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disappointing but maybe informative m^6 glaze results

updated fri 16 mar 07

 

Leigh Whitaker on thu 8 mar 07


So I got my first tests back. The bad news is that they didn't turn out
great. The good news is that I think I know (at least partially) what the
problem is. I only tested 3 glazes so far. Variegated slate blue (VSB),
Caribbean sea green (CSG), and Waterfall Brown (WB). I tested them with dipping and
brushing on.

For the dipped ones CSG was a sickly transparent green with one dip, and a
pretty mottled glossy blue with two dips. WB was very thin looking brown with
one dip and dark brown with some gold overtones with two dips. The only
promising thing with the WB was on the inside edge of the cup there is about a
one inch area where I guess a lot of glaze built up, it looked just like it
was supposed to, with the goldish green dribbles. The dip test of the VSB was
pretty much like the CSG. So I'm thinking with all three of these glazes
that I just didn't get it on thick enough.

The ones where I brushed on the glaze were a bit better. The CSG was
actually a little greenish blue, but pretty. The VSG looked pretty much just like
it was supposed to matte and a pretty denim blue.

I've got some more bisqued cups now to try out a few more glazes. I think
I'm going to just do these again, trying to get them on thicker, and maybe add
one more glaze, bone probably, to test out.

Does my diagnosis seem right to anyone who knows about these glazes, or any
other suggestions?

TIA!!!!
Leigh



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Lisa E on thu 8 mar 07


Hi Leigh;

It definitely sounds like you have too much water. Let them settle and then
scoop off some water off the top.

When you dip a finger into the glaze, the glaze should stick to your entire
figure, kind of like buttermilk.

I am sure you will get lots of other suggestions also. But all is not lost,
your glazes are just too thin.

Lisa
www.LisaElbertsen.com


On 3/8/07, Leigh Whitaker wrote:
>
> So I got my first tests back. The bad news is that they didn't turn out
> great. The good news is that I think I know (at least partially)
> what the
> problem is. I only tested 3 glazes so far. Variegated slate blue (VSB),
> Caribbean sea green (CSG), and Waterfall Brown (WB). I tested them with
> dipping and
> brushing on.
>
> For the dipped ones CSG was a sickly transparent green with one dip, and a
> pretty mottled glossy blue with two dips. WB was very thin looking
> brown with
> one dip and dark brown with some gold overtones with two dips. The only
> promising thing with the WB was on the inside edge of the cup there
> is about a
> one inch area where I guess a lot of glaze built up, it looked just
> like it
> was supposed to, with the goldish green dribbles. The dip test of
> the VSB was
> pretty much like the CSG. So I'm thinking with all three of these glazes
> that I just didn't get it on thick enough.
>
> The ones where I brushed on the glaze were a bit better. The CSG was
> actually a little greenish blue, but pretty. The VSG looked pretty much
> just like
> it was supposed to matte and a pretty denim blue.
>
> I've got some more bisqued cups now to try out a few more
> glazes. I think
> I'm going to just do these again, trying to get them on thicker, and
> maybe add
> one more glaze, bone probably, to test out.
>
> Does my diagnosis seem right to anyone who knows about these glazes, or
> any
> other suggestions?
>
> TIA!!!!
> Leigh
>


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--
Lisa E
Sunny Daze Design Pottery Studio
SunnyDazeDesign@gmail.com
Squamish, BC Canada

www.lisaelbertsen.com http://picasaweb.google.com/SunnyDazeDesign

Barbara Lewis on thu 8 mar 07


Hi Leigh: I think it's easy to get the glazes mixed too thin. In about
1994 I took a workshop with Steven Hill at the Lee Arts Center in Arlington,
VA. When he arrived on Friday night and saw the glazes mixed, he was
disappointed because he had requested that he be allowed to mix the glazes.
He explained that when we mix glazes we whip air into the mix and it makes
the glazes appear thicker than they really are. In fact, the glazes were
mixed too thin.

I remember firing my first gas kiln and inviting friends to put work in and
I mixed all the glazes too thin. Boy did I feel bad. I am still amazed at
how little water it takes to mix a glaze. Don't be too hard on yourself.
But it sounds like the glazes have potential. Barbara

Leigh Whitaker on thu 8 mar 07


Thanks Barbara and Lisa!

I hope that they were just too thin. Would that make the Caribbean Sea
Green bluer rather than greener?

I am not too disappointed. It would have been cool if they had turned out
perfect the first time, but I didn't expect them to really. All the tests
were either on test cups or kind of garbag-ey first class bisqued stuff that I
didn't like so it's not like I ruined a great piece or anything.

Anyway, I wasn't sure how thick to mix them. I added about an equal weight
of water, but then they didn't brush well, so I took some water out and put
in some already dissolved CMC. I'm not sure exactly how much I took out. Now
I'm fearing I'm going to veer to far in the other direction and get them too
thick. I think I will be putting some tiles underneath these tests since we
are charged $45 if we drip on a shelf. Gaah!

Thanks again!
Leigh



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John Hesselberth on fri 9 mar 07


Hi Leigh,

Caribbean Sea Green turns from blue to green as the rutile
concentration increases. Look at the pictures in the book and you
will see that at 4.5% it is blue and at 6% it is green. But rutiles
are quite different and some potters have had to increase the rutile
level to 8 or even 10% to get it to go green. An occasional potter
has never been able to get the green with rutile they were using. I
used "Dark Rutile" when I developed the recipe, but whether the dark
rutile of today is similar enough to that of 5 years ago, I don't know.

