Claire Beck on thu 5 aug 04
After several years of lurking and learning and benefiting from the =
generosity of all you Clayart gurus, I need some really good advice from =
those of you who know. I promise not to mention blue.
After more than three years of fighting with the gas company (which =
ruined my present kiln by redesigning it without authorization--too long =
a story), I have realized that I have two choices: give up clay or buy =
another kiln. Choice one is not an option; the world doesn't need my =
pots, but I do. After searching the archives for your opinions, I have =
decided on a Geil 802, which will, of course, need a shed. Having just =
read Laurie's email re: her kiln shed, I would appreciate your =
recommendations about the following.
First, I live on Lake Marion in southeast SC. We have LOTS of rain, =
thunderstoms, and the occasional errant hurricane; we have a long period =
of hot weather, but little very cold; and we have almost visible =
humidity. Would a shed very much like that described by Laurie be =
adequate in my climate? I have tentatively considered using a frame =
made of the piping used in chain-link fences, walls of corrugated tin or =
painted exterior plywood, with a slanted tin roof made in two sections, =
the rear portion of which could be removed during firing and reanchored =
for protection. I was planning to use a hinged section (back or side) =
that would allow me access to all controls, and I plan additional cover =
for the controls when they are not in use. The door is still a mystery =
to me, and I'd appreciate your suggestions. Given our winds and my =
proximity to the lake, a tarp is not feasible for either front or back. =
I also plan to pour my own slab and need to do so pretty quickly.
Now, the questions. How big should the slab be? How thick? What =
should the interior dimensions of the shed itself be? How much =
clearance do I need above the kiln, especially at the rear (I'm 5'11, so =
it _will_ be at least 6 feet tall)? How about at the sides? Will I be =
able to access the controls by using the hinged panel, or should I plan =
a removable one? Wooden walls or tin? Wooden frame or pipes? What =
haven't I thought of? Any help will be appreciated!
TIA--Claire
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
=20
Earl Brunner on fri 6 aug 04
I have this Geil kiln in a shed in my back yard. I built the shed on a
concrete slab, using steel studs and aluminum siding. I made the roof out
of corrugated galvanized steel. I hinged it at the top of the pitch and prop
one side open and up during firing. I can send you some pictures if you
want.
Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Claire Beck
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 7:43 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Advice, Please?
After several years of lurking and learning and benefiting from the
generosity of all you Clayart gurus, I need some really good advice from
those of you who know. I promise not to mention blue.
After more than three years of fighting with the gas company (which ruined
my present kiln by redesigning it without authorization--too long a story),
I have realized that I have two choices: give up clay or buy another kiln.
Choice one is not an option; the world doesn't need my pots, but I do.
After searching the archives for your opinions, I have decided on a Geil
802, which will, of course, need a shed. Having just read Laurie's email re:
her kiln shed, I would appreciate your recommendations about the following.
First, I live on Lake Marion in southeast SC. We have LOTS of rain,
thunderstoms, and the occasional errant hurricane; we have a long period of
hot weather, but little very cold; and we have almost visible humidity.
Would a shed very much like that described by Laurie be adequate in my
climate? I have tentatively considered using a frame made of the piping
used in chain-link fences, walls of corrugated tin or painted exterior
plywood, with a slanted tin roof made in two sections, the rear portion of
which could be removed during firing and reanchored for protection. I was
planning to use a hinged section (back or side) that would allow me access
to all controls, and I plan additional cover for the controls when they are
not in use. The door is still a mystery to me, and I'd appreciate your
suggestions. Given our winds and my proximity to the lake, a tarp is not
feasible for either front or back. I also plan to pour my own slab and need
to do so pretty quickly.
Now, the questions. How big should the slab be? How thick? What should
the interior dimensions of the shed itself be? How much clearance do I need
above the kiln, especially at the rear (I'm 5'11, so it _will_ be at least 6
feet tall)? How about at the sides? Will I be able to access the controls
by using the hinged panel, or should I plan a removable one? Wooden walls
or tin? Wooden frame or pipes? What haven't I thought of? Any help will
be appreciated!
TIA--Claire
Bruce Girrell on fri 6 aug 04
> How big should the slab be?
My first answer would be "the bigger, the better". A big slab allows you to
move around safely on a smooth, level surface when near the kiln.
My second answer would be "just a tad larger than the footprint of the
kiln". What you _don't_ want is a slab that provides a toe-stubbing edge a
foot or two away from the kiln. When you are in close proximity to the kiln
your attention is often focused on the load of ware in your hands, the
peephole you're about to look into, the damper position you're about to
adjust, or just about anything other than the position of your toe relative
to the edge of a piece of concrete.
