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fw: studio heating advice needed

updated thu 24 dec 98

 

Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) on tue 8 dec 98



-----Original Message-----
From: Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI)
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 3:15 PM
To: 'clayart@earthlink.net'
Subject: RE: Studio heating advice needed

June---I'm assuming your garages are insulated? That's the first
step---that blue insulation sold by the slab is pretty good and you have a
choice of R-factors. Then---the old radiators work pretty well, but for
something the size of your garages you'll need more than one. DeLonghi makes
some excellent ones, they are not expensive, and I've used them for years. They
now come in two heat strengths and plug into a regular socket. Big problem with
these radiant heat things is getting that heat to circulate. Another
possibility is portable electric base boards, but the clay would probably
destroy them, although I did use a small one of those in my basement for a long
time. There are really quite a few possibilities. Go to the local large
hardware store near you and check out all the options.
Sandy

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Gordon [SMTP:clayart@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, December 07, 1998 9:16 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: Studio heating advice needed

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi June,
Honnywell makes an electric heater that resembles an old radiator but
has some kind of oil inside.Reostat and safty device for tip-over shut
off. IN CASE OF EARTHQUAKE!!!! They have two sizes I think the prices
were $40.00 and $75.00 Mike

June Perry on wed 9 dec 98

Dear Sandy:

The garage is dry walled but I don't know if it's insulated. I found out that
I can buy a garage door insulation kit for about thirty dollars.
Someone recommended a radiant heat furnace. They're a bit pricy (in the eight
hundred dollar range),but the good part is that it would heat both garages and
and it can be plugged into a regular outlet, so I don't have to deal with
permits, etc.
It was suggested that it wouldn't be a good idea to tap into the house gas
heating system because it would just weaken the heat in the house and not get
the studio/garages up to heat either; but that came from the person who wants
to sell me the furnace, so I'll check with the plumber or a local
heating/cooling company. I have almost a month to decide so I am looking at
all options.

Warm regards,
June

Tom Buck on wed 9 dec 98

A note of caution to potters who plan to insulate the walls of their
studio (ie, garage, outbuilding): the "blue insulation" is a foamed
organic resin (usually based on polystyrene aka poly-vinyl-benzene)
treated to slow down its burn rate. But it will burn (slowly) and release
dangerous fumes. A better choice for wall/ceiling insulation of kiln rooms
would glass-fibre based block (board) insulation since the material isn't
combustible. One tradename I am familiar with is "Glascote"; there
probably are other names.

Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
& snailmail: 373 East 43rd St. Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).

Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) on wed 9 dec 98

June---If you don't know whether the garage is insulated, have an expert come
out and check. Then ask if you could blow something in the walls between the
drywall and the exterior wall that will give you an R-factor equal to house
insulation. This would be a one time expense, and will cut down on your fuel
use tremendously--whatever fuel you use. With good insulation, not just on the
garage door, you might get by with something less than the radiant heat furnace.
Also, insulating the garage door won't help if the rest of the place isn't
insulated. The cold just comes through another place. You'd be surprised how a
little leak can make a big insulation job useless.

Many ways to solve the problem.
Sandy
-----Original Message-----
From: June Perry [SMTP:GURUSHAKTI@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 11:30 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: FW: Studio heating advice needed

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Dear Sandy:

The garage is dry walled but I don't know if it's insulated. I found out that
I can buy a garage door insulation kit for about thirty dollars.
Someone recommended a radiant heat furnace. They're a bit pricy (in the eight
hundred dollar range),but the good part is that it would heat both garages and
and it can be plugged into a regular outlet, so I don't have to deal with
permits, etc.
It was suggested that it wouldn't be a good idea to tap into the house gas
heating system because it would just weaken the heat in the house and not get
the studio/garages up to heat either; but that came from the person who wants
to sell me the furnace, so I'll check with the plumber or a local
heating/cooling company. I have almost a month to decide so I am looking at
all options.

Warm regards,
June

Kenneth D. Westfall on thu 17 dec 98

You should stay away from using the same heater as you to heat the house.
Most is not all states require a fire wall and a complete separation of the
house and garage heating so as not to pump CO gas into the house. If you
ever want to use the garage to park the car your asking for a death wish.
I have heard and have a friend that thinks the over head radian tube
heaters is the berrys' for heating there garage studio.
Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
R.D. #2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
pinehill@ruralnet.org
http://www.ruralnet.org/pinehillpottery

Kate Smith on sun 20 dec 98

The radiant tube systems are cheap in cost and reasonably efficient in
cost of operation as well.

Phil & Kate Smith
PotterSmiths'
White Bear Lake, MN

Dan Tarro on mon 21 dec 98

Just got back to clayart after an extended time off building my studio.
In regard to the radiant tube system, I have some estimated prices for
you if needed. If I understand it, you are talking about in floor heat.(
There is also the system that is suspended in the ceiling that is used in
warehouses that is a long 4" steel tube with a forced air gas burner on
one end and goes the length of the shop and exits at the opposing end
through a stack. Sorry but I have no info on this system to give.)

costs for a 26'x26' floor

900' Wirsbo 1/2" tube,tie down wires, two manifolds, misc. tools $865
2" waterproof foam insulation$270
Water heater $250
Circulating pump $75
Stack for Water heater $??
Gas plumbing to water heater$??
Thermostat and relay for heating system $50 est.
Concrete if it is to be installed on existing flooring.

The system does cost. The only reason that I chose to go with it is that
it helps to eliminate the dust problem. I have a row of blocks around
under my stud walls and I can just take a hose to the floor with a
squeegee and it is clean and dry. the air doesn't circulate the clay dust
every time the fan on the furnace kicks on. There are ceiling heaters
with fans that are easy to install and cheep but they do kick up dust.
Something to consider.
Dan Tarro
Oak Tree Stoneware
Ham Lake, Minnesota

On Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:37:56 EST Kate Smith writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>The radiant tube systems are cheap in cost and reasonably efficient in
>cost of operation as well.
>
>Phil & Kate Smith
>PotterSmiths'
>White Bear Lake, MN
>

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Kate Smith on wed 23 dec 98

The newer low mass radiators can be mounted on a wall or ceiling to
radiate downward. These could withstand a hosing as well as a radiant
floor.

Phil & Kate Smith
PotterSmiths'
White Bear Lake, MN