Paul B on wed 26 oct 05
I already have a simple light tent with two special bulbs made for taking
pictures and a decent digital camera, but the pictures do not come out as
great as some i have seen and i have two major web projects going on and
need great pictures fast.
I see a lot of people that have the ultra-nice pics with background that
kind of fades from one color to the next, like from black to white or even
in some cases one of the background colors is similar to the glaze and then
it fades to a lighter color - how do they do this? Do they have a special
background or is it edited on a photo-shop type program?
The bulbs i have are like the compact flourescent type but the pictures
never seem to come out as bright as i want them, but then if i add more
light i could have other problems like glare, etc.
Any advice out there on how to upgrade my little set up without spending a
lot of cash or paying someone else to do it?
thanks,
Paul
Randall Moody on wed 26 oct 05
I prefer three lights. One on top with a diffuser and two on the sides,
angled so there are no (or minimal) hot spots. The background can either be
a special gradient background or a simple roll of background paper. I
usually use Savage "Thunder Grey". To get the gradient on the paper drape i=
t
so that the paper looks like a "J" when you look at it from the side. You
can play with the angle of the paper to get it to look the way you want.
Hope this helps.
Randall
On 10/26/05, Paul B wrote:
>
>
> I see a lot of people that have the ultra-nice pics with background that
> kind of fades from one color to the next, like from black to white or eve=
n
> in some cases one of the background colors is similar to the glaze and
> then
> it fades to a lighter color - how do they do this? Do they have a special
> background or is it edited on a photo-shop type program?
> thanks,
> Paul
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Hank Murrow on wed 26 oct 05
On Oct 26, 2005, at 11:04 AM, Paul B wrote:
> I already have a simple light tent with two special bulbs made for
> taking
> pictures and a decent digital camera, but the pictures do not come out
> as
> great as some i have seen and i have two major web projects going on
> and
> need great pictures fast.
> I see a lot of people that have the ultra-nice pics with background
> that
> kind of fades from one color to the next, like from black to white or
> even
> in some cases one of the background colors is similar to the glaze and
> then
> it fades to a lighter color - how do they do this? Do they have a
> special
> background or is it edited on a photo-shop type program?
Dear Paul;
I use a sheet of formica($46.00) which I re-inforced with wooden strips
glued to each end to prevent breakage. This is stored in my rafters
until needed, when I hang it from the rafters above my studio table so
that it slopes down and then flat across the table surface. I use an
outdoor driveway light fixture($9.95) to which I fabricated a box to
hold two full-diffusion screens($3.00 each from Hollywood Lights in
Portland OR) and this fixture holds a color corrected 500watt halogen
bulb(also from Hollywood Lights @ $18.00)
> The bulbs i have are like the compact flourescent type but the pictures
> never seem to come out as bright as i want them, but then if i add more
> light i could have other problems like glare, etc.
See above. I seldom need to resort to dulling spray or other such
tricks, and never re-touch in software. You may see the results @
www.murrow.biz/hank where almost all the pics were taken with this
setup. I use a 100mm (long focal length offers less distortion) macro
lens @ f22 and 1 second exposure on Fuji RTP II asa 64, Having a
multi-resolution CD made from the roll after development so I can use
them on my PowerBook.
,
> Any advice out there on how to upgrade my little set up without
> spending a
> lot of cash or paying someone else to do it?
I feel that I have done that............... let me know if any of this
works for you.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
www.murrow.biz/hank
Debbie on wed 26 oct 05
Hi Paul,
I get that type of background effect with a 4 x 8 sheet of gray Formica. I
lay it on a table and curve the back up and forward so that it would look
rather like a strechted out "C" in profile. The 4' of the top edge is fixed
to a piece of aluminum rod to keep it ridged and so that it may be supported
at what ever height I wish (I suspend it from the ceiling). Adjusting the
lighting can give dramatic almost white foreground graduating to a black
deep background. But you can get Formica in dozens of colors.
Best Wishes, Debbie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Paul B
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 11:04 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: NEED SOME ADVICE FOR TAKING GOOD PICTURES OF POTTERY
>
>
> I already have a simple light tent with two special bulbs made for taking
> pictures and a decent digital camera, but the pictures do not come out as
> great as some i have seen and i have two major web projects going on and
> need great pictures fast.
> I see a lot of people that have the ultra-nice pics with background that
> kind of fades from one color to the next, like from black to white or even
> in some cases one of the background colors is similar to the
> glaze and then
> it fades to a lighter color - how do they do this? Do they have a special
> background or is it edited on a photo-shop type program?
> The bulbs i have are like the compact flourescent type but the pictures
> never seem to come out as bright as i want them, but then if i add more
> light i could have other problems like glare, etc.
> Any advice out there on how to upgrade my little set up without spending a
> lot of cash or paying someone else to do it?
> thanks,
> Paul
> >
Gordon Ward on wed 26 oct 05
Paul,
I have used Hank's set-up and it works great. I have also used
inexpensive halogen work-light fixtures, changing the bulbs for the
corrected ones. I have also had good results with a "tent". It is a
frame about 3 feet high which you can drape some white fabric over the
top and down each side. This allows for 2 (or more) lights, one from
the top and one from the side. A small cosmetic mirror can be used to
fill in dark spots. I have tried several shades of formica, but I like
the gray that Hank uses best. It's about the shade of a photography
"gray card". They do make gradated paper, but you have to be very
careful with it. The formica is easy to care for.
