sacredclay on sun 25 mar 07
There's a large oval electric kiln that I need to use steps to get up
on and put things in, despite my tall height. In leaning over the edge,
I've dislodged some soft bricks. Anyway to "glue" it back on? Kathryn
in NC
Arnold Howard on mon 26 mar 07
From: "sacredclay"
There's a large oval electric kiln that I need to use steps
to get up
on and put things in, despite my tall height. In leaning
over the edge,
I've dislodged some soft bricks.
-------------
Do the loose bricks have element grooves? If so you may
break an element trying to cement the bricks.
Were the bricks originally cemented together?
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
sacredclay on mon 26 mar 07
Yes, the elements groove are now exposed. No, they were never
cemented together. My leaning over them has broke them off from the
top. My boss has tapped them back into place, but I'm wondering if
there's something to keep them in there permantly, in case I lean
over them again. I'm not a skinny spring chicken but I'm no
championship wrassler either. Kathryn in NC --- In
clayart@yahoogroups.com, Arnold Howard wrote:
>
>
> Do the loose bricks have element grooves? If so you may
> break an element trying to cement the bricks.
>
> Were the bricks originally cemented together?
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@... / www.paragonweb.com
>
>
Arnold Howard on tue 27 mar 07
From: "sacredclay"
Yes, the elements groove are now exposed. No, they were
never
cemented together.
--------------
I would probably leave the damaged brick in place until the
next time you replace the top element. I wouldn't bother
trying to cement the broken brick groove. Since the brick is
in the top of the kiln, it is easier to replace than to
patch. Also, as long as the damaged brick still seals well
against the lid, a missing groove rarely affects heat
distribution.
If you want to replace the brick before the next element
change:
1) Heat the element in the damaged brick with a propane
torch until the element turns red. This takes only several
seconds.
2) With needle-nose pliers, move the element out of the
groove.
3) Lift the damaged brick out of the sidewall.
4) Loosen the kiln case if necessary. Slide in a new grooved
brick. It is likely that the new brick will be longer than
the old one. If so, the extra length may hold the new one in
place without using repair cement on the ends of the brick.
Tighten the kiln case.
5) Heat the element until red, and move it into the new
brick groove.
6) It may be necessary to sand the top of the new brick to
make it even with the others. Sand away as little brick as
possible using a sanding block.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Gary Navarre on tue 27 mar 07
Hi Folks,
I would imagine one could get some refractory cement and (2 or 3) 1" pieces
of straight element wire. Stick these through both brick and piece with
cement in place. If the element is old replace it anyway along with the
brick and not even mess with repairing the chip.
Something that might help next time is make a couple of sheet metal caps
that slip over the edge of the kiln wall while you load. That way your big
old gut won't brake off pieces of soft brick. I never cared for top loading
much. Always had to be careful not to rub kiln crap into bowls. Even being
skinny I don't think my lumbar could handle a top loader anymore either.
Stay in there ah!
G in da U.P.
sacredclay on tue 27 mar 07
Gary, that's a great idea! Whereabouts would I go to making one? By
the way, I worked hard to get my big old gut! All part of being a
bodacious woman! LOL Kathryn in NC --- In clayart@yahoogroups.com,
Gary Navarre wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I would imagine one could get some refractory cement and (2 or 3)
1" pieces
> of straight element wire. Stick these through both brick and piece
with
> cement in place. If the element is old replace it anyway along with
the
> brick and not even mess with repairing the chip.
>
> Something that might help next time is make a couple of sheet
metal caps
> that slip over the edge of the kiln wall while you load. That way
your big
> old gut won't brake off pieces of soft brick. I never cared for top
loading
> much. Always had to be careful not to rub kiln crap into bowls.
Even being
> skinny I don't think my lumbar could handle a top loader anymore
either.
> Stay in there ah!
>
> G in da U.P.
>
>
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