> How thick?
4 inches is plenty
> What should the interior dimensions of the shed itself be?
Hard to answer. Will you be storing kiln furniture or other things nearby?
Do you need a workspace (you might want to set down that load of greenware
some place before transferring it to the kiln shelves)?
> How much clearance do I need above the kiln,
What's the roof made of and what's holding it up? If you have a metal roof
with metal supports, then you will require only minimal clearance above the
kiln (but many people like to use the top of the kiln for drying things, so
keep that in mind). But if you have a plywood roof or wooden beams
supporting the roof, then you need to leave considerably more room. And give
the heat some place to go (ridge vent or other vent) so that it does not
accumulate. Will you be inserting an OxyProbe through the roof of the kiln?
That takes some space too.
> How about at the sides?
And the back... Where are your burners? Do you need to get to them? Do you
need to brick up the ports? Where is the damper? How will you access it? Can
you get to the fuel lines to repair them if necessary? This was a problem
that I created for myself when I built our kiln shed. I left 2 1/2 feet
between the back of the kiln and the back wall thinking that it would be
plenty. It's not - not by a long shot.
> Wooden walls or tin?
With wooden walls you may want to consider placing a heat shield in front of
the walls (metal with an air space between the metal and the walls). mel has
also posted some information regarding a heat resistant paint for this sort
of application. Check the archives. Will this structure be subject to
inspections? If so, go with metal from the start.
> Wooden frame or pipes?
Pipes are difficult to attach anything to. Wood is much easier to work with
but again, if you need to pass inspections it's best not to have any sort of
flammable material in there even though it is next to impossible to ignite a
single 4 x 4, especially a pressure treated one. You may want to consider
steel studs. I used them in my kiln shed. They are more difficult to work
with than wood, but remove any questions regarding flammability.
> What haven't I thought of?
--> What about lighting and/or some power outlets (might have to grind those
shelves some day)?
--> Do you have pyrometers or an OxyProbe to mount somewhere? Where will
those be mounted? Will you be able to see them easily? Can you get to them
to change a battery when needed? Can you see and access your kiln controls
easily?
--> Imagine loading and unloading your kiln. Where will you stand? Where
will the work be placed as you transfer it to/from the kiln shelves? Can you
grab another post or shelf handily?
--> Depending on your skills and local regulations, you may need or want to
have a plumber run the fuel line from outside to your controls.
Bruce Girrell
in northern "would someone please turn up the heat?" Michigan
Laurie Kneppel on fri 6 aug 04
Hi Claire,
I will take measurements for you and try to get them to you this
weekend of what I did.
Wow, you are in a very different climate than I am. I am in the
relatively dry Central Valley in California where I can get away with
tarps for walls.
I love my Geil 802. I bought it used, but I have the owners manual.
There is a section in the manual about locating the kiln. I will get it
scanned and send that to you, too. Has all the specs for venting and I
think it even mentioned the slab, but I can't remember. You can use the
information to get a head start and get some ideas of what you need to
plan for.
The slab I poured is 3 to 4 inches thick. It's depth is the width of a
standard 2x4 plus a little more, which is what I framed the slab area
with. I made the slab slightly larger than the kiln's footprint. I put
12x12 cement pavers around the outside of the slab to walk around on
after I realized I didn't want to walk in mud. Of course I thought
about the walking around the kiln part AFTER I poured the slab. .
The soil in my area is heavy clay and is pretty stable. I think I have
a 3 foot clearance around the sides of the kiln. The back of the kiln
is 4 feet away from the back of the house, which is stucco with a nice
big blank wall behind it. and no windows nearby. The kiln is on wheels
and can be rolled a few more inches forward or backward as needed. My
dad works for the gas company and did the plumbing and gas line hook up
for me. Because of its size and having wheels, the Geil 802 is
considered a "portable gas appliance" around here. So even though it
fires pottery, it apparently has the legal status of a gas barbecue.
The controls on my Geil are pretty simple, maybe they are different in
newer models, I don't know. The main control is a valve and a pressure
gauge. There's a second valve for the front burners. It's as manual as
it gets without rubbing two sticks together, I guess. Oh, it does have
the optional pyrometer. So there is no electrical hookup to it at all.
