Eva Whitehead on tue 24 apr 07
Robert, If I were you I would go to Google and type in Kilns. It should
bring up
a bunch of different models. That way you can check some of them out and
order a
catalog of the ones you think might be the one to suit your needs.
I hope this might help you, as there may be a Kiln distributor not too far
from where
you now live.
Good Luck,
ew
**************************************
See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
Robert Harris on tue 24 apr 07
Hi All,
I am a long time lurker but I now have a real question for everyone
out there.
I am in the market for a new kiln.I recently moved from the UK so I am
not particularly familiar with US makes and models. (Not to mention
that I fire in centrigrade and get very confused when I am talking
about 2300 degress....). So I need help of the sort that has been
infinitely discussed in the old archives, but I'd like a few 'surrent'
opinions.
I currently fire to 1260(ish) centrigrade, which, I am informed by
Google, is 2300F. This is about cone 9. I therefore need a good cone
10 kiln. Although I would love to get a Paragon Viking, my electrician
tells me that he does not want to put a 60 AMP (draw) kiln on my 100 A
sub-breaker. The next size down all seem to be 48A +/- (on a 60A
breaker) which he is fine with.
From what I can see ( and I have looked on the old clayart archives)
my best options (mostly because of the extra insulation) are the Skutt
1027-3, or a ConeArt 2327. I like the idea of the extra fibre
insulation in the ConeArt but precious little (good or bad) has been
said about these kilns in the archives.
Would someone please take pity on a confused emigre and tell me qhich
kiln to buy (or should I just flip a coin)
Robert
Gainesville
FL
John Fulwood on tue 24 apr 07
Hi Robert,
I do not have much advice on the kiln you should buy because I single fore in a gas kiln. I would however suggest you check out Bennetts pottery supply if you go with the skutt. I have been buying from Joan at Bennetts for 30 years. Her prices and her service are great.
Good luck,
John Fulwood
-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Harris
>Sent: Apr 24, 2007 4:06 PM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Advice on Kilns
>
>Hi All,
>
>I am a long time lurker but I now have a real question for everyone
>out there.
>
>I am in the market for a new kiln.I recently moved from the UK so I am
>not particularly familiar with US makes and models. (Not to mention
>that I fire in centrigrade and get very confused when I am talking
>about 2300 degress....). So I need help of the sort that has been
>infinitely discussed in the old archives, but I'd like a few 'surrent'
>opinions.
>
>I currently fire to 1260(ish) centrigrade, which, I am informed by
>Google, is 2300F. This is about cone 9. I therefore need a good cone
>10 kiln. Although I would love to get a Paragon Viking, my electrician
>tells me that he does not want to put a 60 AMP (draw) kiln on my 100 A
>sub-breaker. The next size down all seem to be 48A +/- (on a 60A
>breaker) which he is fine with.
>
>From what I can see ( and I have looked on the old clayart archives)
>my best options (mostly because of the extra insulation) are the Skutt
>1027-3, or a ConeArt 2327. I like the idea of the extra fibre
>insulation in the ConeArt but precious little (good or bad) has been
>said about these kilns in the archives.
>
>Would someone please take pity on a confused emigre and tell me qhich
>kiln to buy (or should I just flip a coin)
>
>Robert
>
>Gainesville
>FL
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
John Fulwood
Kissimmee River Pottery
One 8th St. #11
Frenchtown, NJ. 08825
www.kissimmeeriverpottery.com
Kenneth Chin-Purcell on wed 25 apr 07
Robert,
I grew fond of firing ox to 1250-1260 C while I lived in Ireland, and
now that I've been
back in the states for several years I still fire in that range. I
fire my Skutts to Orton cone 9.
A few pieces of information I can throw your way:
1) I would pay attention to how many kilowatts the kiln draws. I'm
not sure about the
skutt 1027, but I own a 1018-3 and I can assure you it's got loads of
power to get to cone 9.
The 1018 draws 9.8 kW, so if the 1027 draws 13 kW or so you should be
fine. Your electrical
service may limit you to a smaller kiln.
