 PM, Stephanie Wright wrote:
> Does anyone have any tips they can share on how to throw thinner
> walls?
Hi Stephanie. It always amuses me when people tell you the way to
solve your problem is to practice, as though somehow practicing the
wrong thing over and over will help you eventually do it right.
Do you have a speakerphone? If we could get together by phone in
your studio I would be glad to talk you through a couple of tips that
have helped me. They may or may not help you, but it's worth a try.
I started to write them out and it got so complicated I gave up.
The actual doing is not complicated but the explaining on paper is.
Email me off list and maybe we can get together.
All the best, Lou
Stephanie Wright on sun 4 mar 07
Hi and thank you to everyone for all the great suggestions. I must be on
the right track, since this past week I collapsed alot of cylinders! :-)
I am rather intrigued by the pushpin in wet clay method. It would be
interesting to give that a try. And since I am now at the point where I am
learning to throw matching items (mugs, etc), it will be a good exercise
at the same time to match shape/size while decreasing my amount of
starting clay.
I will keep you posted as to how things turn out. It will either be a big
YEAH! or I will not be taking any photos for awhile due to large patches
of hair having been torn out. Either way, I am determined!
Stephanie
In PA, where I can't wait for Spring to hurry up and arrive! Cold - Bah,
Phooey!!!!
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sun 4 mar 07
Dear Stephanie Wright,
<communicate thickness well to each other when I throw. The thickest part =
is in the bottom of the walls, even after I trim alot off.>>
There seem to be two problems here. The first is coordinating your hands =
so that you can get the squeeze between your fingertips as you are =
raising the clay. The second is understanding the nature of clay and how =
it behaves.
The first arises because you are having to work "blind" on tall slender =
cylinders.You cannot use your sight to keep the geometric relationship =
between the active parts of your hands constant. Developing that sort of =
spatial awareness takes time and comes with practice.
The second is solved by realising that all clays have mechanical limits =
when stress is applied. Beyond a certain pressure they distort. Clay =
that forms the wall of a tall pot is subject to gravitational stress. =
The greater the load that is being supported the more the supporting =
clay will deform due to gravitational stress. It does this by spreading. =
Because it is a cylinder it is constrained around the circumference and =
clay at the base of the wall moves inwards and outwards. You will find =
this if you do as has been suggested and cut samples of your throwing =
into sections to view the thickness of the wall from rim to base. Even =
if an eighteen inch cylinder is thrown from six pounds of clay you will =
find it has a walls that is thicker at the base than at its rim.
James Fox had an article "Dry Throwing" published in Ceramic Monthly Vol =
21, No 8 Oct 1973, pp 22-6. This method is described by Leon Nigrosh, =
"Claywork, Form and Idea in Ceramic Design", pp 87-8. By restricting the =
amount of water used in throwing and using no more when the basic =
cylinder has been created your clay does not soak in water that would =
reduce its stiffness or plastic strength.
From then on the pot wall is thought of as three section: top, middle =
and bottom. First the top third is drawn up. Then the middle section is =
drawn up so that it has the same thickness as the upper portion. Then =
the lowest portion is drawn up working to achieve the same reduced =
thickness.
By doing this a thrower exploits the greater strength of thicker clay =
that rests below the portion being thinned. This concept can be carried =
to an absurd limit. Commencing at the rim of a prototype cylinder, force =
your fingertip down the pot causing its rim to rise upwards as your =
hands move to the base. It is possible to get tall thin walled =
cylinders. But it demands considerable manual dexterity and muscular =
control.
By the way, well mixed clay slurry is a better throwing lubricant than =
water.
I wish you success with your quest.
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Jacqui Kruzewski on sun 4 mar 07
I tried this method, as told to me by Ivor, some years ago and have never
stopped -in other words, it works. I was then a very novice thrower who had
taught myself pretty much all I knew. I struggled with walls higher than 6
inches. Ivor's instruction made a big difference in my throwing.
Since then I've had hands-on help with throwing during my degree course. One
thing I never had much of a problem with was getting the walls higher and
thinner because I used this method. We had an exercise, taught by "old
school" throwers, that is worth doing - they called it a "pound and a pint".
Ball up 1lb lumps of clay and throw cylinders as tall as you can - so the
fired pot will hold at least a pint of liquid. They will get taller and
thinner as you proceed, just through practice. The idea was also to get the
walls straight and even. Our tutor would then go along the line cutting the
cylinders up the middle so we could see how even our throwing was. The
surviving cylinders were good for handling and playing with glazes -
everyone I knew had big pint+ mugs that year.
Jacqui
North Wales
In just over a week I start out for NCECA - will have a day or two either
side for exploring Louisville. I'm looking forward to seeing everyone and
getting the "buzz" I so need.
>From then on the pot wall is thought of as three section: top, middle and
>bottom. First the top third is drawn up. Then the middle section is drawn
>up so that it has the same thickness as the upper portion. Then the lowest
>portion is drawn up working to achieve the same reduced thickness.
_________________________________________________________________
Rate your skiving credentials with our Slack-o-meter
http://www.slack-o-meter.com
Lois Ruben Aronow on sun 4 mar 07
I am intrigued by it too, as I was taught by cutting forms in half and also
by throwing with eyes closed, no tools, and feel.
Kids these days.... ;-)
>I am rather intrigued by the pushpin in wet clay method. It would be
interesting to give >that a try.
John K on sun 4 mar 07
WOOAAAHHHH! Please don't put the push pins in the wet clay while throwing.
The method is for trimming. ( Perhaps I was confused by your
response.) Good luck. John
On 3/3/07, Stephanie Wright wrote:
>
> Hi and thank you to everyone for all the great suggestions. I must be on
> the right track, since this past week I collapsed alot of cylinders! :-)
>
> I am rather intrigued by the pushpin in wet clay method. It would be
> interesting to give that a try. And since I am now at the point where I am
> learning to throw matching items (mugs, etc), it will be a good exercise
> at the same time to match shape/size while decreasing my amount of
> starting clay.
>
> I will keep you posted as to how things turn out. It will either be a big
> YEAH! or I will not be taking any photos for awhile due to large patches
> of hair having been torn out. Either way, I am determined!
>
> Stephanie
>
> In PA, where I can't wait for Spring to hurry up and arrive! Cold - Bah,
> Phooey!!!!
>
>
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Michael Wendt on mon 5 mar 07
John,
You misunderstood.
Normally, we take the pin tool
and poke it through to check
the wall but your suggestion
of push pins could be adapted
by making ONE push pin the
wall thickness indicator pin.
Blunting the tip a little and
grinding it to the desired length
would make it the official wall
thickness tester.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
John wrote:
"WOOAAAHHHH! Please don't put the push pins in the wet
clay while throwing.
The method is for trimming. ( Perhaps I was confused by
your
response.) Good luck. John
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