To get a good cone 10 reduction firing out of it I have been following
the firing schedule in the manual. So far so good. I am sure I could
tweek it a bit and get even better results, but overall everything
comes out as it is supposed to. As I learn this kiln's idiosyncrasies
I'm sure the firings will get even better.
Good luck!
Laurie
Sacramento, CA
http://rockyraku.com
Potters Council, member
Sacramento Potters Group, member
wayne on fri 6 aug 04
Claire:
You may be 5-11, but do you _really_ want to bend over to load and
unload?
Find out how high the bottom of the kiln door is from the floor, and
adjust that height to at least 30 inches
(I'm also 5-11). Try it there, make sure you're comfortable with it.
(30 inches is about the height of the normal kitchen counter.)
Once you get a comfortable height, _then_ decide how high the roof
of the shed has to be, by where the top of the kiln is, plus four or
five feet (hood height, kiln gods, wiggle room etc.)
Don't overlook comfort, since it costs so little more to build what
you need, as well as what you want.
(Thanks Mel! for that pearl of wisdom)
Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Claire Beck"
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 10:43 PM
Subject: Advice, Please?
After several years of lurking and learning and benefiting from the
generosity of all you Clayart gurus, I need some really good advice
from those of you who know. I promise not to mention blue.
After more than three years of fighting with the gas company (which
ruined my present kiln by redesigning it without authorization--too
long a story), I have realized that I have two choices: give up
clay or buy another kiln. Choice one is not an option; the world
doesn't need my pots, but I do. After searching the archives for
your opinions, I have decided on a Geil 802, which will, of course,
need a shed. Having just read Laurie's email re: her kiln shed, I
would appreciate your recommendations about the following.
First, I live on Lake Marion in southeast SC. We have LOTS of rain,
thunderstoms, and the occasional errant hurricane; we have a long
period of hot weather, but little very cold; and we have almost
visible humidity. Would a shed very much like that described by
Laurie be adequate in my climate? I have tentatively considered
using a frame made of the piping used in chain-link fences, walls of
corrugated tin or painted exterior plywood, with a slanted tin roof
made in two sections, the rear portion of which could be removed
during firing and reanchored for protection. I was planning to use
a hinged section (back or side) that would allow me access to all
controls, and I plan additional cover for the controls when they are
not in use. The door is still a mystery to me, and I'd appreciate
your suggestions. Given our winds and my proximity to the lake, a
tarp is not feasible for either front or back. I also plan to pour
my own slab and need to do so pretty quickly.
Now, the questions. How big should the slab be? How thick? What
should the interior dimensions of the shed itself be? How much
clearance do I need above the kiln, especially at the rear (I'm
5'11, so it _will_ be at least 6 feet tall)? How about at the
sides? Will I be able to access the controls by using the hinged
panel, or should I plan a removable one? Wooden walls or tin?
Wooden frame or pipes? What haven't I thought of? Any help will be
appreciated!
TIA--Claire
--------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
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steve harrison on sun 8 aug 04
> I have this Geil kiln in a shed in my back yard. I built the shed on a
> concrete slab, using steel studs and aluminum siding. I made the roof
> out
> of corrugated galvanized steel. I hinged it at the top of the pitch
> and prop
> one side open and up during firing. I can send you some pictures if
> you
> want.
> Earl Brunner
Hey Earl, Have you got any copper wiring in that shed? You might be
able the to generate enough electrolysis to fire an electric kiln!
Best wishes
Steve Harrison
Hot & Sticky Pty Ltd
5 Railway Pde
Balmoral Village
NSW 2571
Australia
http://ian.currie.to/sh/Steve_Harrisons_books.html
Earl Brunner on sun 8 aug 04
Are you talking about the contact between aluminum and the steel studs?
Haven't noticed any corrosion, and it's been up for 5 years. The siding is
coated, probably paint, and the studs are galvanized, and I put the whole
thing together with aluminum pop rivets.
Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of steve harrison
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 5:01 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Advice, Please?
> I have this Geil kiln in a shed in my back yard. I built the shed on a
> concrete slab, using steel studs and aluminum siding. I made the roof
> out
> of corrugated galvanized steel. I hinged it at the top of the pitch
> and prop
> one side open and up during firing. I can send you some pictures if
> you
> want.
> Earl Brunner
Hey Earl, Have you got any copper wiring in that shed? You might be
able the to generate enough electrolysis to fire an electric kiln!
Best wishes
Steve Harrison
Hot & Sticky Pty Ltd
5 Railway Pde
Balmoral Village
NSW 2571
Australia
http://ian.currie.to/sh/Steve_Harrisons_books.html
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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