2) I now mostly fire in a Skutt oval, which at 23 kW also has enough
power. After talking with
the good folks at Skutt I went ahead and added 2 inches of fiber
blanket to the top, which is held
in place by a cap I fashioned from stainless sheet metal. The cap
also keeps any fibers from
becoming airborne. This extra lid insulation really helps cut down
on heat loss when the kiln is at temp.
When I get the next rev of my website done I'll document all this on
a web page.
3) I still program my controllers (and think) in centigrade - no need
to switch to F.
My peak temp is currently 1256 C, and I hold it for 10 minutes before
doing a programmed cool
at 75 C/hr.
4) I point a small 3" fan up at the bottom of the controller box to
keep it cool while firing.
5) Unlike the UK, cone 9 oxidation is considered "too hot" by some
potters in the US.
Firing to cone 12 in a gas kiln is acceptable, but high firing in an
electric kiln for some
reason seems to stir up loads of conversation about are the kilns
built for it, safety,
energy usage, etc.
I just ignore 'em and fire the snot out of my kilns. ;-) With the
extra insulation on the lid
my Skutts seems just fine.
Feel free to contact me off list for more info.
-- Ken Chin-Purcell
ken@bungalowpottery.com
www.bungalowpottery.com
> On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 16:06:06 -0400, Robert Harris
> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I am a long time lurker but I now have a real question for everyone
>> out there.
>>
>> I am in the market for a new kiln.I recently moved from the UK so
>> I am
>> not particularly familiar with US makes and models. (Not to mention
>> that I fire in centrigrade and get very confused when I am talking
>> about 2300 degress....). So I need help of the sort that has been
>> infinitely discussed in the old archives, but I'd like a few
>> 'surrent'
>> opinions.
>>
>> I currently fire to 1260(ish) centrigrade, which, I am informed by
>> Google, is 2300F. This is about cone 9. I therefore need a good cone
>> 10 kiln. Although I would love to get a Paragon Viking, my
>> electrician
>> tells me that he does not want to put a 60 AMP (draw) kiln on my
>> 100 A
>> sub-breaker. The next size down all seem to be 48A +/- (on a 60A
>> breaker) which he is fine with.
>>
>> From what I can see ( and I have looked on the old clayart archives)
>> my best options (mostly because of the extra insulation) are the
>> Skutt
>> 1027-3, or a ConeArt 2327. I like the idea of the extra fibre
>> insulation in the ConeArt but precious little (good or bad) has been
>> said about these kilns in the archives.
>>
>> Would someone please take pity on a confused emigre and tell me qhich
>> kiln to buy (or should I just flip a coin)
>>
>> Robert
>>
>> Gainesville
>> FL
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> _____
> ____
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Fred Parker on wed 25 apr 07
Robert:
This is definitely a "for what it's worth" comment -- and it might not be
worth much -- but here goes anyway:
The only kilns I have used have been Skutts. One, a newer 1227 with
computer controller; and the other, an old 1027 with a kilnsitter. I love
them both, although they are very different. I am of the opinion that
neither is designed for ^9 firings. I am also of the opinion that a 1027-
3 is a 3-phase model, requiring 3-phase power which is very rare in a
residential setting, if that is where you plan to use it.
I do all of my firing nominally to ^6 max although I sometimes hit ^7,
mostly in the 1027. Although I believe the 1027 is sold as a ^10 kiln, my
experience has been that it would be pushing it very hard to do routine
^10 firings.
Is there a strong reason that you electric fire to ^9? Ever thought about
trying ^6?
Regards,
Fred Parker
On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 16:06:06 -0400, Robert Harris
wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I am a long time lurker but I now have a real question for everyone
>out there.
>
>I am in the market for a new kiln.I recently moved from the UK so I am
>not particularly familiar with US makes and models. (Not to mention
>that I fire in centrigrade and get very confused when I am talking
>about 2300 degress....). So I need help of the sort that has been
>infinitely discussed in the old archives, but I'd like a few 'surrent'
>opinions.
>
>I currently fire to 1260(ish) centrigrade, which, I am informed by
>Google, is 2300F. This is about cone 9. I therefore need a good cone
>10 kiln. Although I would love to get a Paragon Viking, my electrician
>tells me that he does not want to put a 60 AMP (draw) kiln on my 100 A
>sub-breaker. The next size down all seem to be 48A +/- (on a 60A
>breaker) which he is fine with.