Good luck,
Gordon
On Oct 26, 2005, at 12:50 PM, Hank Murrow wrote:
> On Oct 26, 2005, at 11:04 AM, Paul B wrote:
>
>> I already have a simple light tent with two special bulbs made for
>> taking
>> pictures and a decent digital camera, but the pictures do not come out
>> as
>> great as some i have seen and i have two major web projects going on
>> and
>> need great pictures fast.
>> I see a lot of people that have the ultra-nice pics with background
>> that
>> kind of fades from one color to the next, like from black to white or
>> even
>> in some cases one of the background colors is similar to the glaze and
>> then
>> it fades to a lighter color - how do they do this? Do they have a
>> special
>> background or is it edited on a photo-shop type program?
>
> Dear Paul;
>
> I use a sheet of formica($46.00) which I re-inforced with wooden strips
> glued to each end to prevent breakage. This is stored in my rafters
> until needed, when I hang it from the rafters above my studio table so
> that it slopes down and then flat across the table surface. I use an
> outdoor driveway light fixture($9.95) to which I fabricated a box to
> hold two full-diffusion screens($3.00 each from Hollywood Lights in
> Portland OR) and this fixture holds a color corrected 500watt halogen
> bulb(also from Hollywood Lights @ $18.00)
>
>> The bulbs i have are like the compact flourescent type but the
>> pictures
>> never seem to come out as bright as i want them, but then if i add
>> more
>> light i could have other problems like glare, etc.
>
> See above. I seldom need to resort to dulling spray or other such
> tricks, and never re-touch in software. You may see the results @
> www.murrow.biz/hank where almost all the pics were taken with this
> setup. I use a 100mm (long focal length offers less distortion) macro
> lens @ f22 and 1 second exposure on Fuji RTP II asa 64, Having a
> multi-resolution CD made from the roll after development so I can use
> them on my PowerBook.
> ,
>> Any advice out there on how to upgrade my little set up without
>> spending a
>> lot of cash or paying someone else to do it?
>
> I feel that I have done that............... let me know if any of this
> works for you.
>
> Cheers, Hank in Eugene
> www.murrow.biz/hank
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Kathi LeSueur on thu 27 oct 05
Jennifer Boyer wrote:
>
>
> Lighting: You have that covered, using compact flourescents and digital
> camera.>>>
Flourescents will cause a color shift in the glazes unless they are
color corrected.
Kathi
Jennifer Boyer on thu 27 oct 05
Background: Varitone paper. Here's what I found from a Google search.
I've bought it from Porter's Photographic Supply but these prices look
similar:
http://www.phototechinc.com/graduate.htm
Lighting: You have that covered, using compact flourescents and digital
camera. You need a good tent. I tried making these myself but the one I
bought has solved every problem:
http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/ezlite.html
The 30 inch one is good
I have one from another manufacturer that is 36". I can photograph a
lamp with shade in that one.
You may want to have some mylar sheets around to tape over parts of the
front opening if you need to shine some lights from the front. You
drape the background paper inside the cube.
These folks also sell some BIG compact florescents. They have great
customer service.
Jennifer, who has learned all this the hard way.
On Oct 26, 2005, at 5:43 PM, Gordon Ward wrote:
>> On Oct 26, 2005, at 11:04 AM, Paul B wrote:
>>
>>> I already have a simple light tent with two special bulbs made for
>>> taking
>>> pictures and a decent digital camera, but the pictures do not come
>>> out
>>> as
>>> great as some i have seen and i have two major web projects going on
>>> and
>>> need great pictures fast.
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
Windancer Studio: Teresa Testa on thu 27 oct 05
Hi Paul,
I know exactly what you mean about the gradation in tone in the background. I went to www.amvona.com and bought a veritone background for about $54.00, + $15.00 S&H. They come in all different colors. It is like a large plastic sheet that starts with the soild color at the top and then fades to white at the bottom. I also take my pictures outside at dawn, the quality of the light is fantastic at that time. I am not a professional photogragher by any means, but I have gotten some excellent results. If you would like to see some pictures, I can email you privately.
Teresa Testa
Windancer Studio
Las Vegas, NV
www.windancerstudio.com
I already have a simple light tent with two special bulbs made for taking
pictures and a decent digital camera, but the pictures do not come out as
great as some i have seen and i have two major web projects going on and
need great pictures fast.
I see a lot of people that have the ultra-nice pics with background that
kind of fades from one color to the next, like from black to white or even
in some cases one of the background colors is similar to the glaze and then
it fades to a lighter color - how do they do this? Do they have a special
background or is it edited on a photo-shop type program?
The bulbs i have are like the compact flourescent type but the pictures
never seem to come out as bright as i want them, but then if i add more
light i could have other problems like glare, etc.
Any advice out there on how to upgrade my little set up without spending a
lot of cash or paying someone else to do it?
thanks,
Paul
Jennifer Boyer on fri 28 oct 05
What you need (in my experience) to match the default daylight setting
of a digital camera are "full spectrum" florescents. I have a set of
the 4 foot bulbs in an overhead shop light as well as some full
spectrum floods I got from Tabletop Studios. Glad to hear there are
some cheaper options. These are not grow light type pink ones. And
Veriliux don't work for me either. Too warm.
Jennifer
On Oct 27, 2005, at 9:50 PM, Kathi LeSueur wrote:
> Jennifer Boyer wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Lighting: You have that covered, using compact flourescents and
>> digital
>> camera.>>>
>
>
> Flourescents will cause a color shift in the glazes unless they are
> color corrected.
>
> Kathi
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
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