Robert Speirs, M.D. 766 X4450 on fri 28 feb 97
Hi all! I will be building an addition onto my house this summer for my
studio. I have met with a contractor and gave him blueprints that I had
drawn up last year.
Before I finalize with him, I am sure there are numerous things I do not
know to ask for or things I've forgotten. Perhaps you have some words
of advice for me. It will be about 460 sq.ft., one main room and a very
small one for the kiln and spray booth. I use commercial clay and fire
in an electric kiln. I plan to buy a motorized Lockerbie wheel - does
anyone know the cheapest place to buy one of these?
I also plan to use baseboard heaters so no air is blowing dust around
and put a clay trap in the sink. Any better ideas??
I know this is a real non-specific kind of request, but I hope you can
help. Thanks a bunch.
Laura in Oregon
Brooks Burgess on sat 1 mar 97
At 07:07 AM 2/28/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi all! I will be building an addition onto my house this summer for my
> studio. I have met with a contractor and gave him blueprints that I had
> drawn up last year.
>
> Before I finalize with him, I am sure there are numerous things I do not
> know to ask for or things I've forgotten. Perhaps you have some words
> of advice for me. It will be about 460 sq.ft., one main room and a very
> small one for the kiln and spray booth. I use commercial clay and fire
> in an electric kiln. I plan to buy a motorized Lockerbie wheel - does
> anyone know the cheapest place to buy one of these?
>
> I also plan to use baseboard heaters so no air is blowing dust around
> and put a clay trap in the sink. Any better ideas??
>
> I know this is a real non-specific kind of request, but I hope you can
> help. Thanks a bunch.
>
> Laura in Oregon
>
>Laura,
My studio is a converted 2 car garage attached to house. If I could do it
over again , I would NOT have studio attached to house. Seems like no amount
of mopping will keep dust under control. My 2 cents of hindsight.
Brooks
Karen Gringhuis on sat 1 mar 97
Laura - my idea of died-and-gone-to heaven would be a major drain in
the floor - this assumes a cement floor. a long drain grid so I could
just hose down the floor. Obviously this drain should not empty into anything i
my glaze space in an industrial room outfitted with such drains
& they're great. Karen Gringhuis
Sylvia See on sat 1 mar 97
Hi Laura,
The best advice I can give is to expect it to be not enough room. Don't
set yourself up for a disappointment. Be prepared to adjust.
I started in a large room we call our entrance room or porch. It is 15
by 15 and I had shelves filling every wall. Well I was soon in the way as
my husband could hardly move around to get in and out in his wheelchair. So
I moved to a large room in the basement, called the furnace room. Then the
doctor said the dust could go throughtout the house through the furnace
filter. So I moved to a spare bedroom in the basement. Put in the ductwork
for my airbrushing booth and was their for two years with extra supplies
all over the basement. We built a large garage, 23x30 and I finally decided
to put in a heater on MY side and use it for a studio, putting a wall
separating into 2 sections. My husband had the other side. I had my kiln in
my side and although it was vented, my canaries started to die so I moved
the kiln to to back of my husbands side. A friend introduced me to Raku so
I snapped up a second hand electric kiln, put it on wheels and attached a
lid opener/holder with a metal fence post attached to a pulley, and it
started to occupy the back end of my husbands side. Then I went to a great
primitive workshop so I snapped up a couple of old electric kilns for
sawdust firing and they started occupying the patio space. To make a long
story short, my husband and I both park our vehicles in the driveway now
and I now occupy the entire garage, have a basement full of bisquware, a
furnaceroom full of boxed finished pottery for shipment, a cold room full
of sawdust in boxes, a wheel setup on the patio for summer throwing, wheel
back in porch room for winter throwing, a huge potters field under the
shrubs, and I am very happy with it all.
Sylvia See
sylviac@telusplanet.net
> Before I finalize with him, I am sure there are numerous things I do
not
> know to ask for or things I've forgotten. Perhaps you have some words
> of advice for me. It will be about 460 sq.ft., one main room and a
very
> small one for the kiln and spray booth. I use commercial clay and fire
> in an electric kiln. I plan to buy a motorized Lockerbie wheel - does
> anyone know the cheapest place to buy one of these?
