Lee on wed 8 feb 12
On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 1:16 PM, Carole Fox wro=
=3D
te:
>
> =3DA0But...why wouldn't the
> lotion just burn out? If it was the underglaze application at fault, why
> did it not flake off in the bisque fire?
=3DA0 =3DA0 I've mentioned=3DA0that my job during my apprenticeship was to =
sponge
the bisque before glazing. I could not use hand lotion and had to
wash my hands after eating food, especially things like potato chips.
Otherwise, I'd get in trouble for the resist marks left on the pots.
If you need something on your hands before glazing, use
glycerin. I've been using straight glycerin since Corn Husker's
Lotion became hard to get. Or, Glycerin with Rosewater from the
Middle Eastern Grocery. You can always wet the glycerin to thin it.
Glycerin will not resist. In fact, you can put it brushed glaze to
help it brush smoothly.
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Snail Scott on wed 8 feb 12
On Feb 8, 2012, at 1:16 PM, Carole Fox wrote:
> ...a student's fired
> piece had a underglaze/glaze coating which somehow did not adhere to =3D
the
> pot and you could actually peel off the glaze in chips. .. But...why =3D
wouldn't the
> lotion just burn out? If it was the underglaze application at fault, =3D
why
> did it not flake off in the bisque fire?
Greasy or dusty bisque can be the culprit, indeed.
It didn't manifest sooner because it took (IMHO)=3D20
the increased surface tension of the melting glaze=3D20
to 'pull' at the poorly adhered underglaze layer.=3D20
(Think about how many glazes try to'bead up' during=3D20
their early melt, shown in how a cracked dry glaze=3D20
layer can fail to fill in and flow, making cracks worse.)
The lotion did burn out, but the underglaze was=3D20
barely hanging on, and removing the grease layer=3D20
in between won't make the underglaze soak down=3D20
and stick to the clay at that late point in the process,=3D20
especially with a glaze pulling it the other way. A=3D20
glaze alone might melt enough to adhere and not
fall off, but not a semi-vitreous (at best) engobe like=3D20
a low-fire commercial underglaze.
-Snail
Carole Fox on wed 8 feb 12
Now here's my confusion....
I teach in a program where they use low-fire clay and commercial glaze
(Duncan). Three times now I have had it happen where a student's fired
piece had a underglaze/glaze coating which somehow did not adhere to the
pot and you could actually peel off the glaze in chips. Different colors in
each case. I think I narrowed it down to hand lotion application before
glazing. All 3 students said this was the case. But...why wouldn't the
lotion just burn out? If it was the underglaze application at fault, why
did it not flake off in the bisque fire?
????
--
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@gmail.com
www.silverfoxpottery.com
Snail Scott on thu 9 feb 12
On Feb 9, 2012, at 3:25 PM, Personal Gmail wrote:
> Hi - Curious as to whether oil would cause a problem if just using =3D
colored slip? I ask because someone told me that it makes extruded use =3D
easier if you put oil on the barrel - easier to clean up. At one studio =
=3D
this is common practice. I was told that it would just evaporate so =3D
not a problem. Anyone heard of this? In that case it was like a 3 in =3D
one oil...
Yes, oily coatings will hinder slip as well, but without=3D20
the added 'pull' of the melting glaze, might not fall=3D20
completely off. I use a silicone spray in my extruder,=3D20
and know someone who uses Pam, but by the time=3D20
the clay is through the extruder, it's not coated in a=3D20
layer of the stuff, since the extrusion is mainly pushed=3D20
from the middle of the barrel and the stuff from the=3D20
edges gets pretty mixed up when it actually gets forced=3D20
through the die. There's no surface layer of oil to speak=3D20
of. Evaporate? No, it's oil. But just because it ends up on=3D20
the outer layer of the clay in the barrel, doesn't mean that=3D20
it ends up on the outer layer of the extrusion! So, no worries.
-Snail
Rogier Donker on thu 9 feb 12
Hey Carole,
Be confused no longer: So the hand lotion on the
handss is absorbed by the bisqueware during handling of same - most of
the time you can't see it. Glaze is applied but does not really adhere
to the surface that has lotion on/in it. Firing - glaze shrinks and
peels away from the surface BEFORE the lotion burns out, but by that
time it is too late and the damage is done. With the lotion now gone
you COULD reglaze, but it is usually not worth the effort...
