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concrete board on outside of kiln?

updated wed 7 mar 07

 

Hank Murrow on sun 4 mar 07


On Mar 4, 2007, at 5:35 PM, Dawn Raburn wrote:

> Still working on building my kiln. Got the walls up and there are
> maybe a couple of places where I can see a slit of daylight coming
> through the wall courses. What do you use for plugging these holes?
> What would it do to frame the outside with concrete board?

Dear Dawn;

It is IMHO always a good idea to sheath a kiln with air-impervious
material to cut down on gas transfer in both directions through the
walls. It will help in creating even reduction conditions, as well as
illimitating cool air getting through the bricks during cooling. My own
kiln is so tight that 1/4" of damoer movement will throw it into strong
reduction.

Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank

Hank Murrow on sun 4 mar 07


On Mar 4, 2007, at 5:35 PM, Dawn Raburn wrote:

> Still working on building my kiln. Got the walls up and there are
> maybe a couple of places where I can see a slit of daylight coming
> through the wall courses. What do you use for plugging these holes?
> What would it do to frame the outside with concrete board?
>
Dear Dawn;

It is always a good idea to sheath a brick kiln with air-impervious
materials. This will reduce gas leakage during reduction, promoting a
more even reduction, while at the same time prevent air incursion
through the brick during the cooling cycle.

My kiln is so tight that 1/4" of damper movement will throw it into
strong reduction, and reduction is very even throughout the chamber.

Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank

Dawn Raburn on sun 4 mar 07


Still working on building my kiln. Got the walls up and there are
maybe a couple of places where I can see a slit of daylight coming
through the wall courses. What do you use for plugging these holes?
What would it do to frame the outside with concrete board?

Dawn

Andy Misner on tue 6 mar 07


The outside skin is a great idea. You can also plug the hole with a product
that we sell called LDS moldable. It comes in a caulking tube and is good
for 2,300 degrees F.

Andy Misner
www.indfirebrick.com

On Sun, 4 Mar 2007 21:08:45 -0800, Hank Murrow wrote:

>On Mar 4, 2007, at 5:35 PM, Dawn Raburn wrote:
>
>> Still working on building my kiln. Got the walls up and there are
>> maybe a couple of places where I can see a slit of daylight coming
>> through the wall courses. What do you use for plugging these holes?
>> What would it do to frame the outside with concrete board?
>
>Dear Dawn;
>
>It is IMHO always a good idea to sheath a kiln with air-impervious
>material to cut down on gas transfer in both directions through the
>walls. It will help in creating even reduction conditions, as well as
>illimitating cool air getting through the bricks during cooling. My own
>kiln is so tight that 1/4" of damoer movement will throw it into strong
>reduction.
>
>Cheers, Hank
>www.murrow.biz/hank
>
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