Anyhow what I would do is take a small amount of the glaze you have
mixed, estimate the dry weight of what you use, and then add rutile
in a couple increments so you get into the 8-10% range and see what
happens. Also make sure you are really getting the glaze dispersed
well. Since your slop is thin, some of the rutile may have settled
out to the bottom of your bucket.

Regards,

John

On Mar 8, 2007, at 10:10 PM, Leigh Whitaker wrote:

> Would that make the Caribbean Sea
> Green bluer rather than greener?

Leigh Whitaker on fri 9 mar 07


In a message dated 3/9/2007 3:29:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
hesselberth@MINDSPRING.COM writes:

Hi Leigh,

Caribbean Sea Green turns from blue to green as the rutile
concentration increases. Look at the pictures in the book and you
will see that at 4.5% it is blue and at 6% it is green. But rutiles
are quite different and some potters have had to increase the rutile
level to 8 or even 10% to get it to go green. An occasional potter
has never been able to get the green with rutile they were using. I
used "Dark Rutile" when I developed the recipe, but whether the dark
rutile of today is similar enough to that of 5 years ago, I don't know.

Anyhow what I would do is take a small amount of the glaze you have
mixed, estimate the dry weight of what you use, and then add rutile
in a couple increments so you get into the 8-10% range and see what
happens. Also make sure you are really getting the glaze dispersed
well. Since your slop is thin, some of the rutile may have settled
out to the bottom of your bucket.

Regards,

John


Hmm, okay. That makes sense. I was looking at the pictures of the various
blues vs. the Caribbean Green, and marveling that the rutile percentage would
make that much of a difference, very neat. For that reason I wasn't so
surprised that mine turned out more bluish. A little while ago I just held the
pot that I brushed up to the picture in the book, and it's really not that far
off. The dipped one, however, is definitely blue. I can't remember exactly
when I did the dipped one in relation to when I did the brushed ones (with
regards to my dilutions and pouring off water and adding CMC). The rutile
settling may very well be the difference.

I will try the additions of increments of rutile as well.

Thanks!
Leigh



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Daryl Shafran on fri 9 mar 07


On Thu, 8 Mar 2007 17:59:59 EST, Leigh Whitaker
wrote:

>So I got my first tests back. The bad news is that they didn't turn out
>great. The good news is that I think I know (at least partially) what
the
>problem is. I only tested 3 glazes so far. Variegated slate blue (VSB),
>Caribbean sea green (CSG), and Waterfall Brown (WB). I tested them with
dipping and
>brushing on.
>
>For the dipped ones CSG was a sickly transparent green with one dip, and a
>pretty mottled glossy blue with two dips. WB was very thin looking
brown with
>one dip and dark brown with some gold overtones with two dips. The only
>promising thing with the WB was on the inside edge of the cup there is
about a
>one inch area where I guess a lot of glaze built up, it looked just like
it
>was supposed to, with the goldish green dribbles. The dip test of the
VSB was
>pretty much like the CSG. So I'm thinking with all three of these glazes
>that I just didn't get it on thick enough.
>
>The ones where I brushed on the glaze were a bit better. The CSG was
>actually a little greenish blue, but pretty. The VSG looked pretty much
just like
>it was supposed to matte and a pretty denim blue.
>
>I've got some more bisqued cups now to try out a few more glazes. I
think
>I'm going to just do these again, trying to get them on thicker, and
maybe add
>one more glaze, bone probably, to test out.
>
>Does my diagnosis seem right to anyone who knows about these glazes, or
any
>other suggestions?
>
>TIA!!!!
>Leigh
>


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>email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
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>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Just curious how you fired them? Did you slow cool?

Daryl

Leigh Whitaker on fri 9 mar 07


In a message dated 3/9/2007 4:24:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
shafran@SBCGLOBAL.NET writes:

Just curious how you fired them? Did you slow cool?

Daryl


Daryl,

I have to take them to a studio to get them fired since I don't have a kiln.
I asked the main kiln guy about the cooling temp, and he said they are
cooled slowly. I'm not thinking that's so much the problem because the matte was
matte, the glossy was glossy, and the Waterfall Brown 'almost' worked. I
don't know exactly how many degrees per hour it's cooled though. I will ask
again when this fellow isn't as busy as he was the day I asked.

Leigh





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sacredclay on fri 9 mar 07


Leigh, I've had a problem with one of the glaze, a powder blue I think.
It could be the chemicals in your water is affecting it, so you might
want to use distilled water instead. I'm told that usually solves the
problem. sometimes the chemicals could be mined elsewhere too. You have
to keep testing until you get it right. Varigated blue came out great
for me. Good luck!Ron can probably give better info than I can.
WArmly, Kathryn in NC

to test out.
>
> Does my diagnosis seem right to anyone who knows about these glazes,
or any
> other suggestions?
>
> TIA!!!!
> Leigh

sacredclay on sat 10 mar 07


John, Wow! That explains why mine camee out like cold off white. Thanks
for providing the additonal info. Warmly, Kathryn


> concentration increases. Look at the pictures in the book and you
> will see that at 4.5% it is blue and at 6% it is green. But rutiles
> are quite different and some potters have had to increase the rutile
> level to 8 or even 10% to get it to go green. An occasional potter
> has never been able to get the green with rutile they were using. I
> used "Dark Rutile" when I developed the recipe, but whether the dark
> Regards,
>
> John
>

Forest Butera on thu 15 mar 07


>>Does my diagnosis seem right to anyone who knows about these glazes, or
any other suggestions?<<

I've made most of them. I test them on the four clays I regularly use.
When they don't turn out as expected adding or subtracting water seems to
fix them.