Linda Mosley on fri 10 may 02
To Jeremy
I think that relying on switches as a firing plan is
very inaccurate since the elements fire differently
over time, and factors such as thickness of ware and
amount of ware in the kiln will affect the speed of
heating. A much more reliable way is to buy a
pyrometer and fire according to that.
A conservative firing would be to "candle" at 50-80
degrees F. per hour up to boiling point to make sure
all moisture is out (for thick/damp work), then 150
degrees per hour to 1200, then 200 - 300 degrees per
hour until you reach cone 06. Some recommend slowing
it down for the last 100 degrees to let things even
out.
I start the firing by turning the switches up one at a
time, on the hour, starting with the bottom switch, to
make the temperature rise evenly. I also keep a log
for each firing, and by comparing logs over time, I
can refine the firing schedule to get more consistent
results.
For me, the extra time spent for well-fired work is
worth the added cost of electricity and labor.
Happy firing, Linda
=====
Linda Mosley
lindamosley@yahoo.com
ceramic instructor, St. Louis Community College - FV
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karen gringhuis on sat 11 may 02
Particularly if you are experiencing any bloating in
the final glaze firing, firing in oxidation or using
stoneware, you may wish to consider bisquing no faster
than a rise of 100 F per hour from 1000 F up to
temperature. This allows more time for organic
contaminents to burn out of the clay and alieviates
out-gassing which can cause bloating, the spots of
which can be quite small but ruinous. Orton Fdtn.
used to publish a diagram of which substances burn out
of clay at what temperatures in a firing.
=====
Karen Gringhuis
KG Pottery
Box 607 Alfred NY 14802
Personal e-mail to:
KGPottery@hotmail.com
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