>
>From what I can see ( and I have looked on the old clayart archives)
>my best options (mostly because of the extra insulation) are the Skutt
>1027-3, or a ConeArt 2327. I like the idea of the extra fibre
>insulation in the ConeArt but precious little (good or bad) has been
>said about these kilns in the archives.
>
>Would someone please take pity on a confused emigre and tell me qhich
>kiln to buy (or should I just flip a coin)
>
>Robert
>
>Gainesville
>FL
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
John Rodgers on wed 25 apr 07
Robert,
Contact Arnold Howard at Paragon Industries. They have a web site but
talking to Arnold can save a lot of time.
Arnold Howard - 800-876-4328
http://www.paragonweb.com
Until recently I operated four big Paragon kilns, two of which were
automatics and two which are computer controlled. I sold the automatics
but kept the computer models. The computer controlled units are cone 10.
These kilns are tops in my book, and are easy to operate. They have a
patented Lite-lid system that makes opening and closing them so easy. No
more lifting heavy lids - and a cone 10 electric definitely has a heavy
lid. The lite-lid system uses a heavy spring to counterbalance the
weight of the lid. Makes it easy to open and close.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Robert Harris wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I am a long time lurker but I now have a real question for everyone
> out there.
>
> I am in the market for a new kiln.I recently moved from the UK so I am
> not particularly familiar with US makes and models. (Not to mention
> that I fire in centrigrade and get very confused when I am talking
> about 2300 degress....). So I need help of the sort that has been
> infinitely discussed in the old archives, but I'd like a few 'surrent'
> opinions.
>
> I currently fire to 1260(ish) centrigrade, which, I am informed by
> Google, is 2300F. This is about cone 9. I therefore need a good cone
> 10 kiln. Although I would love to get a Paragon Viking, my electrician
> tells me that he does not want to put a 60 AMP (draw) kiln on my 100 A
> sub-breaker. The next size down all seem to be 48A +/- (on a 60A
> breaker) which he is fine with.
>
>> From what I can see ( and I have looked on the old clayart archives)
> my best options (mostly because of the extra insulation) are the Skutt
> 1027-3, or a ConeArt 2327. I like the idea of the extra fibre
> insulation in the ConeArt but precious little (good or bad) has been
> said about these kilns in the archives.
>
> Would someone please take pity on a confused emigre and tell me qhich
> kiln to buy (or should I just flip a coin)
>
> Robert
>
> Gainesville
> FL
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Bonnie Hellman on wed 25 apr 07
Fred,
The Skutt 1027-3 is the kiln I have. The 3 in the model number refers to 3"
thick brick, rather than the usual 2 1/2 inch brick.
You can add a wall mounted controller to your 1027-3 kiln, and I actually
ordered the 3 inch thick brick (and paid extra for it), and I ordered a wall
mounted controller because I wanted to have a kiln sitter, and be able to
fire the kiln on its own, if the controller ever failed. My kiln is about 9
years old.
I believe you can buy most Skutt kilns as either single phase or 3 phase.
Bonnie
Bonnie D. Hellman
Ouray, Colorado 81427
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Parker"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: Advice on Kilns
> Robert:
>
> This is definitely a "for what it's worth" comment -- and it might not be
> worth much -- but here goes anyway:
>
> The only kilns I have used have been Skutts. One, a newer 1227 with
> computer controller; and the other, an old 1027 with a kilnsitter. I love
> them both, although they are very different. I am of the opinion that
> neither is designed for ^9 firings. I am also of the opinion that a 1027-
> 3 is a 3-phase model, requiring 3-phase power which is very rare in a
> residential setting, if that is where you plan to use it.
>
> I do all of my firing nominally to ^6 max although I sometimes hit ^7,
> mostly in the 1027. Although I believe the 1027 is sold as a ^10 kiln, my
> experience has been that it would be pushing it very hard to do routine
> ^10 firings.
>
> Is there a strong reason that you electric fire to ^9? Ever thought about
> trying ^6?