Hope this helps.
Rogier
P.S. See us on the web at http://www.donkerstudio.org
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on thu 9 feb 12
Hi Rogier, all...
Sounds like one could just use Hand Lotion then in lieu of 'Wax Resist'..!
I imagine Bacon Grease applied hot, or any sort of liquid Fat, Crisco,
Butter, Margerine, Cooking Oil, etc, would also work well.
Phil
L v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rogier Donker"
> Hey Carole,
> Be confused no longer: So the hand lotion on the
> handss is absorbed by the bisqueware during handling of same - most of
> the time you can't see it. Glaze is applied but does not really adhere
> to the surface that has lotion on/in it. Firing - glaze shrinks and
> peels away from the surface BEFORE the lotion burns out, but by that
> time it is too late and the damage is done. With the lotion now gone
> you COULD reglaze, but it is usually not worth the effort...
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rogier
>
> P.S. See us on the web at http://www.donkerstudio.org
Ben Morrison on thu 9 feb 12
The only difference between those you just listed here and wax is that wax =
=3D
should seal and dry, or cool to a smooth layer which acts as a resistant ba=
=3D
rrier. Fats that don't congeal into a solid layer will smear easily and get=
=3D
all over the place. For that extremely careful person any of those might w=
=3D
ork. However I'm a clumsy potter and I glaze pots similarly to how I shoot =
=3D
clay pigeons. I aim to coat the area with an even spread of glaze, if a lit=
=3D
tle gets on the ground and misses my pot I'm alright with that. Needless to=
=3D
say I'm not very careful and would get grease all over everything. Hot wax=
=3D
is the only way to go for me because it heals quickly into an unsmearable =
=3D
layer.=3D0A=3D0A-Ben=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0A Fr=
om: "pdp1@EA=3D
RTHLINK.NET" =3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG =3D0ASen=
t: T=3D
hursday, February 9, 2012 11:20 AM=3D0ASubject: Re: hand lotion and bisque=
=3D0A=3D
=3D0AHi Rogier, all...=3D0A=3D0A=3D0ASounds like one could just use Hand L=
otion th=3D
en in lieu of 'Wax Resist'..!=3D0A=3D0AI imagine Bacon Grease applied hot, =
or a=3D
ny sort of liquid Fat, Crisco,=3D0AButter, Margerine, Cooking Oil, etc, wou=
ld=3D
also work well.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0APhil=3D0AL v=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A----- Origin=
al Message -----=3D
=3D0AFrom: "Rogier Donker"=3D0A=3D0A> Hey Carole,=3D0A>=3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =
=3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3D
=3DA0 =3DA0 Be confused no longer: So the hand lotion on the=3D0A> handss i=
s abso=3D
rbed by the bisqueware during handling of same - most of=3D0A> the time you=
c=3D
an't see it. Glaze is applied but does not really adhere=3D0A> to the surfa=
ce=3D
that has lotion on/in=3DA0 it. Firing - glaze shrinks and=3D0A> peels away=
fro=3D
m the surface BEFORE the lotion burns out, but by that=3D0A> time it is too=
l=3D
ate and the damage is done. With the lotion now gone=3D0A> you COULD reglaz=
e,=3D
but it is usually not worth the effort...=3D0A> Hope this helps.=3D0A>=3D0=
A> Rog=3D
ier=3D0A>=3D0A> P.S. See us on the web at http://www.donkerstudio.org
Personal Gmail on thu 9 feb 12
Hi - Curious as to whether oil would cause a problem if just using colored =
s=3D
lip? I ask because someone told me that it makes extruded use easier if yo=
u=3D
put oil on the barrel - easier to clean up. At one studio this is common =
p=3D
ractice. I was told that it would just evaporate so not a problem. Anyon=
e=3D
heard of this? In that case it was like a 3 in one oil.=3D20
Cheers mJ
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 8, 2012, at 8:11 PM, Snail Scott wrote:
> On Feb 8, 2012, at 1:16 PM, Carole Fox wrote:
>> ...a student's fired
>> piece had a underglaze/glaze coating which somehow did not adhere to the
>> pot and you could actually peel off the glaze in chips. .. But...why wou=
l=3D
dn't the
>> lotion just burn out? If it was the underglaze application at fault, why
>> did it not flake off in the bisque fire?
