Noel Gilliam on wed 7 mar 07
Glenn,
Me thinks you think too hard!
If you just lay them flat on the shelf...they won't bend in the first place! ;-)
Noel, outside of Atlanta where I just spent an enjoyable nine weeks hearing more jems such as these and getting inspired to do wonderful and great things with my clay!
Thanks, Glenn!
Noel Gilliam
Chattahoochee Hill Country
Palmetto, Georgia
www.impressionsatlittlehouse.com
>
> From: Glenn Dair
> Date: 2007/03/07 Wed PM 09:35:38 EST
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re-usable Cone Packs
>
> I've been spending way too much time trying to think of a way to make my cone packs less costly (all those little boxes add up to a lot of money by the end of the year). I'm also looking for the innovation that will make me a famous potter, because I realize that all the good ideas are already taken, so I must look elsewhere. I was brainstorming with one of my assistants today, and we came up with these ideas:
> 1. wrap the cones in stainless steel springs. As they cool, the springs will stand them back up, ready for the next firing (also good for telling you when you are losing temperature in a firing).
>
> 2. Every other firing, suspend the cone packs upside-down between posts. As the kiln gets hot, the cones will straighten out. This I call the Austrailian Method.
>
> Has anyone already though of this? Should I perhaps concentrate my efforts on little ceramic frogs?
>
> Glenn Dair at Callanwolde/Atlanta, where Julia Galloway just turned us all upside down.
>
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Glenn Dair on wed 7 mar 07
I've been spending way too much time trying to think of a way to make my =
cone packs less costly (all those little boxes add up to a lot of money =
by the end of the year). I'm also looking for the innovation that will =
make me a famous potter, because I realize that all the good ideas are =
already taken, so I must look elsewhere. I was brainstorming with one of =
my assistants today, and we came up with these ideas:
1. wrap the cones in stainless steel springs. As they cool, the springs =
will stand them back up, ready for the next firing (also good for =
telling you when you are losing temperature in a firing).
2. Every other firing, suspend the cone packs upside-down between posts. =
As the kiln gets hot, the cones will straighten out. This I call the =
Austrailian Method.
Has anyone already though of this? Should I perhaps concentrate my =
efforts on little ceramic frogs?
Glenn Dair at Callanwolde/Atlanta, where Julia Galloway just turned us =
all upside down.
Anne Webb on thu 8 mar 07
lol.. like your australian method!
i havent bought conepacks for a while now mostly cuz i dont usually think
to.. i seem to only remember as i'm stacking the kiln.. doh!
well for cheap cone packs we just use either wadding (which we already make
up for each firing).
you can also use your claybody and mix in vermiculite to open the body up to
make your conepacks.
..those arent reuseable tho...
the only reusable ones we use are ones we make out of softbrick (we usually
have old pieces of broken brick laying around). use a hacksaw and make
conepack sized blocks then use a pintool or a dremmel and bore out your cone
holes and voila! need to pay special attention that your cones sit deep
enough and are at the correct angle.
you can also lay them horizontally over a piece of broken shelf.. hanging
over edge like. they;ll bend, though you have to be careful to get your
leverage right so the cone doesnt fall off altogether.
prolly all stuff you know about already...
>From: Glenn Dair
>
>I've been spending way too much time trying to think of a way to make my
>cone packs less costly (all those little boxes add up to a lot of money by
>the end of the year). I'm also looking for the innovation that will make me
>a famous potter, because I realize that all the good ideas are already
>taken, so I must look elsewhere. I was brainstorming with one of my
>assistants today, and we came up with these ideas:
>1. wrap the cones in stainless steel springs. As they cool, the springs
>will stand them back up, ready for the next firing (also good for telling
>you when you are losing temperature in a firing).
>
>2. Every other firing, suspend the cone packs upside-down between posts. As
>the kiln gets hot, the cones will straighten out. This I call the
>Austrailian Method.
>
>Has anyone already though of this? Should I perhaps concentrate my efforts
>on little ceramic frogs?
>
>Glenn Dair at Callanwolde/Atlanta, where Julia Galloway just turned us all
>upside down.
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Ivor and Olive Lewis on fri 9 mar 07
Dear Glen Dair,
Great ideas. But I'm sure by the time you read this it will have been =
explained to you why you would have some pretty strange results after =
your third or fourth re-use.=20
I see both ideas as being unworkable for the same reason that a fully =
mature glaze is able to make a secure bond with overglaze enamels and =
with "on glaze" lustre decoration at temperatures as low as 600 deg C. =
The deformation eutectic temperature changes. Instead of retaining their =
original structural composition, matured cones acquire a vitreous phase =
with a low melting point.
Best regards,
Fredrick Paget on fri 9 mar 07
>
>
>I see both ideas as being unworkable for the same reason that a fully =
>mature glaze is able to make a secure bond with overglaze enamels and =
>with "on glaze" lustre decoration at temperatures as low as 600 deg C. =
>The deformation eutectic temperature changes. Instead of retaining their =
>original structural composition, matured cones acquire a vitreous phase =
>with a low melting point.
>Ivor
Oh damn, I thought the Australian method was so cool!
Now I wonder if we fired a cone 35, for example, to vitrification in
a suitable industrial kiln perhaps it would wag back and forth
indefinitely at cone 10 if used in the Australian Method (hanging
upside down) and alternating standing upright? (Cones actually run
all the way up to cone 45 but potters don't use them that high)
Fred
--
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
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