>
> Regards,
>
> Fred Parker
>
>
> On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 16:06:06 -0400, Robert Harris
> wrote:
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>I am a long time lurker but I now have a real question for everyone
>>out there.
>>
>>I am in the market for a new kiln.I recently moved from the UK so I am
>>not particularly familiar with US makes and models. (Not to mention
>>that I fire in centrigrade and get very confused when I am talking
>>about 2300 degress....). So I need help of the sort that has been
>>infinitely discussed in the old archives, but I'd like a few 'surrent'
>>opinions.
>>
>>I currently fire to 1260(ish) centrigrade, which, I am informed by
>>Google, is 2300F. This is about cone 9. I therefore need a good cone
>>10 kiln. Although I would love to get a Paragon Viking, my electrician
>>tells me that he does not want to put a 60 AMP (draw) kiln on my 100 A
>>sub-breaker. The next size down all seem to be 48A +/- (on a 60A
>>breaker) which he is fine with.
>>
>>From what I can see ( and I have looked on the old clayart archives)
>>my best options (mostly because of the extra insulation) are the Skutt
>>1027-3, or a ConeArt 2327. I like the idea of the extra fibre
>>insulation in the ConeArt but precious little (good or bad) has been
>>said about these kilns in the archives.
>>
>>Would someone please take pity on a confused emigre and tell me qhich
>>kiln to buy (or should I just flip a coin)
>>
>>Robert
>>
>>Gainesville
>>FL
>>
>>__________________________________________________________________________
> ____
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Arnold Howard on thu 26 apr 07
From: "May Luk"
> I also have a (US-UK) kiln question. It is to do with
> controller. Is there a US controller that would read
> out Kwatt used after each firing?
The Paragon Sentry 2.0 controller gives the electrical cost
of a firing. In Options, enter the cost that you pay for
electricity in kilowatt hours. (A kilowatt-hour is 1,000
watts of electricity running for 1 hour.) You can enter the
cost in any form of currency--dollars, Euro cents, British
pence, Indian paisas, etc.
You also need to enter the kilowatts that your kiln uses.
The wattage is listed on the kiln's electrical data plate.
After the kiln fires to completion, CPLT will appear in the
display. Press 8. The firing cost will appear.
If you are considering a used kiln, look at the Sentry 2.0
keypad. If the 8 key is blank, the controller does not have
the firing cost feature.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Arnold Howard on thu 26 apr 07
From: "Kenneth Chin-Purcell"
After talking with
> the good folks at Skutt I went ahead and added 2 inches of
> fiber
> blanket to the top, which is held
> in place by a cap I fashioned from stainless sheet metal.
> 4) I point a small 3" fan up at the bottom of the
> controller box to
> keep it cool while firing.
>
Ken, these are both excellent ideas.
The new controllers give the electrical cost of a firing.
This makes it easy to experiment with energy-saving ideas
for your kiln. How much electricity will you save by placing
2" of fiber board on top of your lid? How much energy is
required to do a candling or a slow cooling?
Cooling the switch box with a fan is especially useful in
the hot summers and can make your kiln last longer.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Kenneth Chin-Purcell on thu 26 apr 07
On Apr 26, 2007, at 8:54 AM, Arnold Howard wrote:
>
> The new controllers give the electrical cost of a firing.
> This makes it easy to experiment with energy-saving ideas
> for your kiln. How much electricity will you save by placing
> 2" of fiber board on top of your lid? How much energy is
> required to do a candling or a slow cooling?
I really really wish my controller gave this info. I can make do my
checking
my studio's electric meter, but it would be much nicer and more
accurate to read it from the controller.
I think my next kiln will have to have this feature... ;-)
-- Ken C-P
May Luk on thu 26 apr 07
Hello all;
I also have a (US-UK) kiln question. It is to do with
controller. Is there a US controller that would read
out Kwatt used after each firing? I used to have a
Cambridge controller (with Pottery Craft Kiln) in the
UK. and it did just that. It was handy to figure out
how much I have to pay for electricity, especially in
a shared studio situation.
Thank you in advance and best regards
May
Kings County, NY
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