Taylor Hendrix on wed 7 mar 07
Interesting observation here (well, at least to me):
Several years ago David Hendley demonstrated a lidded container by
throwing a closed form and pushing in for the flange. I always thought
that was pretty cool. When Lezlie was here in February, she mentioned
the technique and showed me how she does it. Right after she left for
AZ I came across a few old CT and in the very first one I opened up
there was Van Gilder's article on throwing easy lidded containers.
I tried some the other day and they went pretty well. What I noticed
after trimming up the lids and the bottoms so they would fit nice and
snug (inside of lids, outside of bottom's flange) was that the outside
of the top and bottom would not match exactly. I trimmed the body up
to be flush with the lid. I didn't take EXTREME care in centering for
trimming but I don't think I was too off. Perhaps the lids moved
during trimming. At any rate, the top and bottom of my closed forms
were not concentric anyway. I noticed that when tap centering. Perhaps
that happened at throwing when I pushed in for the gallery. Maybe I
pushed the top off round?
After trimming, the lids fit very snuggly and I dried top and bottom
side by side on pieces of lath to speed drying. Just about the point
when the clay begins to change color I tried fitting lids again and
found that every one of them were too small for their bottoms. DRAT! I
don't have a Bison to trim up boiled leather hard pots, so I thought I
was screwed. The very next day I went out to take the newspaper off
the top and lo and behold now every lid fits nicely with just a smidge
of play. Both tops and bottoms dried next to each other, bottoms
inverted, lids upright.
Any speculation as to why? Walls were a bit thicker than I would have
liked but I didn't know if pushing in the gallery needed thicker walls
or not. Mostly pleased and will be bisquing them tomorrow if they
dried out enough in the sun today. If I remember, I'll post pics when
I return home tonight.
Peace out, peoples,
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
Angela Davis on wed 7 mar 07
Hello young man in TX, sounds like your lids being smaller dried
quicker than the bodies and shrunk first. The bodies caught up later.
I like to dry lids on the pot, I take a strip of paper towel and drape it
over the gallery and leave a couple inches hanging out both sides.
Then place the lid. The paper towel allows easy removal of the lid.
Your all in one lids might be a bit damp to put right back on the pot
but I would get them in their proper position asap.
We watched Bill demo the one piece lidded form at the Baltimore NCECA,
if you keep your eyes open in Louisville there's no tellen' what you'll
learn.
See Ya,
Angela Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:42 PM
Subject: Lidded containers drying
> Interesting observation here (well, at least to me):
>
> Several years ago David Hendley demonstrated a lidded container by
> throwing a closed form and pushing in for the flange. I always thought
> that was pretty cool. When Lezlie was here in February, she mentioned
> the technique and showed me how she does it. Right after she left for
> AZ I came across a few old CT and in the very first one I opened up
> there was Van Gilder's article on throwing easy lidded containers.
>
> I tried some the other day and they went pretty well. What I noticed
> after trimming up the lids and the bottoms so they would fit nice and
> snug (inside of lids, outside of bottom's flange) was that the outside
> of the top and bottom would not match exactly. I trimmed the body up
> to be flush with the lid. I didn't take EXTREME care in centering for
> trimming but I don't think I was too off. Perhaps the lids moved
> during trimming. At any rate, the top and bottom of my closed forms
> were not concentric anyway. I noticed that when tap centering. Perhaps
> that happened at throwing when I pushed in for the gallery. Maybe I
> pushed the top off round?
>
> After trimming, the lids fit very snuggly and I dried top and bottom
> side by side on pieces of lath to speed drying. Just about the point
> when the clay begins to change color I tried fitting lids again and
> found that every one of them were too small for their bottoms. DRAT! I
> don't have a Bison to trim up boiled leather hard pots, so I thought I
> was screwed. The very next day I went out to take the newspaper off
> the top and lo and behold now every lid fits nicely with just a smidge
> of play. Both tops and bottoms dried next to each other, bottoms
> inverted, lids upright.
>
> Any speculation as to why? Walls were a bit thicker than I would have
> liked but I didn't know if pushing in the gallery needed thicker walls
> or not. Mostly pleased and will be bisquing them tomorrow if they
> dried out enough in the sun today. If I remember, I'll post pics when
> I return home tonight.
>
> Peace out, peoples,
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
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> 9:24 AM
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>
Jeanette Harris on wed 7 mar 07
> in the very first one I opened up
>there was Van Gilder's article on throwing easy lidded containers.
>
>I tried some the other day and they went pretty well. What I noticed
>after trimming up the lids and the bottoms so they would fit nice and
>snug (inside of lids, outside of bottom's flange) was that the outside
>of the top and bottom would not match exactly. I trimmed the body up
>to be flush with the lid.
I don't dry the two parts separately. But it does take a lot longer
for them to dry, but that's okay.
If you make the bottom flange the 'outtie' and the top flange the
'innie' there's less trouble because when you're trimming, the
tendency to push the two parts a bit further out on the bottom and
the lid a bit more toward the interior won't hurt the fit.
Another trick: make a tiny continuous vertical mark on both the lid
and the bottom so that you can match the pieces back up should you
want to separate them at any time. A pencil mark would be good since
it will burn off. Or you could add a little worm of clay vertically
and cut it at the separation between the lid and bottom. You can
always trim it off when you don't need it any more.
--
http://jeanetteharrisblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.washingtonpotters.org/members/Jeanette_Harris/wpa_jeanette_harris.htm
Jeanette Harris
Poulsbo WA
William & Susan Schran User on thu 8 mar 07
On 3/7/07 8:54 PM, "Angela Davis" wrote:
> I like to dry lids on the pot, I take a strip of paper towel and drape it
> over the gallery and leave a couple inches hanging out both sides.
I teach my students a similar method, but I have them tear a long strip of
newspaper (actually 2 pieces) about an inch wide. This is laid on top of the
lid before it is removed from the bat, prior to trimming. A bat is laid on
the lid and both bats with lid sandwiched between are flipped over. This
prevents distorting the lid. The lid is picked up with the strip of paper
and placed in the gallery of the pot for trimming. Checking the thickness of
the lid is as simple as picking up the strip of paper that hangs out.
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Taylor Hendrix on thu 8 mar 07
Angela,
That's what I thought eventhough the pieces were right next to each
other and of similar thickness. Once again, size does matter. Of
course I'm trying to get these things dry so I can bisque before NCECA
so off went the lids. I'm hoping for no blowouts in the bisque.
No need for paper separators with this method as one doesn't trim off
the lid until medium leather hard. I didn't quite catch it in time and
mine were a bit firmer.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 3/7/07, Angela Davis wrote:
...
> I like to dry lids on the pot, I take a strip of paper towel and drape it
> over the gallery and leave a couple inches hanging out both sides.
...
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