> Laura in Oregon
Ken Nowicki on sat 1 mar 97
Laura,
I too will be watching for responses to your post. :) I am going to be
converting an existing 2-car garage into my studio in the coming months and
am looking for ideas to make it a better, more efficient studio. Some of the
things I'll be hoping to have are:
(a) Lots of "natural" light, via skylights, insulated rolling garage door
with windows, double doors (similar to french style - leading to cement pad
on side yard to kiln), extra windows, windows, & windows. :)
(b) Laundry sink (for now - stainless in future when room allows) with a clay
trap.
(c) Hot & Cold water
(d) Heat & Air Conditioning
(e) Wired for speakers (a must!)
(f) Phone (business line & home line)
(g) Storage space in rafters (or above cieling)
(h) Walls insulated, drywalled and painted
(i) Flourescent lighting overhead
(j) Shelving
(k) Painted concrete floors
That's about all I can think of for now... if any of you have any other
suggestions, please let me know? Thanks in advance for your input! :)
Ken Nowicki - RakuArtist@aol.com
The Shelfords on mon 3 mar 97
While people are answering > Laura in Oregon re ideas for her new studio,
could they throw in any experience they have had with air conditioning /
dust collection systems that are fine enough to work against the air-borne
silica in a studio?
Veronica on Thetis
Veronica Shelford
e-mail: shelford@island.net
s-mail: P.O. Box 6-15
Thetis Island, BC V0R 2Y0
Tel: (250) 246-1509
"Gullibility is the key to all adventures. The greenhorn is the ultimate
victor in all things; it is he who gets the most out of life." Chesterton
u1004425@warwick.net on mon 3 mar 97
Robert Speirs, M.D. 766 X4450 wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi all! I will be building an addition onto my house this summer for my
> studio. I have met with a contractor and gave him blueprints that I had
> drawn up last year.
>
> Before I finalize with him, I am sure there are numerous things I do not
> know to ask for or things I've forgotten. Perhaps you have some words
> of advice for me. It will be about 460 sq.ft., one main room and a very
> small one for the kiln and spray booth. I use commercial clay and fire
> in an electric kiln. I plan to buy a motorized Lockerbie wheel - does
> anyone know the cheapest place to buy one of these?
>
> I also plan to use baseboard heaters so no air is blowing dust around
> and put a clay trap in the sink. Any better ideas??
>
> I know this is a real non-specific kind of request, but I hope you can
> help. Thanks a bunch.
>
> Laura in OregonHi Laura!
Congrats on your new studio! How about electric outlets high on the wall?
I use mine for plugging in clip on lights, kinda simple spotlights, that
attach to shelves. Also, a piece of PVC piping stuck into your drain
allows water to separate from the gook, easy to clean up. Best of luck!
Marilyn in NY
Teresa Murphy(TMurphy889@aol.com) on tue 4 mar 97
I bought a motorized Lockerbie from Sax Arts and Crafts catalog last year and
I paid $620+shipping(about $35). I Believe they have gone up a bit but not
much. You might be able to order direct from the company, They are based in
California. If I can find the address I will E-mail it to you. Hope this
helps and congratulations on the new studio!
Teresa
lynne on tue 4 mar 97
Dear Laura and Ken,
I highly recommend obtaining a copy of Monona Rossol's book, "Keeping
Claywork Safe and Legal", a valuable reference for anyone venturing into a
classroom or private studio. I wish I had known at the beginning of my
career what I now know, after 27 years in teaching. This book (and Michael
McCann's, "Artist Beware"), should be required reading in all art and
ceramics classes and should be a part of every artist's/potter's permanent
collection. Rossol's book includes important information on ventilation
systems, vacuums and respirators.
CLAYARTERS: Would some of you please recommend your favorite
equipment--brand names, distributors, etc., and tell us why you chose this
equipment? I need to purchase a new respirator and a vacuum cleaner with a
HEPA filter.
Thanks in advance, and thank you Monona, for your valuable contributions to
our safety, and to the safety of all of our trusting students!