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Greasy or dusty bisque can be the culprit, indeed.
> It didn't manifest sooner because it took (IMHO)=3D20
> the increased surface tension of the melting glaze=3D20
> to 'pull' at the poorly adhered underglaze layer.=3D20
> (Think about how many glazes try to'bead up' during=3D20
> their early melt, shown in how a cracked dry glaze=3D20
> layer can fail to fill in and flow, making cracks worse.)
>=3D20
> The lotion did burn out, but the underglaze was=3D20
> barely hanging on, and removing the grease layer=3D20
> in between won't make the underglaze soak down=3D20
> and stick to the clay at that late point in the process,=3D20
> especially with a glaze pulling it the other way. A=3D20
> glaze alone might melt enough to adhere and not
> fall off, but not a semi-vitreous (at best) engobe like=3D20
> a low-fire commercial underglaze.
>=3D20
> -Snail
Bonnie Staffel on fri 10 feb 12
About using the greasy type material for wax resist, the problem with those
things is that they don't dry. You would have Crisco, bacon grease all over
your pot from handling IMO.
Bonnie
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
Gayle Bair on sat 11 feb 12
Oh Marci .....that's hilarious!!!!
I want some bacon scented tools!
How about bacon scented clay!
I'd never leave the studio!
And for our vegetarian potters how about fruit or baked chip chocolate
cookie scented items.
Bruhahahhah..... we'll make million$!!!
Gayle
Gayle Bair Pottery
gayle@claybair.com
www.claybair.com
On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 9:28 AM, marci Boskie's Mama =3D^..^=3D
wrote:
> Bonnie Staffel said:
>> Subject: Re: hand lotion and bisque
>>
>>
>> About using the greasy type material for wax resist, the problem with
>> those
>> things is that they don't dry. You would have Crisco, bacon grease all
>> over
>> your pot from handling IMO.
>>
> --------------
> yeah... but it smells like BACON !!!! LOL !....
> Whoever invents a glaze that TASTES like bacon will make MILLIONS !
> Man pots ! LOL !
>
> marci
>
marci Boskie's Mama =3D^..^=3D on sat 11 feb 12
> Bonnie Staffel said:
>Subject: Re: hand lotion and bisque
>
>About using the greasy type material for wax resist, the problem with thos=
e
>things is that they don't dry. You would have Crisco, bacon grease all ove=
r
>your pot from handling IMO.
--------------
yeah... but it smells like BACON !!!! LOL !....
Whoever invents a glaze that TASTES like bacon will make MILLIONS !
Man pots ! LOL !
marci
Greg Relaford on sun 12 feb 12
On the lotion hand print issue, has anyone tried brushing on rubbing
alcohol... Lightly... And lighting, on bisque?
On the extruder. I got a caulk gun type extruder, noticed a slight gap
around the plunger, and sleeved it with a custom cut of one of those cheap
cutting board plastic sheets. PTFE sheets would work even better. Very easy
cleanup and the flow was easier.
The large extruders could be retrofit with custom PTFE inserts and
washers... No grease needed.
On Feb 10, 2012 6:18 AM, "Snail Scott" wrote:
> On Feb 9, 2012, at 3:25 PM, Personal Gmail wrote:
> > Hi - Curious as to whether oil would cause a problem if just using
> colored slip? I ask because someone told me that it makes extruded use
> easier if you put oil on the barrel - easier to clean up. At one studio
> this is common practice. I was told that it would just evaporate so not=
a
> problem. Anyone heard of this? In that case it was like a 3 in one oil.=
..
>
>
> Yes, oily coatings will hinder slip as well, but without
> the added 'pull' of the melting glaze, might not fall
> completely off. I use a silicone spray in my extruder,
> and know someone who uses Pam, but by the time
> the clay is through the extruder, it's not coated in a
> layer of the stuff, since the extrusion is mainly pushed
> from the middle of the barrel and the stuff from the
> edges gets pretty mixed up when it actually gets forced
> through the die. There's no surface layer of oil to speak
> of. Evaporate? No, it's oil. But just because it ends up on
> the outer layer of the clay in the barrel, doesn't mean that
> it ends up on the outer layer of the extrusion! So, no worries.
>
> -Snail
>
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