Karen Shapiro on mon 15 aug 11
Hi all,
I could use some advice. I've been using clear base 70/30 gerstley borate/n=
eph.syenite to which I add grey colorant (have tried black mason stain, var=
ious grey mason stains/EZ stroke Duncan colors). It always turns a greenish=
beigy grey. I'm trying for a nice clear bluish grey (should look like tin =
but without any metallic). I use Aardvark's Sonora White clay and raku-fire=
.
Any suggestions will be MOST welcome.
thanks,
Karen
William & Susan Schran User on mon 15 aug 11
On 8/15/11 12:47 PM, "Karen Shapiro" wrote:
> I could use some advice. I've been using clear base 70/30 gerstley
> borate/neph.syenite to which I add grey colorant (have tried black mason
> stain, various grey mason stains/EZ stroke Duncan colors). It always turn=
s a
> greenish beigy grey. I'm trying for a nice clear bluish grey (should look=
like
> tin but without any metallic). I use Aardvark's Sonora White clay and
> raku-fire.
Have you tried applying grey underglaze to greenware, bisque, then apply
clear glaze?
How about grey stain added, in about 10-15%, to white slip made from the
clay body?
One or the other may give your the results you seek better than adding
stain/colorants to the glaze.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Pete Horridge on tue 16 aug 11
Hello Karen,
I also use a similar glaze and note that sometimes when I accidentally ha=
=3D
ve a=3D20
reduction firing, when taking up to temp too quickly, I get a greyish bei=
=3D
ge=3D20
overall effect. This isnt the case when I take it steady and have a 'neut=
=3D
ral'=3D20
firing.
Pete
| |
|