Lynne in Tucson
On March 3, Ken wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Laura,
>
>I too will be watching for responses to your post. :) I am going to be
>converting an existing 2-car garage into my studio in the coming months and
>am looking for ideas to make it a better, more efficient studio. Some of the
>things I'll be hoping to have are:
>
>(a) Lots of "natural" light, via skylights, insulated rolling garage door
>with windows, double doors (similar to french style - leading to cement pad
>on side yard to kiln), extra windows, windows, & windows. :)
>(b) Laundry sink (for now - stainless in future when room allows) with a clay
>trap.
>(c) Hot & Cold water
>(d) Heat & Air Conditioning
>(e) Wired for speakers (a must!)
>(f) Phone (business line & home line)
>(g) Storage space in rafters (or above cieling)
>(h) Walls insulated, drywalled and painted
>(i) Flourescent lighting overhead
>(j) Shelving
>(k) Painted concrete floors
>
>That's about all I can think of for now... if any of you have any other
>suggestions, please let me know? Thanks in advance for your input! :)
>
>Ken Nowicki - RakuArtist@aol.com
>
>
Fay & Ralph Loewenthal on tue 4 mar 97
Dear Laura, please make sure that you have an extractor
fan behind the spraybooth that blows your exhaust spray
and kiln fumes outside the building. I feel it is a good
idea to have both kiln and spraybooth in one room so
that you only need one extractor fan and ducting to the
outside. Good luck Ralph
Frank and Laura Bowne on wed 5 mar 97
Ken Nowicki wrote:
----------------------
> (a) Lots of "natural" light, via skylights, insulated rolling garage door
> with windows, double doors (similar to french style - leading to cement
pad
> on side yard to kiln), extra windows, windows, & windows. :)
> (b) Laundry sink (for now - stainless in future when room allows) with a
clay
> trap.
> (c) Hot & Cold water
> (d) Heat & Air Conditioning
> (e) Wired for speakers (a must!)
> (f) Phone (business line & home line)
> (g) Storage space in rafters (or above cieling)
> (h) Walls insulated, drywalled and painted
> (i) Flourescent lighting overhead
> (j) Shelving
> (k) Painted concrete floors
>
I was wondering why you recommended "painted" concrete floors- fogive me if
this has already been asked. We are having a concrete floor poured this
week for the new garage / studio and will be getting a "slick" finish
according to the builder. Will this suffice?
Thanks for any suggestions
=====================================================
Frank and Laura Bowne, Chincoteague, VA 23336 USA
Muddy Art Pottery
Email: bowne@shore.intercom.net
=====================================================
Gerry Barbe on wed 5 mar 97
A linoleum tiled floor makes all the difference regarding the dust
level. It is sooooo easy to damp mop daily. Tiling is a job that
you can do yourself to keep costs down. Remember to seal it before
you move in though..............Marilyn
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Laura - my idea of died-and-gone-to heaven would be a major drain in
> the floor - this assumes a cement floor. a long drain grid so I could
> just hose down the floor. Obviously this drain should not empty into anything
> my glaze space in an industrial room outfitted with such drains
> & they're great. Karen Gringhuis
>
>
Marilyn & Gerry Barbe
Ailsa Craig, On, CANADA
gbarbe@julian.uwo.ca
Ric Swenson on wed 5 mar 97
-----reply--------
Ken, Frank, Laurie...et al....
Regarding the studio space and in particular the finish of the floor. Mine
is a slick finish concrete and is easily cleaned....wet mopped. A rougher
finish doesn't become slick when wet.. and yet a bit harder to mop.....but
unless you're REALLY messy, your studio floor shouldn't be wet
anyway...should it?
I have seen many types of floors and types of finishes for concrete
floors...and I think that YOUR thought process is the important one here.
Think of using it...cleaning it, etc...what will work best for you?
A long time ago...(in a galaxy far, far away?)... I wrote an article for CM
"Selecting and Designing a Studio". ... 1981, I think it came out. I
tried to think of a lot of the challenges in setting up a studio....Ken
Stevens at Univ of Puget Sound got me started in a class...where we had to
write a paper...it took me a few years to build my studio in Anchorage and
get the article done....but maybe someone could benefit from the
research...? .I'm sure I left lots out, and the last 15 years have brought
many inovations, BUT....if anyone wants a copy of the article, send me your
fax number...or your snail mail address and I will send you a free copy.
Hope this helps.
