Kathy Forer on mon 23 may 11
A few pieces survived my winter bisque to cone 12 error but they are =3D
either fused with the kiln shelf or with another piece. Ideally I'd use =3D
my laser to cut them apart but it's on the fritz. Given a straight cut =3D
at an awkward angle, what's the best way to cut apart two pieces of =3D
melted but still delineated highly frangible bisque? A needle tool on =3D
dremel might work but would be very slow and irregular, I'd like =3D
something cleaner and straighter. I can toss them all but I'd still like =
=3D
to rescue what I can.=3D20
Thanks!
Kathy
www.kathyforer.com
www.foreverink.com=3D
Fredrick Paget on mon 23 may 11
See if you can find a diamond wire hand saw similar to this one at:
.
I have a saw I bought about 30 years ago that uses a very fine wire
(.008 in.) a foot long. It was made by Laser Technology INC. in
North Hollywood.Old phone number from the instruction sheet was
(213)763-7091 I think they are out of business as a cursery Google
search yielded no hits. Instead I got a lot of others using the name.
By chance I was using my saw a few days ago to cut apart a stuck
ceramic screw lid on a ceramic Kazoo, unsuccesfully, as it broke as
I tried to unscrew it after cutting it loose .
--
Fred Paget
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Shaw Pottery on mon 23 may 11
>A few pieces survived my winter bisque to cone 12 error but they are
>either fused with the kiln shelf or with another piece. Ideally I'd
>use my laser to cut them apart but it's on the fritz. Given a
>straight cut at an awkward angle, what's the best way to cut apart
>two pieces of melted but still delineated highly frangible bisque? A
>needle tool on dremel might work but would be very slow and
>irregular, I'd like something cleaner and straighter. I can toss
>them all but I'd still like to rescue what I can.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Kathy
>www.kathyforer.com
>www.foreverink.com
In our experience, you'd have to place a great value on those pieces
before spending the time and effort required. What would you do with
the damage pieces if you were successful at getting them pried apart?
Would you be able to sell them? At a profit? Or do you desire to keep
them to gaze at on a regular basis because of their beauty? Or as a
reminder of what went wrong?
Honestly, unless you want to save the shelf to reuse, you will
probably not enjoy either the pieces or enough profit from the sale
to pay yourself back for the amount of time, effort, and risk of
possible injury.
JMHO.
The wifely half of the Shaws
Rita
--
353 Jullien Drive
Orcutt, CA 93455
(805) 937-9995
http://shawpottery.com/
Kathy Forer on mon 23 may 11
On May 23, 2011, at 2:56 PM, Shaw Pottery wrote:
> In our experience, you'd have to place a great value on those pieces
> before spending the time and effort required. What would you do with
> the damage pieces if you were successful at getting them pried apart?
> Would you be able to sell them? At a profit? Or do you desire to keep
> them to gaze at on a regular basis because of their beauty? Or as a
> reminder of what went wrong?
It's likely not a cost-effective enterpirse but I like the piece. I =3D
especially like how it melted. It holds the spirit of this particular =3D
work closer than the original did and that's what counts for me.
> Honestly, unless you want to save the shelf to reuse, you will
> probably not enjoy either the pieces or enough profit from the sale
> to pay yourself back for the amount of time, effort, and risk of
> possible injury.
Injury is a concern but it's worth some effort before I give it up. I'd =3D
like to save the piece as well as the shelf.
Kathy Forer
Kathy Forer on mon 23 may 11
Fredrick Paget wrote:
> See if you can find a diamond wire hand saw similar to this one at:
> .
This looks very useful for any number of things! In this particular =3D
mishap, two of the kids' pieces fused and it's a pretty small junction, =3D
this could probably go straight through it.
Steve Mills wrote:
> This is a bit of a long shot, but have you tried pouring boiling water =
=3D
over it, followed immediately by ice cold ditto?
> I've used this to free all sorts of stuck stuff including pots =3D
"glazed" to the shelf.
That's a good suggestion. Probably worth trying on that one frozen raku =3D
pot lid paperweight as well.=3D20
Thanks!
Kathy=3D
pdp1 on mon 23 may 11
Hi Kathy,
I do not think I understand the details of whatever the condition is here
with this...but...
A regular new, sharp Hack Saw Blade will Saw low Bisque just fine ( for a
while anyway )...if needing to seperate two pieces which somehow got melded
in the Bisque Fire...unless it went far higher in temp than normal low
Bisque.
Do you have any images one could see of whatever this is you need to do?
Phil
Lv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Forer" <
Fredrick Paget wrote:
> See if you can find a diamond wire hand saw similar to this one at:
> .
This looks very useful for any number of things! In this particular mishap,
two of the kids' pieces fused and it's a pretty small junction, this could
probably go straight through it.
Steve Mills wrote:
> This is a bit of a long shot, but have you tried pouring boiling water
> over it, followed immediately by ice cold ditto?
> I've used this to free all sorts of stuck stuff including pots "glazed" t=
o
> the shelf.
That's a good suggestion. Probably worth trying on that one frozen raku pot
lid paperweight as well.
Thanks!
Kathy=3D
Kathy Forer on tue 24 may 11
Hi Phil, LV
I just want to know how to cut bisque in case it's necessary. It seems obvi=
o=3D
us now. If heat/cold shock doesn't loosen two fused pieces, then a coping o=
r=3D
hack saw, diamond blade or regular, may work.=3D20
Hammer and chisel doesn't work very well.=3D20
Kathy
On May 23, 2011, at 6:48 PM, pdp1 wrote:
> A regular new, sharp Hack Saw Blade will Saw low Bisque just fine ( for a
> while anyway )...if needing to seperate two pieces which somehow got meld=
e=3D
d
> in the Bisque Fire...unless it went far higher in temp than normal low
> Bisque.
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