Maid O'Mud on tue 19 aug 03
Hi Folks:
I've been getting a lot of mail about my baby train kiln that I have =
pictured on my homepage.
To answer all at once:
I fire to ^10, though a good low pressure system will stall the kiln at =
08....it needs a good high pressure system to run at peak. There is =
probably a way to fire in a low system - but I haven't found it yet. So =
we just stop when it stays stalled too long and start the next clear =
day. We use a pyrometer and cones to judge heat. Eyes and nose are our =
best indicators ;-)
It takes 10-20 hours to fire to ^10 depending on weather. If we start =
super early in the day (really really hard on me) and we reach ^10 mid =
day, then we can hold as long as we like for best ash deposit.=20
I use a mix of hard and soft woods split pretty thinly. I watch the =
smoke to judge stoking. There is no "timing" by clock I can give you. =
We use about a face cord per firing. Most of the wood is free - =
collected from the local rafter factory; the rest scavenaged from the =
woodlots around here. Occasionally we purchase dry wood because when it =
gets down to $40 or less per face cord, it's cost effective to purchase =
rather than "drag".
Best ash deposit is at the front, cleanest near the flue; as would be =
expected. We get good flashing throughout the entire kiln. We have =
successfully fired copper reds and rutile blues - so obviously the kiln =
gets good reduction.
Kiln was built around the size of the kiln shelves as they are the roof =
of the kiln. =20
Grate was built to spec from cold rolled 1/2" steel. It cost less than =
$80. Specs were drawn after firebox was built, so it would fit. Grate =
is about 40% above ash pit, 60% firing area.
We do not fire down, or clam up. We give a good final stoke of thicker =
wood, and shower and go to bed!
THERE ARE NO PLANS. THAT IS WHAT THE PICTURES ARE FOR.=20
The only thing I would change would be to find a way to auto stoke the =
sucker so I could sit in A/C and simply load and unload
Sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
=20
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
=20
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
psci_kw on wed 20 aug 03
>The only thing I would change would be to find a way to auto stoke the
sucker so I could sit in A/C and simply load and unload
>Sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
>Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
Sam:
Easy!
"Wanted...kiln sitter. Must be patient, willing, and able to lift logs
weighing up to ___Kg/pounds
occasionally for long hours. This is a permanent, part time, on call
position
of up to ____hours per week. Pay commensurate with experience.
Benefits include learning more about woodfiring and pottery than you ever
thought possible.
To apply, call (area code) xxx-xxxx"
John Rodgers on wed 20 aug 03
I guess I'm ignorant and dense both.
Where do you stoke that little sucker??? IE, where is the fire box? It
wasn't clear to me.
More pics would be nice.
Thanks,
Regards,
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
Maid O'Mud wrote:
>Hi Folks:
>
>I've been getting a lot of mail about my baby train kiln that I have pictured on my homepage.
>
>To answer all at once:
>
>I fire to ^10, though a good low pressure system will stall the kiln at 08....it needs a good high pressure system to run at peak. There is probably a way to fire in a low system - but I haven't found it yet. So we just stop when it stays stalled too long and start the next clear day. We use a pyrometer and cones to judge heat. Eyes and nose are our best indicators ;-)
>
>It takes 10-20 hours to fire to ^10 depending on weather. If we start super early in the day (really really hard on me) and we reach ^10 mid day, then we can hold as long as we like for best ash deposit.
>
>I use a mix of hard and soft woods split pretty thinly. I watch the smoke to judge stoking. There is no "timing" by clock I can give you. We use about a face cord per firing. Most of the wood is free - collected from the local rafter factory; the rest scavenaged from the woodlots around here. Occasionally we purchase dry wood because when it gets down to $40 or less per face cord, it's cost effective to purchase rather than "drag".
>
>Best ash deposit is at the front, cleanest near the flue; as would be expected. We get good flashing throughout the entire kiln. We have successfully fired copper reds and rutile blues - so obviously the kiln gets good reduction.
>
>Kiln was built around the size of the kiln shelves as they are the roof of the kiln.
>
>Grate was built to spec from cold rolled 1/2" steel. It cost less than $80. Specs were drawn after firebox was built, so it would fit. Grate is about 40% above ash pit, 60% firing area.
>
>We do not fire down, or clam up. We give a good final stoke of thicker wood, and shower and go to bed!
>
>THERE ARE NO PLANS. THAT IS WHAT THE PICTURES ARE FOR.
>
>The only thing I would change would be to find a way to auto stoke the sucker so I could sit in A/C and simply load and unload
>
>
>Sam - Maid O'Mud Pottery
>Melbourne, Ontario CANADA
>
>"First, the clay told me what to do.
>Then, I told the clay what to do.
>Now, we co-operate."
>sam 1994
>
>http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
| |
|