Ric Swenson, Bennington , Vt
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Ken Nowicki wrote:
>----------------------
>> (a) Lots of "natural" light, via skylights, insulated rolling garage door
>> with windows, double doors (similar to french style - leading to cement
>pad
>> on side yard to kiln), extra windows, windows, & windows. :)
>> (b) Laundry sink (for now - stainless in future when room allows) with a
>clay
>> trap.
>> (c) Hot & Cold water
>> (d) Heat & Air Conditioning
>> (e) Wired for speakers (a must!)
>> (f) Phone (business line & home line)
>> (g) Storage space in rafters (or above cieling)
>> (h) Walls insulated, drywalled and painted
>> (i) Flourescent lighting overhead
>> (j) Shelving
>> (k) Painted concrete floors
>>
>
>I was wondering why you recommended "painted" concrete floors- fogive me if
>this has already been asked. We are having a concrete floor poured this
>week for the new garage / studio and will be getting a "slick" finish
>according to the builder. Will this suffice?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions
>
>=====================================================
> Frank and Laura Bowne, Chincoteague, VA 23336 USA
> Muddy Art Pottery
> Email: bowne@shore.intercom.net
>=====================================================
David Cowdrill on thu 6 mar 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Ken Nowicki wrote:
>----------------------
>> (snip)
>> (k) Painted concrete floors
>>
> (snip)
>I was wondering why you recommended "painted" concrete floors- fogive me if
>this has already been asked. We are having a concrete floor poured this
>week for the new garage / studio and will be getting a "slick" finish
>according to the builder. Will this suffice?
>
I also will have a new garage/studio in a few weeks. The slab concrete
floor has been poured and is very smooth. I'm planning to use Thompson's
Water Seal over the concrete. I want to be able to hose or mop it
frequently. Any experience / comments with this? tia
David Cowdrill in Great Falls, VA
Evan Dresel on thu 6 mar 97
At 10:08 PM 3-4-97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>CLAYARTERS: Would some of you please recommend your favorite
>equipment--brand names, distributors, etc., and tell us why you chose this
>equipment? I need to purchase a new respirator and a vacuum cleaner with a
>HEPA filter.
>Thanks in advance, and thank you Monona, for your valuable contributions to
>our safety, and to the safety of all of our trusting students!
>Lynne in Tucson
>
OK. Opinions (N. America oriented) follow:
There are probably a number of good respirators on the market but, personally
I would consider only two brands, Scott and MSA. These are the biggest names
in the emergency response and hazwaste business and deserve their reputation
for reliability and service. I have an MSA that must be 10 years old and can
still get a huge variety of filters for it. Around these parts it was easier
to get the HEPA cartridges that are rated for radionuclides as well as dusts,
mists, and asbestos, but that's just an example of the range that they support.
IMO it isn't a great idea to go to a hardware store or clay supply store and
get whatever brand they happen to have on the shelf and then have to worry
whether supplies are availible. I can also get any repair parts like
replacement valves -- not that I have needed any yet. I believe Scott makes
their respirators out of silicon -- an idea from Jacques Cousteau who was
allergic to rubber swim masks.
You probably will have to contact a safety supply company for these brands,
but I think it is worth the extra effort. Of course the number one thing is
to get one that fits and know how to use it.
-- Evan Dresel trying to think of something positive to say after a long
work day. Hey! Eastern Washington has great microbreweries!
Donald G. Goldsobel on fri 7 mar 97
At 11:08 PM 3/5/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>---Ken, Frank, Laurie...et al....
>
>Regarding the studio space and in particular the finish of the floor.
--reply--------
>
Iam in the process of designing a new free standing studio. Even though the
temperatures here do not go below freezing, I hate to work on a cold
concrete floor. I will havae a slab of concrete, sealed and layeredwith 3\4"
exterior grade plywood and then linoleum with coving at the walls. I feel
this will give a measure of insulation, keep the heating bill down a
bit,make for a quick clean floor and brighten the room.
Comments please!!
What about roof design and lighting sources???
Can't wait to get started.
Donald Goldsobel, in the San Fernando Vaalaley where spring has sprung with
a vengance>
Margaret Arial on wed 12 mar 97
drylock is a better choice if you wish it to be waterproof, it comes in a
couple colors in some localities.
Margaret
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