Kristin Schnelten on mon 8 apr 02
Thank you SO much to all who have sent me advice on starting out.
My basic question was: I need a LOT of hours in the studio before I'm
comfortable selling, but how to do that and still pay the bills? I got some
great advice. Most people agreed: keep my "day job", set a studio up at
home.
I'll be a 1/2-way there, $-wise, when Uncle Sam sends my refund in a couple
of weeks!
So I will begin by having someone friendly with a blowtorch fix up the
homemade used wheel that is currently in my garage. It has a warped
wheelhead that was made from a countertop (easily replaceable with a metal
wheelhead I hope), and was designed for someone 1' taller than me, so needs
some seat-moving. Then of course I will follow the advise from the archives
on cheaply settting up the rest of the studio (free buckets, scrapped
shelving, etc.)
Second agenda item: find a cheap (possibly used) electric kiln. My question
for today involves if it is feasible for me to put one in my basement.
The basement of this rented home has a wooden floor -- plywood on top of
beams which sit on dirt (odd, as this home is only 10 yrs old). Is it safe
to put a kiln on top of this, fire-wise? I assume no. If not, how could I
correct this? Could I just put a layer of cinder blocks underneath the kiln?
I also wonder about ventilation, but can save those questions for the kiln
dealer. I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with this sort of
flooring.
The plan is to work in my "home studio" as much as possible, still going to
my CC class one night a week. High-fire and many questions answered at the
CC; fun with low-fire and LOTS of practice at home.
Thanks so much again for all of your help.
- Kristin
Stuck in cubicle hell in Colorado, dreaming of a day where I will be playing
with mud every day . . . and every night.
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Kathy Maves on thu 11 apr 02
Hi Kristin,
How exciting to be so close to getting your first
kiln! I recently installed an electric kiln in my
house. I love it! I've learned so much from it that
I'd not learned from gas, salt, wood, reduction.
Yes, you can install a kiln over a wooden floor, just
find something to put under it. Cinder blocks would
would great, but they may make the kiln height
cumbersome. Most kilns come with a metal frame kiln
stand, about 6 inches high. Maybe some thinner brick?
About the ventilation system, I spent a good deal of
time figuring out how to build a homemade vent.
Eventually, I realized that I could not build one for
what I could buy one for ($280.) If you're firing and
living in the same air space ventilation needs to be
adequate.
Also, don't forget the cost of wiring it in. The
materials cost us a little under $100. We did the
wiring ourselves. With 100amp service out here, the
lights dim when I fire, and the dryer is forbiden.
There have been lots of threads about used kilns so
I'll make my two cents short. It's very difficult to
ascertain what repairs are needed on a used kiln
without a few well documented firings. Before you buy
used, calculate how much it would cost to replace all
elements, thermocouple, computer parts, and whatnots.
Add that to the price of the used kiln. Compare it to
the price of a new kiln. Still happy? Then you know
it's a good deal.
Good Luck,
Kathy
kathymaves@yahoo.com
Barronett, Wisconsin
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Anne Wellings on fri 12 apr 02
I would add my encouragement about installing a used kiln that needs work.
I was given such a kiln, an old 7 cu. foot Olympic. I am not experienced in
electrical work, but approach it the same way I've approached working on my
cars over the years. I use common sense and don't attempt anything that is
too complicated for me to understand.
While you do have to keep in mind certain dangers such as frayed wires,
melting connectors between the rings, damaged elements, using the right
circuit breaker and wiring to the kiln, etc., I have found the kiln to be a
simple enough device that I can work on it myself. (There is a lot of
electrical stuff in houses that I would never, ever attempt.)
By myself, I have replaced a circuit breaker and a 220 receptacle for the
kiln, having determined from a book that the existing wire to the
receptacle was big enough.
Then, with the kind advice of the folks at my ceramic supply house, who
even pre-cut the wires to the right lengths for me, I was able to replace
the switchblock and hardwire the rings of my kiln together to eliminate the
problem of melting connectors, plus I replaced the cord and plug. (I know
it would be safer to hardwire the kiln to the power source, but haven't
done it. I feel the plug throughout a firing to make sure it's not getting
too hot.)
Then, I replaced two elements and the wires that connect them to the
switches, using a heavy-duty crimping tool from an electrical supply house.
I have a spare switch in case one blows and know it will be a piece of cake
to replace. Plus I have done things like replace the hardware that holds up
the lid, which involves drilling into brick, etc., and moving around
various degrees of deteriorated brick in the top ring to more strategic
locations.
The kiln has fired beautifully for me, considering its age. It would be
better to have a new one, but if you can't afford it and someone gives you
one, go for it. Just make sure that, if you attempt to work on it, you've
cut the power to the kiln and you have at least one friend who knows more
than you do, just in case. Get the tools you need, take it slow and one
step at a time. If I can do it, you can.
It is likely that any used kiln you are considering buying is in better
condition than this one was when I got it.
Anne
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:42:47 -0700, Kathy Maves
wrote:
>Hi Kristin,
> How exciting to be so close to getting your first
>kiln! I recently installed an electric kiln in my
>house. I love it! I've learned so much from it that
>I'd not learned from gas, salt, wood, reduction.
> Yes, you can install a kiln over a wooden floor, just
>find something to put under it. Cinder blocks would
>would great, but they may make the kiln height
>cumbersome. Most kilns come with a metal frame kiln
>stand, about 6 inches high. Maybe some thinner brick?
> About the ventilation system, I spent a good deal of
>time figuring out how to build a homemade vent.
>Eventually, I realized that I could not build one for
>what I could buy one for ($280.) If you're firing and
>living in the same air space ventilation needs to be
>adequate.
> Also, don't forget the cost of wiring it in. The
>materials cost us a little under $100. We did the
>wiring ourselves. With 100amp service out here, the
>lights dim when I fire, and the dryer is forbiden.
> There have been lots of threads about used kilns so
>I'll make my two cents short. It's very difficult to
>ascertain what repairs are needed on a used kiln
>without a few well documented firings. Before you buy
>used, calculate how much it would cost to replace all
>elements, thermocouple, computer parts, and whatnots.
>Add that to the price of the used kiln. Compare it to
>the price of a new kiln. Still happy? Then you know
>it's a good deal.
>Good Luck,
>Kathy
>kathymaves@yahoo.com
>Barronett, Wisconsin
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
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